Alternator Removal - Yes / No?
#1
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I was wondering why during a service it seems that it's recommended to leave the alternator hooked up - even if it has been unbolted. I think I even recall in one of Dwayne's excellent write ups he propped it on a cardboard box - p/s line service write up. What's the purpose of this, it seems like it would just be easier to disconnect and remove during service.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
#2
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It is not, the wires are not easy to get to as they are behind the cover.
Just follow the write-up's, and you will see why.
edit: you are also removing the PS pump too with the same three bolts as it is the Alt /PS bracket that you are actually removing.
Just follow the write-up's, and you will see why.
edit: you are also removing the PS pump too with the same three bolts as it is the Alt /PS bracket that you are actually removing.
Last edited by davek9; 04-24-2010 at 10:27 PM.
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#4
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the alternator is connected to an extended harness for just this reason service , use a coat hanger to hang it from the chassis out of the way dont let it dangle on the wires as it can possibly short out inside the air duct cover
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So the alt has a nondetachable wire that runs elsewhere in the car to a hookup point, and the idea is you hang it to prevent stretch / pull damage to the wire?
#6
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Usually for me its easier to leave them connected. But disconnect the battery for safety.
Depends, too, on what your definition is for the car getting "service".
My 85 and 86 have alternator harness wires that allow the alternators to actually sit on the garage floor with the car moderately high on jackstands. So might your 87. The other ones need a milk crate to hold them from dangling --- dangling is a state to avoid.
For a timing belt job or pan gasket job I usually take 10 minutes to disconnect the back cover and wires. Gets it out of the way, especially if I'm going to be doing a lot of spraying to clean.
Depends, too, on what your definition is for the car getting "service".
My 85 and 86 have alternator harness wires that allow the alternators to actually sit on the garage floor with the car moderately high on jackstands. So might your 87. The other ones need a milk crate to hold them from dangling --- dangling is a state to avoid.
For a timing belt job or pan gasket job I usually take 10 minutes to disconnect the back cover and wires. Gets it out of the way, especially if I'm going to be doing a lot of spraying to clean.
#7
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I'm working on James' '85 Euro, and the console that holds the alternator/PS pump comes of the block with a few bolts, and the whole assy sits on the end of a milk crate while the belt is replaced. No need to break any PS connections or disconnect any wiring when done this way.
To get to the alternator connections, the air duct housing comes off the back of the alternator. It's possible to get the cover off with the alternator in place, but most folks drop the alternator to get to the top nuts that hold the cover.
So this all comes together with the idea that you need to drop the alternator to undo the connections. If your goal is just to get the alternator out of the way, why would you ad extra steps to remove the cover and disconnect the wiring, then reconnect it and restore the cover?
-----
Removing and installing the alternator made it it to several folks' 'top ten worst jobs' lists on the 928. Doing it with the console loose means you can just set it on a support or hang it as another suggests. For reassembly, I put the whole assy on a couple blocks on the floor jack, and move the whiole thing back up into position with the jack. It takes just minutes to get it back in that way, no grunting at all.
To get to the alternator connections, the air duct housing comes off the back of the alternator. It's possible to get the cover off with the alternator in place, but most folks drop the alternator to get to the top nuts that hold the cover.
So this all comes together with the idea that you need to drop the alternator to undo the connections. If your goal is just to get the alternator out of the way, why would you ad extra steps to remove the cover and disconnect the wiring, then reconnect it and restore the cover?
-----
Removing and installing the alternator made it it to several folks' 'top ten worst jobs' lists on the 928. Doing it with the console loose means you can just set it on a support or hang it as another suggests. For reassembly, I put the whole assy on a couple blocks on the floor jack, and move the whiole thing back up into position with the jack. It takes just minutes to get it back in that way, no grunting at all.
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#8
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I cracked the nuts that hold the bracket so there is some room to slide the alternator in and out. For electrical work I always detach the ground strap under the tool kit. It is a good idea to clean the contacts whenever you have the chance.
#9
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I would much apreciate a picture of an alternator in place, from under the car, showing the tensionbracket. I just bought a new tension bracket according to the PET and it seems totally out of place, pointing in directions where there is no alternator.
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#11
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I may be wrong, but I would think the lock nut on the tensioner bolt should be tightened against the large hex at the other end of the threads, not against the forked end of the bracket.