Devek sway bar ripped body mount off
07-25-2010, 02:30 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Devek sway bar ripped body mount off
90 GT 32mm front sway bar tore a big chunk of metal off body/bushing mount, passenger side. It took 4-5" of metal with it, appears to be two pieces.
What's the prognosis (ability to repair/replace affected parts, abliity to do so without removing ridiculous amounts of other stuff)? Should I assume that the shock mount where the drop link attaches is also weakened and replace the knuckle, too? Anyone have specific reinforcement advice to be applied to both sides once repaired? I can't find a diagram in the PET to clarify, and I don't want to jack the car up too far with the asymmetric tension on the body.
I believe this happened on this car back two owners ago (the owner who installed the sway bar, headers, etc.). The mounting point was reinforced but that just moved the stress up the metal to another point. My driveway is sloped at the street, although no more so than most, and I make a left turn to get into it, so I suppose just doing that every time I drove it probably strained things (should've been getting straight before pulling in, not going onto that at an angle).
What's the prognosis (ability to repair/replace affected parts, abliity to do so without removing ridiculous amounts of other stuff)? Should I assume that the shock mount where the drop link attaches is also weakened and replace the knuckle, too? Anyone have specific reinforcement advice to be applied to both sides once repaired? I can't find a diagram in the PET to clarify, and I don't want to jack the car up too far with the asymmetric tension on the body.
I believe this happened on this car back two owners ago (the owner who installed the sway bar, headers, etc.). The mounting point was reinforced but that just moved the stress up the metal to another point. My driveway is sloped at the street, although no more so than most, and I make a left turn to get into it, so I suppose just doing that every time I drove it probably strained things (should've been getting straight before pulling in, not going onto that at an angle).
07-25-2010, 03:16 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
The sway bar mount is a known weakness when fitting a stiffer bar such as the Devek design. 928 Motorsports have a nice simple solution on their website which I fitted on my 928 and have had no problems.
Unfortunately I cannot see clearly what happened from your photo and doubtless there will be a solution but when you have finished the repair it should look something like that shown on the 928 Motorpsorts website.
You can find the article here ftp://12.234.229.133/installpdf/swaybarmount.pdf
Regards
Fred R
Unfortunately I cannot see clearly what happened from your photo and doubtless there will be a solution but when you have finished the repair it should look something like that shown on the 928 Motorpsorts website.
You can find the article here ftp://12.234.229.133/installpdf/swaybarmount.pdf
Regards
Fred R
07-25-2010, 03:24 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
07-25-2010, 04:54 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Here's a pic of my reinforcement.
I don't like any of the other attempts I've seen, they all seem to have issues and yours is a good example. I'll bet that there's a little oval opening the width of the "reinforcement" strap in your chassis where the metal around the weld fatigued.
The forces should be focused inline to existing structure, not pushing in the middle of a floppy 'floor'.
I use a triangle that ties into the seam on the car, it also spreads forces out over a long distance and in a good way.
It looks like you'll need to have welding done to add a proper reinforcement and plug the oval hole which I'm guessing you have. You need a good pro welder, the chassis can be tricky. He may even use a MIG instead of TIG here.
Remember to get some primer and paint on it as soon as it welded. The chassis is zinc coated so give it a scrubbin'.
Oh, and use a wire brush to clean away undercoating, it has a way of getting into that seam.
I don't like any of the other attempts I've seen, they all seem to have issues and yours is a good example. I'll bet that there's a little oval opening the width of the "reinforcement" strap in your chassis where the metal around the weld fatigued.
The forces should be focused inline to existing structure, not pushing in the middle of a floppy 'floor'.
I use a triangle that ties into the seam on the car, it also spreads forces out over a long distance and in a good way.
It looks like you'll need to have welding done to add a proper reinforcement and plug the oval hole which I'm guessing you have. You need a good pro welder, the chassis can be tricky. He may even use a MIG instead of TIG here.
Remember to get some primer and paint on it as soon as it welded. The chassis is zinc coated so give it a scrubbin'.
Oh, and use a wire brush to clean away undercoating, it has a way of getting into that seam.
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07-26-2010, 01:43 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
yep , you need to just box in the swaybar mount, otherwise the lower bolt (there are 2, upper and lower) will just pull through the plate its welded too. I solved the problem with a slightly lower setting on the devek bar, and some luck. Ill box it in soon, and then go back to the more stiffer setting.
07-26-2010, 07:27 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The first thing I could use the group's advice on is whether jacking the car up with that only connected to one side would cause any damage like jacking it up with the cross-brace under the hood removed. I don't believe I can get far enough under to disconnect the driver's side from the bar without some lift. I need more clearance to get more insight into the failure and why the existing reinforcement was insufficient.
Yeah, I know that this isn't the first time this happened with a stiffer bar. As mentioned, this was on the car when acquired and there was already reinforcement, although, IIRC from my last visual, the reinforcement was aimed prevented the mounting bolts from ripping through rather than bracing the whole mount like 928 Motorsports' solution (as apparently was needed here).
Yeah, I know that this isn't the first time this happened with a stiffer bar. As mentioned, this was on the car when acquired and there was already reinforcement, although, IIRC from my last visual, the reinforcement was aimed prevented the mounting bolts from ripping through rather than bracing the whole mount like 928 Motorsports' solution (as apparently was needed here).
07-26-2010, 09:15 AM
#12
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You probably have no other choice than to jack it up. If I were you, I would jack the drivers side because the sway bar length from the left wheel to the left (attached) mount is shorter than the length from the right wheel, thus creating less torque on the mount. And if it breaks, you have to fix it anyway.
07-26-2010, 09:25 AM
#13
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If you can I would drive the car onto ramps then disconnect the swaybar droplinks on both sides from the swaybar. Once you've done this and made sure the swaybar can't fall down into the way of anything else the car should be safe to drive.
Due to the friction in the swaybar bushings it's difficult to say what would happen if you only disconnected one side from the droplinks and then drive the car with only one bushing connected to the car.
Couldn't think of a better way of describing the above - I
'm sure you won't be driving it with just one droplink connected.
- NB with the swaybar mounts properly connected to the car you can just remove a dropllink and drive the car without danger of damage - be wary of the strange roadholding though.
Due to the friction in the swaybar bushings it's difficult to say what would happen if you only disconnected one side from the droplinks and then drive the car with only one bushing connected to the car.
Couldn't think of a better way of describing the above - I
'm sure you won't be driving it with just one droplink connected.
- NB with the swaybar mounts properly connected to the car you can just remove a dropllink and drive the car without danger of damage - be wary of the strange roadholding though.
07-26-2010, 09:30 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
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A friends car has been broken like that for at least 4 years now and has been driving around with it like that the whole time. No problems driving or jacking it up.
07-26-2010, 03:09 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
why do you think there would be a problem? if anything, it is easier on the chassis. the cross member is a touchy one, but I was doing it for months, with no issues. they say, there is a risk of windshield stress, but just be carefull and smooth and you should be absolutely fine.
There are two types of reinforcement. a little .5 " bar across the bottom of the lower bolt, as it can just PULL out under extreme stiffenss and performance, and putting a bar across the mounting points on the subframe. that shouldnt be nesseary unless its been damaged before, like it hit a birm at the race track and weakened it. (ask me how I know) and that is a BITCH to replace, especailly on the driver side with the PS lines and headers in the way of a full clean weld shots to the frame, but mine was done to fix a destroyed mount.
BTW, guys, if the swaybar mounting area is starting to tear, just jack up the side that doesnt pull down on that side, sure, otherwise you do run the risk of more damage.
There are two types of reinforcement. a little .5 " bar across the bottom of the lower bolt, as it can just PULL out under extreme stiffenss and performance, and putting a bar across the mounting points on the subframe. that shouldnt be nesseary unless its been damaged before, like it hit a birm at the race track and weakened it. (ask me how I know) and that is a BITCH to replace, especailly on the driver side with the PS lines and headers in the way of a full clean weld shots to the frame, but mine was done to fix a destroyed mount.
BTW, guys, if the swaybar mounting area is starting to tear, just jack up the side that doesnt pull down on that side, sure, otherwise you do run the risk of more damage.
The first thing I could use the group's advice on is whether jacking the car up with that only connected to one side would cause any damage like jacking it up with the cross-brace under the hood removed. I don't believe I can get far enough under to disconnect the driver's side from the bar without some lift. I need more clearance to get more insight into the failure and why the existing reinforcement was insufficient.
Yeah, I know that this isn't the first time this happened with a stiffer bar. As mentioned, this was on the car when acquired and there was already reinforcement, although, IIRC from my last visual, the reinforcement was aimed prevented the mounting bolts from ripping through rather than bracing the whole mount like 928 Motorsports' solution (as apparently was needed here).
Yeah, I know that this isn't the first time this happened with a stiffer bar. As mentioned, this was on the car when acquired and there was already reinforcement, although, IIRC from my last visual, the reinforcement was aimed prevented the mounting bolts from ripping through rather than bracing the whole mount like 928 Motorsports' solution (as apparently was needed here).