Carl Fausett

We now carry a complete set of replacement camshaft bolts for the 32v heads.

These replace the easily-stripped "triple-square" bolt head that sells for $6.50 each at the Dealer. Class 8.8 just like OEM with case-hardened washers too.

We have also found the tool for these is much easier to get into place between the camshaft caps and the inner fender when the engine is still in the car.

More information at this link:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...teners_kit.php

ptuomov

So more need for my triple-square / 12-point / XZN socket wrench anymore?

Carl Fausett

The last 32v motor I did, a 1991 928, almost half of the damn things stripped instead of breaking free. A 1991 model is 19 years old now, so I guess that explains their reluctance to moving.

We tried every trick in the book to prevent that, but they still stripped. There was NO WAY I was putting that fastener back in!.

To get the stripped ones out, we TIG-welded a small M6 nut to the top of each stripped bolt, then turned them out with a 6mm wrench.

Carl Fausett

What other tricks have people used to get the OEM fasteners out?

BC

I just had to dremel little lines in them so I could chisel in a radial fashion. That prompted some metal getting in the heads. And that led to the engine removal on my first 928, the 89S4 I bought in october 2000. So you could say these bolts caused my downward spiral of dis-assembly.

Carl Fausett

We tried using a 0 tip (very small) on the oxy-acetylene torch. Then we heated the head of the bolt itself, then let it cool, then try to break torque on it. It improved our odds some and we got a few more out that way without striping.

Thats an old mechanics trick. You would think you would want to heat the aluminum and not the steel, but in this case no. You heat the steel bolt thats in the aluminum, it expands, and crushes the corrosion down in the threads between the fastener and the aluminum (this is caused by the galvanic reaction of two dissimilar metals, but enough about that).

When the bolt is allowed to cool and shrink, it can now be turned out of the hole more easily. It usually works.

Still, even with this technique - we stripped quite a few of the damn things.

Imo000

I've used a punch driver.....I think that's what it's called. You put a socket or a screw driver bit into the end and then hit the top with a hammer. When you hit it, the tool will rotate the socket , like a hammer drill. I've taken off exhaust manifold bolts from other cars that hardly resambled their original shape. It amazed me how well this simple tool works.

FBIII

I have use my old $12 impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. I have only used it on a pair of heads but they all came out without stripping. I think I'm using the same tool as the post above.

StratfordShark

Another vote for handheld impact driver. Used successfully on the rotor retention screws, as well as the front driving light screws which are notorious for corrosion in that position - either the bolt head gets rounded or it shears. Came out clean as whistle with impact driver.

Have to remove coolant bridge soon and will use it on those bolts too.

Mongo

Wow those will come in handy when I do my valve covers this year. I wouldn't mind replacing the hardware in there at that price!

ptuomov

They drill out perfect with one of the metric bits, and then (surprisingly) the stem turns easily by hand. I think Erkka explained the procedure way back when in a post.

Lizard928

I have found a great deal of them have some form of loctite on them.

Heating the base (head) where they thread in helps to extract them.
But the other thing that works well too is to put the socket on and give it a nice healthy smack. Using this method, with a breaker bar only one stripped and I used a craftsman broken bolt extractor over the head to complete the removal.

Carl Fausett

Yep, that "impact screwdriver" is a staple when working on old cars. Its a good tool to have.

ROG100

That is a great price.
The cam cap bolts from Porsche are no longer triple Square they are Allan - I guess they listened to people bitching.

blown 87

I use a 40 year old Snap-On hand impact and a Snap-On bit and have yet to strip one.
The trick is to get them 100% clean and dry, then use good tools.

Everybody says they are a bitch, always strip out, etc, but I have yet to have one give me a problem, just get them clean and dry first, any oil on the tool or the bolt is going to be a problem.

I usually use a couple of cans of Wurth brake clean to get them clean.