Power steering belt removal: 1988 S4
07-18-2010, 07:37 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Power steering belt removal: 1988 S4
Okay, I have searched everywhere and can find nothing that helps me loosen the power steering pump to remove the belt. I thought I had it ready to move but it won't budge. Help please.
For some reason, I find this site difficult to use for searching. I am probably missing something obvious.
Thanks
For some reason, I find this site difficult to use for searching. I am probably missing something obvious.
Thanks
07-18-2010, 07:41 PM
#2
Team Owner
on your 88 you have to first undo the lock nut on the tensioner then unscrew the 3 mount bolts 2 of them are obvious the third bolt is under the pulley (about 1 inch) then unscrew the tensioner bolt .
the alternator belt first has to be removed
In this picture you can see the 3 bolts on the oval slides loosen each one about 2 turns then the pump will slide in the cassette
the alternator belt first has to be removed
In this picture you can see the 3 bolts on the oval slides loosen each one about 2 turns then the pump will slide in the cassette
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 07-18-2010 at 08:34 PM.
The following users liked this post:
havana928 (08-05-2020)
07-18-2010, 07:47 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
I would suggest looking at Chapter 5 of Dwayne's awesome TB/WP writeup here:
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...0Procedure.htm
Search for "CH05 Removing Power Steering Pump and Alternator"
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...0Procedure.htm
Search for "CH05 Removing Power Steering Pump and Alternator"
The following users liked this post:
havana928 (08-05-2020)
07-18-2010, 10:24 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Got it: Power stering pump is loose
It was the hidden third bolt. Thanks
The bad news is that my "noise" still exists with the belts off so it is probably a pulley or the WAWA pump. I was hopeful that it would be the air pump.
Timing belt tension is correct and the warning light works but I am too paranoid to drive it more without checking out things that could prove expensive if left unchecked. Besides, a timing belt job is quick and easy and provides peace of mind.
The bad news is that my "noise" still exists with the belts off so it is probably a pulley or the WAWA pump. I was hopeful that it would be the air pump.
Timing belt tension is correct and the warning light works but I am too paranoid to drive it more without checking out things that could prove expensive if left unchecked. Besides, a timing belt job is quick and easy and provides peace of mind.
07-18-2010, 10:27 PM
#5
Drifting
Depending on the power steering belt length, you may find the belt difficult to remove even with the pump fully relaxed in the mounting console.
I've found in this case on my 90' S4, that its easier to just remove the power steering pully by removing the three front bolts. Same for reinstallation; install belt with pully, counter holding pully by gripping both sides of belt while tightening three bolts with moderate force.
I've found in this case on my 90' S4, that its easier to just remove the power steering pully by removing the three front bolts. Same for reinstallation; install belt with pully, counter holding pully by gripping both sides of belt while tightening three bolts with moderate force.
Trending Topics
07-19-2010, 12:13 AM
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Regarding installing the power steering belt (I just did this about two hours ago as I'm wrapping up a TB/WP project, using a Porkensioner and a Ed Standke modified WP), I used this trick, which worked just great:
I'm guessing you could probably remove a belt the same way. I guess the belts can take a little abuse like that. I was a little worried about doing this, but I inspected the belt after this procedure and it didn't seem to cause any visible damage at all.
To install the PS belt on a S4, hoop the belt over the crank pulley and start it on the PS pulley in the direction of rotation. If you can get more than 1/3 of it on this way ... well done!
Then with a 27mm socket on the crank nut and slight sideways pressure on the v-belt, turn the crank to 'pop' the belt in place. Works every time - LH or RHD.
I tried to avoid this by differing belt sizes, etc; however, if that game allows you to install the belt, then there is not adequate adjuster travel to tighten it .... a 'catch 22'. Brilliant design when you look at the length of the adjuster slots when compared to 2x the V-groove depth
Then with a 27mm socket on the crank nut and slight sideways pressure on the v-belt, turn the crank to 'pop' the belt in place. Works every time - LH or RHD.
I tried to avoid this by differing belt sizes, etc; however, if that game allows you to install the belt, then there is not adequate adjuster travel to tighten it .... a 'catch 22'. Brilliant design when you look at the length of the adjuster slots when compared to 2x the V-groove depth
07-19-2010, 12:31 AM
#9
Team Owner
yep a screwdriver placed into the V pf the pulley a quarter turn of the crank and the belt pops right off
07-19-2010, 12:40 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I replaced all the belts on my '88 with a screwdriver and a bump starter attached to pin 14. No tensioning required. I would never admit that here though.
07-19-2010, 10:17 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
07-19-2010, 10:24 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas!
Posts: 3,267
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
When replacing a belt, I cut the old one and bump the new one into place. I try not to use tools any more than necessary to protect the belt itself and also the pulley groove.
Have yet to see a Porsche belt that will go on other than with the bump method, they don't seem to design enough range of adjustment to just set it into place ...
Have yet to see a Porsche belt that will go on other than with the bump method, they don't seem to design enough range of adjustment to just set it into place ...
