Luck runs out on 82 Euro S -need a 4.7 block?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Luck runs out on 82 Euro S -need a 4.7 block?
82 928S Euro 5spd
Looks like my luck is over- I guess I need another 4.7 block. What year would work? A bunch of little rocks where in there from when the PO was trying to get it started and not being very careful with what fell in the intakes. Only 1 cylinder damaged bad. Maybe I can reuse these pistons. Man, I am now definitely way out of my league. Where do I go from here? Gunar My project thread>https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ct-begins.html
Looks like my luck is over- I guess I need another 4.7 block. What year would work? A bunch of little rocks where in there from when the PO was trying to get it started and not being very careful with what fell in the intakes. Only 1 cylinder damaged bad. Maybe I can reuse these pistons. Man, I am now definitely way out of my league. Where do I go from here? Gunar My project thread>https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ct-begins.html
Last edited by gbgastowers; 06-22-2010 at 10:51 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
111
cleaned up looks worse.
Last edited by gbgastowers; 01-10-2011 at 02:27 AM.
#6
Team Owner
bummer that wont work
#7
Nordschleife Master
Any 4.7l block will work but the trick is matching the tolerance groups of the pistons and holes. Some 97mm pistons are more equal than others. You can get the block, see which postons of yours work and then buy a few more to fit.
A US 4.7l short block won't work directly as the pistons are different and the bigger S valves and cam require pistons with deeper notches.
Lots of other options in changing years or mixing in other parts. The cheapest way would be to get a 78-79 US 4.5 engine and lose 80 horsepower. The cheapest option for the same power is in the first paragraph.
A US 4.7l short block won't work directly as the pistons are different and the bigger S valves and cam require pistons with deeper notches.
Lots of other options in changing years or mixing in other parts. The cheapest way would be to get a 78-79 US 4.5 engine and lose 80 horsepower. The cheapest option for the same power is in the first paragraph.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I am with Brad...either sleeve that cylinder or go 5.0 Euro Hybrid if you are going to screw around with pulling a motor apart. The other option would be to find a good used engine...those come and go around here. Seems more like feast or famine on the engine front most of the time. No S4 engines for ages and then 3 good ones pop up! Go figure...that said, good Euro 4.7's are always kind of hard to find.
#9
Nordschleife Master
When we say "go for a 5.0 block" we mean get hold of an early 32V long block from an '85/'86, and re-use your existing heads, injection, wiring etc., not bore out your dud block to 5.0L.
If you do a search for "hybrid" here, you'll find plenty of threads about it - results in more power than stock 4.7, and as your car is a Euro, you've already got all the other bits needed.
If you do a search for "hybrid" here, you'll find plenty of threads about it - results in more power than stock 4.7, and as your car is a Euro, you've already got all the other bits needed.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think I might send the block to 928 Motorsports for repair. What do you think?http://www.928motorsports.com/services/uschrome.html
#12
Race Director
keep in mind it has 97mm bores...you could always bore it out to 1 or 2 sizes overbore......pricey and does require new pistons-rings...but should last a long time after that!
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I guess I will take it apart and check for damage to the pistons before I do anything. I have to take it down to the bare block anyway to send it in for repair. If the pistons are ok then I can spend the $1500 for block repair and put my internals back in with not much extra cost on top of the $1500,but if I get it bored out I'll need new pistons and no telling what all else and that could cost more than repairing the block. Any holes in this plan?
#14
Rennlist Member
Bore the damaged block out, but you will need oversized pistons. I have 6 of them, but you need 2 more. they are one size oversized.
better, do the 5 liter block, with notching the pistons.
you could do US 4.7 and just dremel the valve reliefs. (very easy)
scots 4.7L euro was damged like this, and we just bored it out to 100mm. (5 liter) it was fine and still running very strong
better, do the 5 liter block, with notching the pistons.
you could do US 4.7 and just dremel the valve reliefs. (very easy)
scots 4.7L euro was damged like this, and we just bored it out to 100mm. (5 liter) it was fine and still running very strong
#15
Nordschleife Master
Bore the damaged block out, but you will need oversized pistons. I have 6 of them, but you need 2 more. they are one size oversized.
better, do the 5 liter block, with notching the pistons.
you could do US 4.7 and just dremel the valve reliefs. (very easy)
scots 4.7L euro was damged like this, and we just bored it out to 100mm. (5 liter) it was fine and still running very strong
better, do the 5 liter block, with notching the pistons.
you could do US 4.7 and just dremel the valve reliefs. (very easy)
scots 4.7L euro was damged like this, and we just bored it out to 100mm. (5 liter) it was fine and still running very strong
A used 32v 5.0L engine would get my vote. Part out the 32V engine selling the heads, intake, GT-style cams, extra water pump, and you'd end up with a cheap 5.0L long block. Whole engine with warranty is here. You can probably find cheaper/closer from a fellow rennlister.
Add a set of 100mm rings, head gaskets, maybe some rod bearings depending on how 2/6 look in the used engine, and you're in business, with more power than a 4.7L. The only downside is numbers no longer match
Edit: According to PET, first oversize piston is 97.5mm, second is 98mm. If the groove is deeper than 0.5mm then you'll have to either sleeve or rebore to 100m.
Last edited by Hilton; 06-14-2010 at 05:52 AM.