CV Joint Bolts Frozen
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
CV Joint Bolts Frozen
Can anyone tell me if the CV joint bolts are installed from the factory using Locktite? I've been trying to break the bolts free but they won't budge and I'm afraid I'm going to either strip the heads or break the bolts. I sprayed them for two days with Kroil but none of the 12 will move which leads me to believe there's something in there other than rust:/ I'm thinking of trying a heat gun. Any thoughts?
#3
Team Owner
I would use and airgun the one for taking off the lug bolts 1/2 in drive.
SO clean the heads of the bolts with brake cleaner and a pick blow them out ,
then fit the tool to the bolt and gun them out
make sure you have a good quality tool that fits the bolts either allen or triple square,
file the tip so its flush and square with the tool sides.
SO clean the heads of the bolts with brake cleaner and a pick blow them out ,
then fit the tool to the bolt and gun them out
make sure you have a good quality tool that fits the bolts either allen or triple square,
file the tip so its flush and square with the tool sides.
#4
Usually set bolts need to be "shocked" to break them free to remove them.
I would use a 3/8" or a 1/2" square hexagon headed allen socket to neatly fit into the allen headed set bolt and use a breaker bar. Take up the tension on the set bolt and while maintaining the tension give the end of the bar a sharp crack with the palm of your hand in an anti-clockwise direction. This should "break" the set bolt loose for removal.
On replacement I would use a quality "anti-seize" compound on the threads.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
I would use a 3/8" or a 1/2" square hexagon headed allen socket to neatly fit into the allen headed set bolt and use a breaker bar. Take up the tension on the set bolt and while maintaining the tension give the end of the bar a sharp crack with the palm of your hand in an anti-clockwise direction. This should "break" the set bolt loose for removal.
On replacement I would use a quality "anti-seize" compound on the threads.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I tried a 1/2" breaker bar, that didn't work. As for banging with your hand, DON'T. I'm currently recovering from 5 1/2 hours of surgery, two 8" long cuts down the top and bottom of my hand and 4 weeks in a cast from using my hand to bang on wrenches! Use a hammer! I think I'll try cleaning them up, heat, and the air gun to see if that works. Considering everything else on the car has come off easy enough I'm surprised that these are being so difficult.
#6
Rennlist Member
I tried a 1/2" breaker bar, that didn't work. As for banging with your hand, DON'T. I'm currently recovering from 5 1/2 hours of surgery, two 8" long cuts down the top and bottom of my hand and 4 weeks in a cast from using my hand to bang on wrenches! Use a hammer! I think I'll try cleaning them up, heat, and the air gun to see if that works. Considering everything else on the car has come off easy enough I'm surprised that these are being so difficult.
What the heck happened?
#7
Nordschleife Master
Use an impact, or use a hammer to hammer the allen into the bolt, that normally shocks them enough to come free.
When reinstalling, ensure that you have correct torque or they WILL back out.
When reinstalling, ensure that you have correct torque or they WILL back out.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I guess banging a wrench or breaker bar caused an aneurism in the heal of my hand and then the artery clotted on both sides of it. By the time I was able to schedule surgery the upstream artery clotted all the way up to the top of my bycep. They were only able to use about 8" of vein from the top of my arm to replace the artery on the bottom of my arm. Anyone reading this should learn from my mistake, use a hammer not your hand to loosen stuck bolts!
#11
biggest thing is to make sure they are clean and the tool sits all the way at the bottom. i uses an air ratchet and it work... but sounds like an impact is the way to go.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cleaned the bolts up, sprayed them again, banged the allen socket in to make sure it was in all the way in, and then used the impact wrench. All the bolts came right out. Thanks for the help guys!
#15
Rennlist Member
I had the same problem while racing recently at Spa Francorchamps - both outer CV gaiters split during qualifying. Managed to drop one driveshaft in 10mins, swapped a spare one and then tried the driver's side. 3 bolts would not budge and began to round off. Patched the hole with duck tape and electrical loom tape. Went out, raced 2 x 40mins races and finished 3d in class, and 25 overall out of 74 starters.
Anyway, when back at the base, with the help of a proper ramp, we managed to get the nasty bolts out. Swapped them for proper 13mm hex heads bolts. Now I can get a proper socket on them and swap driveshafts in minutes if I need to. Still no idea why Porsche used the stupid hex key design...
Anyway, when back at the base, with the help of a proper ramp, we managed to get the nasty bolts out. Swapped them for proper 13mm hex heads bolts. Now I can get a proper socket on them and swap driveshafts in minutes if I need to. Still no idea why Porsche used the stupid hex key design...