Building a 16v stroker
#1
Thread Starter
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So i am in the process of getting the 4.7 euro set up from member BC. I am thinking of making it a stroker. my 4.5 i have now is strong and does not leak (much) from the pan, so no need to yank that out yet. BUT i want to take my time and do it right. Any suggestions? Im thinking of sending it to Greg B down in Socal to do the work. but after reading all the posts on here, i have yet to see a pattern on what i should get done etc.. Any parts lists or personal experience would be very helpful.
Duc
Duc
#2
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Many tend to agree that it's not really the most cost-effective solution.
Off the top of my head - you will at least need custom pistons as 968 ones won't work for 2v heads. After a moment of thinking, you could probably flycut the valve reliefs.
But, if you plan on overboring 4.7 to "standard" stroker 104+mm bores - it's not gonna work.
I personally have thought of the following setup:
Stroker crank + custom rods + 944 (maybe 951) pistons in a 5l (100mm) block.
But I have not researched this further, so I can't confirm that this actually will work.
Please keep us updated on the project.
Off the top of my head - you will at least need custom pistons as 968 ones won't work for 2v heads. After a moment of thinking, you could probably flycut the valve reliefs.
But, if you plan on overboring 4.7 to "standard" stroker 104+mm bores - it's not gonna work.
I personally have thought of the following setup:
Stroker crank + custom rods + 944 (maybe 951) pistons in a 5l (100mm) block.
But I have not researched this further, so I can't confirm that this actually will work.
Please keep us updated on the project.
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#4
Nordschleife Master
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Typical stroker starts with a 5.0L short block and either custom pistons and a nikasil coating of the block after boring, or use of a Porsche piston made for Alusil like the 968 or with machine work to clearance the block 944 S2 pistons and lapping the block after boring. Either choice requires custom rods, and a stroker crank. At a minimum this is going to be close to $20k, so I would be also thinking of 32v heads, big cams, and LH2.3 brains for sharktuning and knock detection.
OTOH with the parts from BC you could have a running Euro S spec motor for around $2k.
Options in the middle would include basic hot rods (porting etc) on the Euro S, a Euro hybrid (Euro S top end on 85/86 short block), increasing the stroke by offset grinding a stock crank and using smaller journals for the rods, or increasing the bore and using 968 or custom pistons.
****** I may have some bias on the middle choice since it gets the block out of my garage, but none of the other options are going to be remotely close in costs by the time its done.
OTOH with the parts from BC you could have a running Euro S spec motor for around $2k.
Options in the middle would include basic hot rods (porting etc) on the Euro S, a Euro hybrid (Euro S top end on 85/86 short block), increasing the stroke by offset grinding a stock crank and using smaller journals for the rods, or increasing the bore and using 968 or custom pistons.
****** I may have some bias on the middle choice since it gets the block out of my garage, but none of the other options are going to be remotely close in costs by the time its done.
#7
Thread Starter
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mainly i dont want to do any crazy computer stuff. i dont plan on going "all out" to make power. I just want to upgrade from the 4.5 i have now, to a better running set up. And cost is a factor as well.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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If cost is a factor, forget about a stroker. Buy a supercharger. Better yet, buy a cheap 16v car that already has a supercharger and swap the whole engine unit. These cars seem to be worth more dead than alive. So what's the budget?
#11
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Duc,
That's what I wanted to do to the 79 before I got the GTS. I had a 4.7 Euro motor that was going to be the basis. Contemplated either just a 5.0 hybrid, or stroking the 4.7 to a 5.7. Also wondered about building a 5.4 out of a 5.0 but could never really get a straight answer about how big of a motor the CIS would handle. The goal was to be able to open the hood and see a "stock" 79 motor with CIS. No blower, no computer controlled slapped together aftermarket setup, just a larger version of a 4.5 CIS motor that no one could idendify from the engine bay. (Same concept as the early Mustang guys are doing-I.E. instead of a 289 smallblock ford, make it a 347)
Unfortunately, my aspirations are greater than the time I've got to devote to it. I gave up the Euro motor to Brad Webster here in DFW, so I guess I'll live vicariously through him! He's got the time available to throw at the motor and it's almost ready (in stock, but rebuilt form) to throw in to his competition package car.
I don't think you need to go to the extreme (just my opinion) like some of the other 32v guys have gone. I think there are plenty out there that might tell you the 5.0 hybrids are hot enough and fun for sure!!
In that relatively light body (vs the S4's and newer) you can have a blast without having to try to do a 6.5 ltre monster!!
Good luck w the project, sounds like a blast!!
That's what I wanted to do to the 79 before I got the GTS. I had a 4.7 Euro motor that was going to be the basis. Contemplated either just a 5.0 hybrid, or stroking the 4.7 to a 5.7. Also wondered about building a 5.4 out of a 5.0 but could never really get a straight answer about how big of a motor the CIS would handle. The goal was to be able to open the hood and see a "stock" 79 motor with CIS. No blower, no computer controlled slapped together aftermarket setup, just a larger version of a 4.5 CIS motor that no one could idendify from the engine bay. (Same concept as the early Mustang guys are doing-I.E. instead of a 289 smallblock ford, make it a 347)
Unfortunately, my aspirations are greater than the time I've got to devote to it. I gave up the Euro motor to Brad Webster here in DFW, so I guess I'll live vicariously through him! He's got the time available to throw at the motor and it's almost ready (in stock, but rebuilt form) to throw in to his competition package car.
I don't think you need to go to the extreme (just my opinion) like some of the other 32v guys have gone. I think there are plenty out there that might tell you the 5.0 hybrids are hot enough and fun for sure!!
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Good luck w the project, sounds like a blast!!
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
#12
Nordschleife Master
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With that budget, you should forget about the stroker. Better intake manifold, bigger valves and head porting, new hotter cams, surfacing the head for more compression, headers, and new exhaust are very hard to fit in a $5k budget without a new crankshaft.
#13
Drifting
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The ultimate, imo, is to have the stock spider look of the engine (best looking modern intake) with the most N/A power possible thru internal work and keep the 2 valve because it sounds better.
Greg - what a long strange trip it's been.
Greg - what a long strange trip it's been.
#14
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Here is what I was going to do with this stuff. That does not mean you must, or will, or that you should buy my stuff so I have a cleared engine cart for other stuff I need room for.
I was going to disassemble and clean the engine block resize the rods properly, rebush, coat the piston skirts. Essentially prepare a stock block but A+ on the best practices to make it robust and properly rebuilt for real.
For the heads I was going to actually get them worked. The valve size is fine - its the ports that would get some work, and the bowls. Get as much flow out of them without sacrificing low rpm port speed.
The Euro cams included I was going to get ground. I was going to investigate solid lifters and modifying the cam boxes (you can do it cheaply or have lindsey racing do both sides () ) Get some good healthy lift from the cams and if I needed to, open up the valve reliefs in the pistons if required (may not be).
The real issue that I wanted was the intake. You have seen the pictures of the pieces. Its a basic idea, but it will flow very well, and work with the higher flowing top end.
.3 of a liter is going to do little, really, regarding a 5L.
I think a solid 350 or more could be had with a proper package and intake and fueling. Use your cash for an aftermarket EMS on this system and getting the intake welded together however you wanted (using the pieces I started to get from rossmachineracing.com )
If you are thinking of stroker - its cubically more expensive. GregB is the best choice obviously, but don't get my stuff - just send him a check for 15k or so to start off, and wait for the awesomeness.
With 5k though, you could do something very nice in the stock-ish configuration but with good, solid work where it counts - reliability and good top end work.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I was going to disassemble and clean the engine block resize the rods properly, rebush, coat the piston skirts. Essentially prepare a stock block but A+ on the best practices to make it robust and properly rebuilt for real.
For the heads I was going to actually get them worked. The valve size is fine - its the ports that would get some work, and the bowls. Get as much flow out of them without sacrificing low rpm port speed.
The Euro cams included I was going to get ground. I was going to investigate solid lifters and modifying the cam boxes (you can do it cheaply or have lindsey racing do both sides () ) Get some good healthy lift from the cams and if I needed to, open up the valve reliefs in the pistons if required (may not be).
The real issue that I wanted was the intake. You have seen the pictures of the pieces. Its a basic idea, but it will flow very well, and work with the higher flowing top end.
.3 of a liter is going to do little, really, regarding a 5L.
I think a solid 350 or more could be had with a proper package and intake and fueling. Use your cash for an aftermarket EMS on this system and getting the intake welded together however you wanted (using the pieces I started to get from rossmachineracing.com )
If you are thinking of stroker - its cubically more expensive. GregB is the best choice obviously, but don't get my stuff - just send him a check for 15k or so to start off, and wait for the awesomeness.
With 5k though, you could do something very nice in the stock-ish configuration but with good, solid work where it counts - reliability and good top end work.
#15
Race Car