tlsmith1999

Original post:
I am replacing the CV boots on a 79. They are different than the later model, and do not have the metal cap on outside end of the joint.
I am curious if you can put the metal cap on the ends?? I am hoping this would make reinstalling them a lot cleaner.

(added a few day later)
Answers:
You can use the metal end caps from later cars on the earlier models. The main advantage to using them it is a lot easier to get the half axle back on the car without getting grease everywhere while trying to get the first few bolts started.
Using the metal end caps requires only four new gaskets for the car, one per joint, whereas the original setup needed 8 gaskets.

Pagnobito

Both ends have circlips so you can clean them out easier than the later welded ones. I did the wheel hub end first so that the splined part kept the end clean when re-assembled, then did the other and installed it straight back on the car. Some grease is bound to come out the side at the gearbox end but is easy enough if you are careful and don't leave the shaft lying about for dirt to get in.

fbarnhill

I pulled mine completely and re-built them on the bench. I installed them into the wheel end first then held them up to the rear end and got one bolt in just a little. That was the hardest part of the job. I thought this was one of the nastiest jobs on the whole car. Even worse than the gas tank. That crap gets everywhere. I used gloves but by the time it was over, i had it all over me. Somehow managed to keep the car clean though. Good luck. My arms were sore by the time i got all the bolts in on the rear end side. However, once you get the first one in, you can rotate the wheel to get the rest in.

Good luck,

Erik N

Try to make sure the flanges and corresponding inside boot surfaces are completely, totally free of grease before mating them together. You want them to "stick". Then use a hose clamp to hold them together. The screw assembly of the clamp will -just- fit between the axle mounting holes. Don't clamp the smaller end of the boot, you want that to be able to slide around on the axle a bit.
If you don't take the time to do this, the boots may pop off the flanges AFTER you have them installed and drive the car- thus exposing all your hard & nasty work to the elements. And it is a GIGANTIC PITA to get them back on with the axles installed!
Ask me how I know... It took me, a lift, and 2 assistants (that's 6 hands up in the air) to get those greasy bastards back on the flanges and clamped successfully.
I think that after some use the boots relax a little and then will want to stay on better.

tlsmith1999

I have done the job on both my 78 and 89. The 78 was a mess to get back together, but on the 89 with the metal cap on the end, it was sealed up. I have two of the caps left over, and was just curious if they can be used on the older cars.

Optimator

I'd love to see an answer to your question. My BMW has driveaxles with bolted ends that are capped. It's so nice being able to remove them without making a mess or having to worry about getting dirt in the joint.

The 78-84 inner joint is 928-332-923-00. The 85-95 inner joint (with the end cap) is 928-332-923-00. What is the difference between the two? Can the cap be used on the earlier joint? Can an early driveaxle be assemled using the later inner CV joints at both ends?

tlsmith1999: you may want to re-title this thread, as it sounds like it's a thread about a routine maintenance procedure, whereas it is actually a (very interesting) technical trivia question, IMO.

AaronSweat

They should have the metal clamps on both ends. If not inspect and rebuild as needed or just replace the clamp.

Using a tip from here, I used zip ties to hold everything together as I started a few bolts. Just cut the zip ties after you start the bolts. Make sure the ends of the zip ties are on the correct side so you can slide them out. This step made the install a lot cleaner

Optimator

LOL, I don't think anyone understands what this thread is about. The question is not really about clamps or changing boots. It's about the metal cap, as seen all the way to the right, in the following photo (snagged from another thread).



The question is: Can this cap be used on an early (78-84) CV joint, even though the joint did not come with one originally?

tlsmith1999

Thank you Jon. I guess my question was clear in my head, but no so much in my post.

Last night I dry fitted the half axle back together, and it seems like you can use the metal cap on both the inner and outer joint. It fits nicely on the joints and onto the car. So I believe they will work. I am going to install them as soon as the gaskets arrive from Roger.

But that brought up another question for me. The older joints with no metal cap use two round gaskets (#3 and another between the joint (#2) and vehicle) per joint, for a total of 8 gaskets per car. The indent for the gasket is on the wheel and trans, not the joint. Now I wonder if you need a gasket between the joint and the metal cap. I don't remember using 8 on the S4, but that was over a year ago. I believe you only need four gaskets per car if you use the metal caps.

Pagnobito

Why would you use a cap on the outer joint, that is sealed by the hub spindle isn't it?

How thick are the caps, they will make the overall length of the drive shafts longer, have you checked that they are the same as the later cars, the part numbers are different for the shaft which look thicker?

tlsmith1999

Yes the hub spindle will seal the joints, but with the cap on the end installing/removing them is a lot cleaner.
The caps are pretty thin, i wouldn't think the extra few mm would make a difference.

Lizard928

The reason for the gasket is because there in nothing else to hold the grease in.

Use 1 gasket on the outter flange to the joint itself as shown in the PET image above.

The steel outter shell can be used, and you should NOT use a gasket between it and the joint.

dr bob

Just a little hint for those doing this job and using the caps either old or new style: Use a couple small zip-ties through opposite bolt holes to hold the caps on during installation. Get the other bolts started, then cut and remove the ties before starting the last two bolts. Also, the clamps on the small ends of the boots are fixed only after installation of the axle in the car.

Optimator

Tim, our dream for self-sealed, bolt-on driveaxles is incomplete as described thus far. The earlier style boot flanges are a flat-faced fit to the outer race; as soon as you remove all of the bolts, the flange is free to slide around and separate from the outer race. I think if adding the cover plate, it may also be worthwhile to use the later style boot flanges, which appear to press onto the outer race, just like the end cover (see pic above). This would also require changing the bolts to the later style 50mm-long bolts. Unfortunately, the CV boot kits that I’ve seen don’t come with a new boot flange.

BTW, PET shows the later style CV assemblies using NO gaskets.

Looking in the FSM, I didn’t see much information on rebuilding the later style CV joint. I’ve rebuilt other CV joints of this type (pressed on flanges and covers), where some sort of sealant on the covers and flanges is called for, such as Curil-T. Is there a service bulletin or something where Porsche specifies whether or not to use any sealant on these parts?

tlsmith1999

I plan to use masking tape to temporarily hold the flange and joint together until it is mounted to the car.
Here is a pic borrowed from a posting on Pelican: