Building a 16v stroker
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,575
Likes: 5
From: Orange, Cal
Cost is greater than starting with a not hard at all to find cheap 4.7 block, and a bored 4.5 could have issues either from the process or the thinner cylinder walls you end up with.
"BC has a 4.7 for sale. and im looking in to it, but i need to see how much a pro rebuild will be. etc be for i make the plung. but that sounds like my best option to me."
Without question I think a pro rebuild is going to be the most reliable choice, but it will add two additional costs, labor, and parts that are not practical for a pro to reuse instead of putting in new that as a time means nothing amateur you can spend hours instead of dollars fiddling with.
Once you add up all the minor bits and pieces, I don't see your budget supporting more than a basic Euro S build, with some intake and exhaust work.
"BC has a 4.7 for sale. and im looking in to it, but i need to see how much a pro rebuild will be. etc be for i make the plung. but that sounds like my best option to me."
Without question I think a pro rebuild is going to be the most reliable choice, but it will add two additional costs, labor, and parts that are not practical for a pro to reuse instead of putting in new that as a time means nothing amateur you can spend hours instead of dollars fiddling with.
Once you add up all the minor bits and pieces, I don't see your budget supporting more than a basic Euro S build, with some intake and exhaust work.
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 32
By Danglerb
A reco engine here will run $14 to $20K depending on what is changed, $14K wont get you a new bore, if you are paying for labour it won't be cheap. I can't see how it could be any cheaper in the States, there is a lot of time involved when you do the job right.
Greg
Once you add up all the minor bits and pieces, I don't see your budget supporting more than a basic Euro S build, with some intake and exhaust work.
Greg
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,575
Likes: 5
From: Orange, Cal
For my taste, and perhaps my lack of experience, I would be very selective in which items I replace when rebuilding a motor. Some of it is due to the crazy cost of parts from Porsche, some of it is due to the long normal life many parts have. I know people who have done it, and I am seriously considering putting an engine back together with the same bearings and rings it had in it.
The following is pure late night speculation, not especially complete or accurate.
Costs that can't really be avoided.
$450 for a full gasket set from Reinz (oem)
$1000 or so, Water pump and all the timing belt stuff.
$500 or so, new plugs, wires, caps, rotors, and vacuum lines.
Costs that might be avoided depending on needs;
Rings
Bearings
Things I would not replace without issues;
Pistons,
Rods,
Crank
Even keeping parts, I think complete disassembly, cleaning, and inspection is essential. Keeping old parts means everything needs to be numbered to track, and more labor is required to inspect.
Heads need rebuilding with new guides, and that can include new valves, springs and lifters, or not.
The following is pure late night speculation, not especially complete or accurate.
Costs that can't really be avoided.
$450 for a full gasket set from Reinz (oem)
$1000 or so, Water pump and all the timing belt stuff.
$500 or so, new plugs, wires, caps, rotors, and vacuum lines.
Costs that might be avoided depending on needs;
Rings
Bearings
Things I would not replace without issues;
Pistons,
Rods,
Crank
Even keeping parts, I think complete disassembly, cleaning, and inspection is essential. Keeping old parts means everything needs to be numbered to track, and more labor is required to inspect.
Heads need rebuilding with new guides, and that can include new valves, springs and lifters, or not.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 16,271
Likes: 82
From: Stockton, CA
What is your plan for the motor? If you are looking for improved street performance, take a look at your local smog laws...boost works great for the street and is cost effective vs the HP gain
A 5.0L hybrid 16V euro is another proven cost effective way to get reliable HP....300whp is typical, but with more head work and hotter cams you could get slightly more...maybe 350whp?
A true stroker is serious $$$$$$ but they work.....greg has built plenty that work very well....
It all hinges on your budget and what you plan to do with the 928......if you are looking to build a track-race 928.....I'd leave it BONE STOCK why you learn to race and improve your driving...build the suspension-brakes 1st....the engine is last
A 5.0L hybrid 16V euro is another proven cost effective way to get reliable HP....300whp is typical, but with more head work and hotter cams you could get slightly more...maybe 350whp?
A true stroker is serious $$$$$$ but they work.....greg has built plenty that work very well....
It all hinges on your budget and what you plan to do with the 928......if you are looking to build a track-race 928.....I'd leave it BONE STOCK why you learn to race and improve your driving...build the suspension-brakes 1st....the engine is last
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock Ga.
I have to agree w/ BC. .3 cc isn't a whole lot. If there is a difference beside HP I would think that it would show in the TQ area being larger displacement!
What are your goals? To me 350RWHP for the street is more than enough. At that point you start to wonder about other things breaking and getting the power to the ground!
A 4.7L build will be cheaper and should get you some nice RWHP! The motor is cheap, buy some bearings and gasket's, refreshen the thing as needed and go!
A 5.0L hybrid build to get 350RWHP will cost a lot more than a standard hybrid build. It is my belief that to get another 50RWHP is going to cost some money, and a bit of it!
Do something a little different, freshen up your 4.7L, get all the top end euro parts, do some nice work to the heads and maybe bigger valves and she will be a beast. Then the next go around you can think of boost, engine mgt systems, ITB's, supercharger or turbo, whatever. You will have a solid base to add onto. No cutting of the piston's, no buying a more expensive 5.0L block, build what is available and cheaper and make it strong! Hell a 4.5L built well will give you all the HP you need w/ the supporting mods.
If you decide to add boost I would change the rings and HG'sestion of cost and your eventual goal. What type of motor you want, N/A or boost!
What are your goals? To me 350RWHP for the street is more than enough. At that point you start to wonder about other things breaking and getting the power to the ground!
A 4.7L build will be cheaper and should get you some nice RWHP! The motor is cheap, buy some bearings and gasket's, refreshen the thing as needed and go!
A 5.0L hybrid build to get 350RWHP will cost a lot more than a standard hybrid build. It is my belief that to get another 50RWHP is going to cost some money, and a bit of it!
Do something a little different, freshen up your 4.7L, get all the top end euro parts, do some nice work to the heads and maybe bigger valves and she will be a beast. Then the next go around you can think of boost, engine mgt systems, ITB's, supercharger or turbo, whatever. You will have a solid base to add onto. No cutting of the piston's, no buying a more expensive 5.0L block, build what is available and cheaper and make it strong! Hell a 4.5L built well will give you all the HP you need w/ the supporting mods.
If you decide to add boost I would change the rings and HG'sestion of cost and your eventual goal. What type of motor you want, N/A or boost!
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