frustrated

I would send your LH and Maf to John Speake or borrow someones. My car acted the same way. Sometimes wouldnt start at all. (no reference at the injectors, I think) Occasionally would run ok then after about a mile would revert to super rich. but most times it only just started and idled as though only half the pots were working and with a WW2 destroyer smoke screen out the back. Changed temp and air sensor, plus all relevant relays, changed leads, plugs & rotor caps, had all relevant joints on back of control board re soldered even had the ECU checked locally but it apparently checked out ok. After 2 weeks of both me and the porsche specialist trying everything sent the LH & Maf to John. He found an unusual intermittent spike in the ECU. Anyway sent me a new one and everything has been fine since!
That is apart from having a couple of noisy lifters caused by running it too rich when it first happened.

AO

I was going through some old emails and I recall another guy with a GT here in the US with a similar problem. Super rich all the time, couldn't rev it beyond a certain amount. Had a newly rebuilt MAF, LH, etc.

Turned out his new MAF was bad. Put in a BRAND NEW MAF and all was fine. Just a thoguht. If you have access to a known good MAF, you might want to try that.

stuartph

Maf & LH are now off the car

Luckily for me JDS is but a short drive away, so i can get them checked out by the expert

VehiGAZ

I'll wager a pint of Boddingtons (Guiness Light) on the LH...

stuartph

Guys

I took both my MAF & LH ECU to JDS

John found my MAF to be shot , next up my LH was checked and found to be ok

So with a new MAF thank you John i set about getting the car running, but nope it wont fire at all, i have checked for a spark today again and just get small puffs of smoke but no spark from the plug, so i have no or an intermitant spark fault

AO

No spark could be a number of things. The first hign comes to mind is the Crank Position sensor. This is the sensor atop the bell hosing. Since you were just in there, maybe you dislodged it. If you take the air filter housing off, you will see the sensor on the bellhousing with it's cable snaking up toward the pulleys for the throttle cable. The connector, if memory serves, is located between the two pulleys.

If that's in place, these are some of the other things to check:

EZK - plugged in?
coils,
coil wires
final stage ignition modules
caps
rotors

VehiGAZ

Rats! Ok, come to the states and I'll buy you all your Boddingtons!

Stromius

Here's a location picture of the CPS and connection under the pull (US car) - note the broken plug from the CPS:

docmirror

Ignition switch.

stuartph

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMm boddingtons

I'll check the CPS in the morning, maybe i have upset it, it was new not that long ago

Doc, what are your thoughts on the ignition switch

stuartph

Today i checked the CPS out

I followed the instruction in the workshop manual (D28-11) and checked the CPS sine wave pattern

This is what i got, sorry about the poor quality

Manual states 3V

Mine 2.24V

So is my CPS shot

Stromius

well done!

John Speake

That's 3v pk-pk Stuart, so that's OK. Your meter is giving you the rms value, I think ? Is the scale 1v/div ?

Mongo

Wow I want one of those meters. That would help out with my troubleshooting big time.

stuartph

John

Yes the scale is 1v/div

So the sensor is ok ?

Andy

Yes its a lovely bit of kit and it was half price when i got it, knew it would be handy one day