Another No Start Question
#1
Racer
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Another No Start Question
Hello All;
I have been chasing a no start problem with my 83S 5spd. Was driving down the highway a month ago and as with others "it just cut off". Have been reading all the "no start" post so have done many test and changed out the coil, green wire, relays, cleaned grounds, checked for fuel (35psi at the rail) and spark (timing light) and others. Have not pulled the CE yet. Checked the FI relay position on the CE panel again last night. Made a Y jumper to the 30 and 87's - no start. Decided to check the voltage which brings my question: at 30 and the 87 (labeled 4) on the panel I got 12.83v, but at 30 and 87 (labeled 5) on the panel I only got 5.05v. Both with the ignition switch off. Didnot think to test with the ign. on. Is this a normal situation to have this difference in volts between the 87s or should they read the same? Does 87-5 go full 12v with the ign on only or represent a significant voltage drop and potentially my problem? Should I test both now with the ign in the on position? BTW I have 11.13v at each of the injectors and have cleaned the passenger side grounds.
Thanks for replys in advance!
Tony D.
I have been chasing a no start problem with my 83S 5spd. Was driving down the highway a month ago and as with others "it just cut off". Have been reading all the "no start" post so have done many test and changed out the coil, green wire, relays, cleaned grounds, checked for fuel (35psi at the rail) and spark (timing light) and others. Have not pulled the CE yet. Checked the FI relay position on the CE panel again last night. Made a Y jumper to the 30 and 87's - no start. Decided to check the voltage which brings my question: at 30 and the 87 (labeled 4) on the panel I got 12.83v, but at 30 and 87 (labeled 5) on the panel I only got 5.05v. Both with the ignition switch off. Didnot think to test with the ign. on. Is this a normal situation to have this difference in volts between the 87s or should they read the same? Does 87-5 go full 12v with the ign on only or represent a significant voltage drop and potentially my problem? Should I test both now with the ign in the on position? BTW I have 11.13v at each of the injectors and have cleaned the passenger side grounds.
Thanks for replys in advance!
Tony D.
#2
Rennlist Member
Could be a bad ignition switch. Happened to me driving, suddenly it cut off. Letting the car sit and "cool down" would allow it to start again, but it got progressively worse until it simply would not start.
#3
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Voltage sounds suspect.
What do you mean by "labeled 4" and "labeled 5"?
Make some more measurements systematically, epecially across all the key relays, without ign switch in on position.
Be ready to pull the panel no matter what you find, whether or not you decide to change the ignition switch. Take this opportunity to ensure no wire-frying on the panel, either as a cause or result of whatever issue is at the root.
What is status of your 83 car's alarm system?
Bypassed?
Still original?
What do you mean by "labeled 4" and "labeled 5"?
Make some more measurements systematically, epecially across all the key relays, without ign switch in on position.
Be ready to pull the panel no matter what you find, whether or not you decide to change the ignition switch. Take this opportunity to ensure no wire-frying on the panel, either as a cause or result of whatever issue is at the root.
What is status of your 83 car's alarm system?
Bypassed?
Still original?
#5
Racer
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Voltage sounds suspect.
What do you mean by "labeled 4" and "labeled 5"?
Make some more measurements systematically, epecially across all the key relays, without ign switch in on position.
Be ready to pull the panel no matter what you find, whether or not you decide to change the ignition switch. Take this opportunity to ensure no wire-frying on the panel, either as a cause or result of whatever issue is at the root.
What is status of your 83 car's alarm system?
Bypassed?
Still original?
What do you mean by "labeled 4" and "labeled 5"?
Make some more measurements systematically, epecially across all the key relays, without ign switch in on position.
Be ready to pull the panel no matter what you find, whether or not you decide to change the ignition switch. Take this opportunity to ensure no wire-frying on the panel, either as a cause or result of whatever issue is at the root.
What is status of your 83 car's alarm system?
Bypassed?
Still original?
What is status of your 83 car's alarm system? Bypassed?
Still original?[/QUOTE]Took it out after the no start problem. No problem with it before no start.
#6
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#9
Under the Lift
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30 is battery and should always supply 12V or thereabouts no matter which 87 output it is bridged to or to ground, ignition on or off. Wally was commenting that if you check 87 vs ground there should be no voltage.
#10
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Bump. Met Tony and his lovely bride last night. Great people, but Tony is still trying to figure this one out.
He has replaced the L-jet brain, the ign switch and relays. In fact he has tried alot...
Any thoughts?
He has replaced the L-jet brain, the ign switch and relays. In fact he has tried alot...
Any thoughts?
Last edited by robot808; 05-11-2012 at 02:33 PM.
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#13
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Another No Start Question - Solved
Problem FINALLY solved, torn tooth on cam timing belt. New Gates belt, set timing, started right up! Could not see the tree thru the forest!
Thanks to All for your help!
Thanks to All for your help!