Greggles

Greetings
I’m looking for a little virtual troubleshooting assistance

Problem
Car won’t start. Was running fine prior to the no-start

What is known

• Engine cranks
• TB turns
• There is no spark based on spark light tester
• The injectors are not firing based on noid light
• Coils, Wires have less then 5k
• There are no clicking injectors
• Tach bounces when trying to start
• Fuel pump runs -no start even when jumpered
  

What I have done

• Checked and Cleaned Grounds
• Replaced all ignition / fuel pump relays
• Checked voltage at the Ignition Control 25 / 12
• Checked connection to all harnesses
• Replaced battery
• Fuel Filter has just been changed

My next step is ordering a new (to me) EZK control unit.
Any suggestions for me prior to placing the order

Thanks

FLYVMO

Greggles: I have an ignition (EZK) box from my '86 that I believe will work in your car. You may want to double check, but I could lend it to you for troubleshooting. That way you don't waste your money buying something you may not need. I also have a fully functional (2 actually) LH computer for the '85 and '86, if you need to troubleshoot those.

FLYVMO

Did you do any work on the car after it ran last but before you tried to start it last?

Landseer

A couple.

Lock and unlock doors, in event your alarm system is interrupting ignition.
(It can be bypassed if need-be)

Check positive wire (small) on battery terminal for corrosion.

Also, with key in on position, and ignition relay 16 removed, check voltage on each pin (the female receptcacles to the pins) to ground, looking for low voltage on the circuit that operates the electromagnet that pulls-in the relay.

You might want to jumper 30 to 87 on that relay, with and without jumpering fuel pump relay and try to start it.

I've had dirty groundwire, and others have reported decayed groundwire, on passenger side under motor linking motor to body as a cause. And missing grounds, coil mounts to engine, as presumed causes. I've also had bad valley groundwire cause it. And a short/melt in the CE panel to cause low voltage on these relays. Others have reported a bad ignition switch as the voltage robbing culprit.

Any gas smell at exhaust? Once you do some/all of above suggestions, you might try some start attempts with foot all the way on floor, in the event that the car is now in a flood condition.

And Go Vols!.

Lizard928

jumper the relays instead of replacing them.

It sounds to me like there is no juice getting to them.

Shark Attack

here ya go
http://electronikrepair.com/page6.html

Greggles

Thanks for all the quick responses

Landseer
I have not tried the locking and unlocking and I will check the other conditions.

Flyvmo
No work was done between the last run and the no start
Thanks for the offer!

Unfortunately I won't be back home until Friday

VehiGAZ

My money is on a fried LH, although someone else recently had a fried EZk causing similar symptoms.

Any smell of gas when you try to start it?

antsmands

Hello Greggles;

I have the exact same problem and have done all you have done including replacing the coil. Was not it. Go for the green cable from the distributor to the ignition box before replacing the box. That what I am gonna replace next. Hopefully tomorrow. Will let you know if she starts.

Landseer

Well, his is a 32V car that uses a crankcase position sensor instead of a green wire to "locate" the rotating parts on behalf of the electronic engine management system.

That said, we've seen an 87 S4 here in Richmond suffering from intermittent run and sometimes complete non-starts. Its tach needle bounced, too, like his. So we never really went after the CPS as the cause. People said if the tach bounces, can't be the CPS.

Well, the CPS was sensing the flywheel position just fine.

But, the connector boot on the other end of the CPS was hiding bared wires. Depending on temperature, humidity and how the motor moved on its mounts, I guess, it would sometimes diminish the sensor signal.

To give you an idea, we got the car running well cleaning the valley ground. Oh, and it had a terrible case of corroision in the coil wire as it entered the coil. We drove it, ran good, and stopped for gas. Never restarted at the gas station. Had to walk back to the house.

So add CPS connector and coil wire corrosion to the list! Others have reported no starts for both reasons.

And that deeply hidden pair of rear valley grounds must be clean, including where they fit into the ring terminals.

John Speake

Inspect CPS connections. Borrow the EZ-F unti offered. Double check that the spark from each coil is regular timing.

EZ-F can develop a fault where they can't sychronise to the CPS, so the spark is just random timing.

antsmands

OOPS, did not pay attention to the year. Thanks for pointing it out.

Landseer

Well, you were I think on a good path with that greenwire suggestion.

Greggles

Update - The car is running again!!!
I wanted to thank everyone for their help, especially FLYVMO down in Florida.
He sent me a LH unit, a set of ignition amplifiers for testing and some good advice.
Big Thank you!!!
In the attempt to restart the car I used FLYVMO’s parts, and bought a known good EKZ unit. None of which worked. Digging deeper I replaced the crank sensor.
After 4+ months of sitting in the garage the car fired back to life today. My wife was delighted , as she had grown to believe that the car would never move again.
Something I did notice is the fuel pump is hissing. Maybe the cover normally dampens the noise?
Let me get back to putting the car together and that hiss..
Happy Halloween!

fraggle

Is it a hiss or a loud buzz?

It's always great to hear em fire up again after downtime!