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Oil leak / pan gasket?? 86.5

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Old 06-22-2010 | 05:41 PM
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rexpontius
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Default Oil leak / pan gasket?? 86.5

Now I have replaced my timing belt I took out the 928 for a longer and faster drive.

When working on the timing belt I already noticed that the oil pan was pretty wet with oil. After a fast drive, with the exhaust and catalysts nice and hot, I did smell oil burning on the exhaust when I had to stop at the lights.

Most obvious first start for me to check would be the oil pan gasket (is the original a cork version??) However as I am still pretty new to the 928 I was wondering if I shoud check other things first.

Anyone tried to replace the seal with liquid/silicone gasket maker?

The cam cover seals seem to be OK as well as the front cam seals (could check that pretty well when doing the timing belt.

Cheers
Michel
Old 06-22-2010 | 05:43 PM
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Old 06-22-2010 | 05:48 PM
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If the car has the original cam seals on the back of the engine, those are ****, and need to be replaced because they can leak heavily and dump a lot of oil down the back of the engine onto the exhaust.

Roger Tyson sells a silicon oil pan gasket which is probably going to work better than trying to use some RTV.

If you change the pan gasket, you might as well install new engine mounts at the same time. Roger also sells them.
Old 06-22-2010 | 05:54 PM
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Thans for the quick feedback.

Do not underestimate modern RTV/liquid gaskets. It is used on many modern engines and is usually problem/leak free.

But off course a gasket is more practical when removing the pan and looks better.

Will check those rear seals as well. Do the cam covers need to come off to replace them (guess so??)?

Cheers
Michel
Old 06-22-2010 | 05:55 PM
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ya rear cam seals are your culprit, but while your there you do the valve covers too.
Old 06-22-2010 | 06:00 PM
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If the rear seals are original, they won't even be seals. They'll be o-rings with a plastic cap on top. This was obviously a **** poor design, and they changed to a plug. I'm sure someone has been able to change the rear seal without removing the cam cover. I removed mine to do it. I also went ahead and removed the rear cam bearing, cleaned it, and refreshed to orange loctite when I put in the new seals.
Old 06-22-2010 | 06:01 PM
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+Dont use RTV for the pan gasket the pan has holes along the sealing surface and the RTV wont have a good sealing area to work just get a new pan gasket in silicone.
If your going to get involved in replacing the cam seals on the ends of the heads then the cam cover must first be removed then the cam end caps are removed and cleaned with a razor.
then you would use loctite 574 sealant on the cam caps so they dont ooze oil .
then a dab of honda bond at the head cap junction so the gaskets wont leak
With the cam caps loose fit the new end seals the tighten the caps
Old 06-22-2010 | 06:11 PM
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Thanks for all input.

I am already beginning to see visions of a busy weekend in the garage

cheers



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