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Hmmm.....there have been some owners that have suggested this permanent bypass, but I would strongly suggest trying the KDBP via a momentary button action first. See how you like the operation in the first place. It should be easy to short across the new momentary switch to try the permanent solution and compare. Like I said, several others have employed Fred's method. I don't think I would want it permanently bypassed... just personal preference
Michael,
It is only permanent whilst the spade connector is made. I believe it is also controllable in wet weather but as I have about 20 minutes experience of that in 10 years of 928 ownership I do not consider myself an expert in that respect.
Simply winding in the kick down cable [and nothing else] usually permits 1st gear starts on part throttle and a more lively response to boot but shorting the kick down switch is as good as it gets on a 928 auto short of force feeding it.
I believe the only real cure for the 928 auto's limitations is a twin screw torque curve but not so sure I would want the kick down by-passed on that type of setup. I think that is what we Yorkshire folk would call a "**** or bust" type of scenario!
Thanks for the posts, I am a new member and just picked up a 89 S4. I put the switch next to the e brake. Black toggle, on/off written, hardly noticeble, and found one that fit in the round hole next to the hatch open. Only one slit in the carpet, and looks great. Anything I found to work with the foot I did not like. Used soldered connection on the switch and spliced into the kds with wire connector ( insulated and shrink wrap type). Very clean, and works awesome.
Thanks for the posts, I am a new member and just picked up a 89 S4. I put the switch next to the e brake. Black toggle, on/off written, hardly noticeble, and found one that fit in the round hole next to the hatch open. Only one slit in the carpet, and looks great. Anything I found to work with the foot I did not like. Used soldered connection on the switch and spliced into the kds with wire connector ( insulated and shrink wrap type). Very clean, and works awesome.
Thanks all
We'll give you a break on not posting pictures since it's you first post, but sounds like a nice setup.
I know a few have used switches and others have used monetary buttons.
Oh yeah, welcome to the club and post some pictures of your car.
I was watching a car show on TV this weekend and saw an older Chevy with a drag race setup. The one thing I saw and liked was an alumium-cased pushbutton switch on the shifter arm, with a red button. It strapped on the shifter arm so it could be pressed while keeping your hand on the gear shifter.
They called it a "line lock" to hold the front brakes until the Chevy was launched down the drag strip.
It would be great for the kick-down bypass switch.
Does anyone know where to buy that switch?
I have been looking on Google and some other sites and can't find this switch. I even tried Google image search and no luck there either. Maybe I am not calling it by the right name.
I was watching a car show on TV this weekend and saw an older Chevy with a drag race setup. The one thing I saw and liked was an alumium-cased pushbutton switch on the shifter arm, with a red button. It strapped on the shifter arm so it could be pressed while keeping your hand on the gear shifter.
They called it a "line lock" to hold the front brakes until the Chevy was launched down the drag strip.
It would be great for the kick-down bypass switch.
Does anyone know where to buy that switch?
I have been looking on Google and some other sites and can't find this switch. I even tried Google image search and no luck there either. Maybe I am not calling it by the right name.
Anyone know more about this line lock switch?
Thanks,
Joe
Joe, sounds like you made your mind up about the location but if you leave it in D it doesn't make sense to leave your hand on the shifter right? Anyway, some guys tested continous power to the kick down solenoid and found heat developing, so it is not recommended to have the KDS on permanently.
If/when I do this... I think I sold on the momentary contact switch on the dead pedal. I'll definitely mess with a temps switch to see if I like it.
What are the undesired surprising results of continuous use (other than solenoid heat)? Are their unpredictable or hard down sifts?
With the kick down engaged will it hold a gear longer (not up shift) under moderate to lighter loads? The big question is will it allow 1st gear down shifts at higher speeds or in conjunction with manual shifting?
With the kick down engaged will it hold a gear longer (not up shift) under moderate to lighter loads? The big question is will it allow 1st gear down shifts at higher speeds or in conjunction with manual shifting?
When the kick down contact is made the gearbox tends to hold gear until you wnd it round the clock. If you back off the throttle it will change to the next ratio and is very controllable like that. It will not alter the raod speed at which it will down shift to first. If anyone knows a solution to that dilemma please let me know as it often kills performance when overtaking in town and the thing tends to bog down at certain speeds.
I dont want to leave the kickdown switch on all the time, I just want to be able to hit a momentary push button and drop down a gear, then let the auto transmission wind out and up shift on its own. (I think)
The other way to do the pushbutton is a push on - push off type switch. That way you could turn on the kickdown and leave on....regardless of the switch type...
PUSH BUTTON SWITCH HOLDER/CASE IS WHAT I WANT
I did find plenty of wired pushbutton switches on Summit Racing's web site, but I am looking for the aluminum case/holder for the switch, an aluminum case the pushbutton mounts in, one that clamps/straps on the shift lever.
Then you can manually shift the automatic transmission and/or with a finger push the button to get the downshift from the kickdown.
Has anyone seen a line lock switch case like that?
(Added a photo of a plastic version of line-lock switch enclosure)
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