checkmate1996

you should buy a door panel remover tool to get the panel snaps out with out destroying the already old panel....

Chuck Schreiber

These work good.

http://www.genuinehotrod.com/PartDetail.asp?PartId=6010

I use every time I take the door panels off either car.

IrishLegend

Thanks.

jwillman

So other cars (non-porsche) I have removed door panles from have used a vapor barrier attached to the inside of the door, sheet plastic held on by a plyable adhesive that would reseal when reapplied.

Did the 928 ever have anything like that?

jpitman2

Yes, the door metal under the lining panel should have a relatively heavy plastic sheet gled to it with stuff like heavy duty blue tack. I replaced mine a few years ago as they had been cut in several places, and become very scrappy.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

Imo000

I didn't seen anyone say, after removing the door ****, to unscrew the door **** round back plate by spinning it CCW.

Mrmerlin

after removing the door lock ****,
place open hand over the backing plate press and unscrew CCW .

Note dont over tighten either the backing plate or the **** as either one of these too tight will jamb the locking actuators either the key wont work to unlock or the door lock motor wont work

Here are 2 pictures of a door vapor barrier . First one is the drip panel installed these attach to the tops of each opening then fall free past the lower edges of the door openings about 1 to 2 inches.
Second picture is a complete cover of all the holes in the door , once these are installed the door will have a vault like feel

dr bob

On gluing those upper door edges, remember that the foam isn't glued to the door panel. Use the contact cement on the backside of the panel only, where the vinyl rolls over and wraps under the top edge. Then just on that rolled section of the vinyl that warps around. Following the directions on the Weldwood can, the adhesive gets to tack strength after it's dried some. So apply it to the panel and the vinyl, and wait a bit. Then carefully pull the vinyl over the edge and clamp it in place while it dries, adjusting as needed to get a straight surface and rolled edge. I add paint stirring stcks on the outside face so the little spring clamps don't leave pressure marks in the vinyl.

The carpet gets carefully removed, then goes into the washing machine for a wsh on the 'hand-wash' cycle. Before the machine spins the carpet after the last rinse, I manually arrange it pile-side out on the drum so it won't get wrinkled. Dry it completely, and decide if it needs to be re-dyed before installation. Use the same contact cement, but insert a wax-paper slip sheet before actually sticking the carpet back on the panel. This way you can place just the upper edge first and press the carpet flat without any stretching as you move away from that edge. The contact cement doesn't stick to the wax paper at all.

Maleficio

Once you do it a couple of times, it becomes a breeze.

928 GT R

This works exceptionally well... Thanks!

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