StratfordShark,
The pt # of the MAF is 0 280 214 001

 

If it were TBF, the starter would crank slowly when the engine was hot due to the extra drag. Is it doing that? If you never find more than 3mm preload and relieve that each time, then the chances are small that TBF is involved.

 

It could be a problem with the O2 loop circuits in the LH.... part of the imfamous "tile".

Try unplugging the O2 sensor, the LH should then default to mid O2 loop fuelling.

All the symptoms you describe are classic O2 sensor or LH failure.

 

Bill
It turns over freely while warm & I've never found more than
2.5 to 3.0 mm movement
I disconnected the MAF while it was running and it died instantly !
I "think" the MAF plug wires/connector is in fine shape.
I'll take another look at those grnd wire connections ..
Its weird how it died this time, it was ideling fine (mtr cool)
then it just shut off like the fuel had been cut or the coil wire
was pulled ?! Anyway, I like your therory regarding the
(ck value of the sensor resistance at the LH and EZK plugs when the engine is warm. An open circuit despite a good sensor would look like a cold signal)

I need a class in ( Ohm checking for Dummies 101 )
see the pic of my meter, which ohm setting do I put it on ?
Then would I put the red lead on # 13 and the blk lead to
a chassis grd ? then continue checking # 5, 19 & 18

Thanks

 

John,
I'll try the O2 unplug first, the LH failure sounds to expensive to think
about right now
As long as I have your attention here's a question for you ..
would starting the car with the battery charger in the "start mode"
be to much juice for the fragile LH wimpy brain and cause it to melt
down over time from doing this ??

 

Test resistance across the pin pairs as noted. 5 on the LH and 18 on the EZK are ground.

Test with your meter in any one of the positions in the Ω area. The 200 setting with the sound icon will beep if there is continuity.

Charge your battery - do not use the "start" position on the charger.

 

No hypothesis just covering all bases

I guess bad idling could be one of the symptoms, but would assume that the car wouldn't run well under power either.

 

I checked the ohms on the EZK & LH plugs per Bill
I measured it cold & engine fully warmed up.

1st pic is EZK plug, pins 18 & 19
2nd pic is reading with mtr cold
3rd pic is reading with mtr hot
___________________________
4th pic is LH plug, pins 5 & 13
5th pic is reading with mtr cold
6th pic is reading with mtr hot

I have not unplugged the O2 yet, I didn't want to
get to many things taken apart at the same time,
thought "we" could decide on the ECU's first if they
were the culprit then look elsewhere.

Now who wants to go first, I don't know what my
measurements indicate.

???????????????????

Thanks ..

 

Those resistance values are in the normal range. The cold ones are ~1.5K Ohms. The hot ones are ~300 Ohms.

Next.

 

Bill
What do you think of John's suggestion regarding unplugging
the O2 while the motor is running.
Where would be an easy access way to unplug it, it's hard
wired from the O2 all the way to the fuse panel, Which fuse
should I remove to disable it ??
What kind of response should I expect to see ?
Or, any other thoughts as to the cause ??
Thanks Again ..

 

Joe-

It shouldn't be hardwired all the way, though perhaps it was replaced with a universal sensor at some point that was crimped on - any non-factory-appearing crimps/connectors in the O2 sensor cable in its run across the bottom of the CE panel? There SHOULD be a black 3 pin round connector there somewhere....

I do have an LH brain that you could borrow for testing, it'd be out of the '90 GT. I could probably get the wife to take it to her office on La Paz and the 5 if you wanted to pick it up there during the day.

 

If your 90 has a wood strip below the CE panel door, remove it and you should be able to find this cable and pull apart the plug. Note the orientation of the male and female pins inside when you reseat it.

 

Yes there was a 3 prong plug right where you said it would be, I
unplugged it then tried to start it, it was very hard to start then
when it caught the idle hunted like crazy and the exhaust smelt
rich.
So I plugged it back in while it was running but it didn't make a
whole lot of difference, as the temp came up the old symptoms
came right back -- ok cold -- bad hot -- **** !! Now what ??

Should borrow Robs ECU or is there other tests I should be doing
first ? Thanks for the help on this guys, cause I'm sure in over
my head ..

 

Be careful with Rob's ECU. The main hazard it that something will happen to Rob's ECU while in your possession. But that's probably the next step.

You're in the OC with one of the best shops nearby. You've probably spent more replacing parts unnecessarily than a professional repair. My experience has been that troubleshooting remotely like this is a lot of trial and mostly error. When I've had a chance to see the car firsthand, the problem often comes clear in no time. So, if the ECU swap is not helpful, take it to Greg unless somebody has a better idea. A Hammer/Sapnner/Theo's diagnostic test would be helpful.

 

Bill,
Alright then, it seems like we've exhausted all the
possibilities except for the ECU I'll try that then take
it to Greg's. Thanks to you and all the others that have contributed
ideas up to this point.
If anyone comes up with something I haven't tried yet please
let me know.

Rob
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