CJs 928

Hi all, I recently started an intake refresh project and while trying to remove the passenger side valve cover oil seperator (92810731302), I cracked it. The crack is a 1/2 inch hairline at the bottom going upwards. Does it matter? Can I jbweld it. Anyone ever deal with this. I am seeing that the part is NLA.

Thank you for any input.
Chris
87 S4 Auto.

ptuomov

Wreckers have used ones for 27 bucks a piece.

CJs 928

Tuomo, Thank you for the reply. I did end up finding the part in 2 places for approx the amount you quoted.

The thing of it is (I expect to get blasted for this), it that this car has nickled and dimed me to death for the past 2 years (ask Roger) and I refuse to replace something if I don't have to. $27 plus shipping=$40, leaves me with 2 less cases of beer. All joking aside, I have searched around the site about this thing (which I call the air oil seperator) and normally come across another device with the same name, but also called a catch can. Can I just stop drill it or cut it out. I did see a post from Tony (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...separator.html) that shows him cutting the side for ease of install. Is it Ok to do it or just cut the entire bottom of it, or hell, just leave it and press on.

I have attached a picture that shows the crack on my plastic piece. It is kind of hard to see and it does go all the way through. It is approx 1" long...

Thank you for all assistance.
Chris

87 S4 Auto

Jim M.

Stop drilling it will help reduce the spreading of the crack. JB weld may also increase the strength of the plastic part to keep it from getting worse. BUT, what if it does fail any way? The worst possible outcome is the piece will disintregate (from engine vibration) and parts will get caught between/under the cam shafts. Is the possibility of loosing a camshaft and possibly the engine worth a $40 part? Not to me! If you wanted to try it my choice would be to do both the stop drill and the JB weld. But the part would need to be very clean to make sure the JB weld had good adhesion.

CJs 928

Jim, you are totally right and I definetly don't want to JB weld it, though, I do like Tony's idea. Not only was it a PITA to remove the valve cover, but it would also solve the crack problem. On the other side, replacing it is this best option. I was just wondering if anyone else had this happen and came up with a no risk solution. Thank you for the reply Jim.

CJs 928

Any issue to expect if I cut the cracked part out?

ptuomov

If you got the valve covers off, why not put four separators in and then vent blowby gas out from all four cam cover ports? I understand this will cost you at least $200 with hoses and all, but I'd still do it.

Jim M.

Cutting the cracked part out is probably the best solution. It will make the tube 1" shorter and reduce the effectiveness of the oil seperator but so what. If you choose to do that you can do another mod I did to my GTS. I got some aluminum screen (expanded metal) used for gutter covers from Home Depot. Cut it to the length of the now shortened seperator and roll it tight so it just fits into the seperator. Safety wire it in the seperator and re-install. The expanded metal increases the contact area of the seperator and in my case greatly reduced the oil injestion problem in all GTS's.

CJs 928

Jim, do you have a pic or two of your mod? Cutting the 1" crack out all around is definetly doable, but I was looking at doing what Tony did (last post on the post I marked above. He just cut a 1/4" slit. You can probably guess that I really don't know what this thing does. If cutting the whole thing down or cutting the slit will cause me problems then I will stop beating the dead horse.

Tuomo, thank you for the idea. I do have the driver side cover back on already. To be honest, I hesitate at spending more on this car. I have sunk about $2K into it already and have driven it about 2 miles since ownership. Not a pitty party-just worried that I will have messed something up during this intake refresh and don't want to toss more cash down the tube. If the car does work after by grabbers have had my way with it, I will definetly put more money in it to make it better (to include your idea).

BTW, if anyone has a used one for cheap-I am willing. I live in East NC and will also be in Fort Walton Beach, FL area this week (tomorrow thru Sat). Also, sheered one of those short pan head $30 bolts off while installing the driver side cover; used one of those also would be cool too.

Thank you again for your insights/solutions.
Chris

Jim M.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures of mine, but what Tony did is the same thing. The plastic cannister is designed to make contact with the oil saturated crankcase air and help remove the oil. As the air/oil makes contact with the tube the oil becomes attached to the tube and drips back down into the head. By adding the copper pot scrubber that Tony used your increasing the contact area to capture the oil. I used the aluminum expanded metal to do the same thing. Below is a pic of some heavy duty expanded metal that Louie Ott used to do the same thing. Looking through the expanded metal you can see the copper scrubbing pad. I chose the aluminum expanded metal because I was concerned about the copper scrub pads coming apart and depositing copper throughout my engine. Plus the expanded metal allows more air to pass thru.

CJs 928

Jim, neat idea. I would also be worried about the copper falling into the engine (this coming from the guy who was going to stop drill his issue . Thank you for the picture.

I just spent an hour at lowes dreaming up a replacement solution. What about a red bull can cut to size? I know I am reaching-I will be looking through the pantry this evening-maybe the tomato paste can fits the dimensions-hmmmmm (and it will smell good when warm).

Jim M.

Just cutting the 1" off and adding the expanded metal screen will make it more effective than the original. Don't try any pantry cans, it's just a accident waiting to happen.