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Need help identifying a connector and cable connection point

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Old 06-20-2010, 05:05 PM
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Ed Scherer
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Question Need help identifying a connector and cable connection point

While doing miscellaneous maintenance tasks on my '90 S4 today, I came across a couple of things I could use some help with.

Given the photo below, a few questions:
  • The connector I have labeled as "connector 'A'" is broken and the retaining clip is mangled. I think it's probably still making electrical contact, but the plastic on the top part of the connector has fractured and I'd like to inspect it and either glue it or replace it. But... what is this connector for? I tried to track the wires, but it's not easy to see where either side goes.
  • I discovered that the "engine side" of the right-side ignition coil ground cable was just hanging free. First, what is that supposed to be grounded to? Perhaps that nut that I have labeled "nut 'B'" (that's welded to what appears to be an engine-lift bracket/eye)? Second, what might the consequences be of this not being grounded? Is it just a secondary ground (I'm guessing that the bracket for the ignition coil is already well grounded to the body)?

Old 06-20-2010, 05:15 PM
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Glenn M
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Ed,
You are correct to where the coil ground should go, bolt missing. I now connect mine to the passenger side cam cover bolt. It is much easier to get to.

Also looks like an original fuel line hose.
Old 06-20-2010, 05:27 PM
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jcorenman
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Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
... The connector I have labeled as "connector 'A'" is broken and the retaining clip is mangled. I think it's probably still making electrical contact, but the plastic on the top part of the connector has fractured and I'd like to inspect it and either glue it or replace it. But... what is this connector for? I tried to track the wires, but it's not easy to see where either side goes.
Ed, I believe that connector "A" is the hall-sensor connector. The engine will start and run with it disconnected but the EZK will retard the timing 6 deg, so you will down on power.

One side goes to the engine harness, the other side to the hall sensor-- located on the backside of the pass-side cam-sprocket housing, very close to where the connector is located but well hidden.
Old 06-20-2010, 05:37 PM
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Ed Scherer
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Originally Posted by Glenn M
Ed,
You are correct to where the coil ground should go, bolt missing. I now connect mine to the passenger side cam cover bolt. It is much easier to get to.
OK, thanks. That'll be easy to fix.

Originally Posted by Glenn M
Also looks like an original fuel line hose.
Yeah, it probably is. Fuel hose replacement is on my list of things to do (not necessarily this go-around, but soon); I think I've got most of the replacement parts on hand. IIRC, one of them was NLA, but I think Roger has a suitable replacement; that one I don't have yet.

Originally Posted by jcorenman
Ed, I believe that connector "A" is the hall-sensor connector. The engine will start and run with it disconnected but the EZK will retard the timing 6 deg, so you will down on power.

One side goes to the engine harness, the other side to the hall sensor-- located on the backside of the pass-side cam-sprocket housing, very close to where the connector is located but well hidden.
Interesting... I've also been having some strange engine problems over the last few months, so I'm trying to look everything over as I do some routine maintenance.

Thanks for the info.
Old 06-20-2010, 05:40 PM
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Glenn M
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"A" is the hall sensor, won't be able to change it without taking the valve cover off. Not uncommon to break apart.
Old 06-20-2010, 06:28 PM
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borland
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On my 90' S4, the ignition strap is ground to the engine, at the engine lifting lug by the same bolt that holds the thick wiring harness strap. The ignition strap directly to the lifting lug followed by the harness strap.

The bolt is missing where your photo shows "nut B".
Old 06-20-2010, 06:48 PM
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Ed Scherer
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Originally Posted by borland
On my 90' S4, the ignition strap is ground to the engine, at the engine lifting lug by the same bolt that holds the thick wiring harness strap. The ignition strap directly to the lifting lug followed by the harness strap.

The bolt is missing where your photo shows "nut B".
Hmmm... I suspect I'm missing a cable clamp/strap for the "thick wiring hardness", too, then. I'll see if it slid down the cable...

Thanks for the additional info.
Old 06-20-2010, 07:58 PM
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Hilton
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Originally Posted by Glenn M
"A" is the hall sensor, won't be able to change it without taking the valve cover off. Not uncommon to break apart.
It is possible to change with the valve cover in-place, although you'll need to remove the engine lifting lug (can reach the M8 bolt from under the car).

If you're doing it with the cam covers in place, you will find it helpful to make a tool with a 4mm socket and cut-off long 4mm allen key.

It is *much* easier to do while the cam covers are off.
Old 06-20-2010, 10:34 PM
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mcholdfast
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Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
Hmmm... I suspect I'm missing a cable clamp/strap for the "thick wiring hardness", too, then. I'll see if it slid down the cable...

Thanks for the additional info.
That harness is pulled to the front of the engine and through the timing belt when the belt is replaced. It's a PITA to reattach it to the lift point afterwards. About half the cars I've replaced the belts on have been like this with the ground wire loose as well. (They were all reattached when I was done.) On the bright side, at least it's a sign that the belt may have been changed at some time in the past.
Old 06-20-2010, 11:15 PM
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borland
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The bolt is a M6 hex-head. The one installed on my car is too long, making it more difficult to remove when doing the timing belt job (I've removed it twice since owning the car).

The actual bolt is not specified by the PET. But it looks like a M6x16 would be just the right length, Porsche part number 900.075.057.02.
Old 06-20-2010, 11:18 PM
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the flyin' scotsman
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The broken connector is for the hall sensor. You dont need to remove the vc but remove the engine bracket. Once the sensor is replaced find a short 6mm bolt thats missing from the engine bracket and loosely attach the coil ground and harness clamp.

Re attach the engine bracket then tighten the coil grd bolt.



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