What Next? Fuel Filter/Pump Leak
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Me again, the not so experienced mechanic! Last night I tried replacing the fuel filter and before I could start, I created a small drip leak of gasoline from the fuel pump by unscrewing the filter bracket. I figured I should just tighten her back up and ask for opinions before proceeding.
What's my next move? Does the seal need to be replaced on the fuel pump? Do I just proceed with changing the filter and catch the fuel that leaks?
Again, I'm sorry for the ignorant questions all the time.
Thanks,
Brian
What's my next move? Does the seal need to be replaced on the fuel pump? Do I just proceed with changing the filter and catch the fuel that leaks?
Again, I'm sorry for the ignorant questions all the time.
Thanks,
Brian
#2
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Just got your message Bri, sorry I missed the call. And there is no such thing as an ignorant question, so don't sweat it, it's what this forum is here for.
If you were able to get the connections loose, you are a head of the game already. You might be able to tighten it up again and not have any leaks. I prefer to change the seals anytime the connection is broken, but that is just me. You will have some fuel come out when you change the filter, just catch it in a pan as you do the change. Just be very careful not to round off the edges of all the connection nuts.
If you were able to get the connections loose, you are a head of the game already. You might be able to tighten it up again and not have any leaks. I prefer to change the seals anytime the connection is broken, but that is just me. You will have some fuel come out when you change the filter, just catch it in a pan as you do the change. Just be very careful not to round off the edges of all the connection nuts.
#3
Three Wheelin'
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No biggy huh? That's good. Can I get the seals locally? Thanks Sean
#4
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Brian,
It is CRITICAL that you counter-hold the fittings so that you don't twist the lines. It is also critical that your wrenches fit perfectly. "Flare wrenches", which are basically six-point box-ends with a section removed, are the tool of choice. These wrenches can put enough torque to break the fitting loose, but the increased contact (as compared to a standard open-end wrench) helps avoid distorting the fitting and rounding it off. Don't bother buying any cheap flare wrenches - they don't work.
It is CRITICAL that you counter-hold the fittings so that you don't twist the lines. It is also critical that your wrenches fit perfectly. "Flare wrenches", which are basically six-point box-ends with a section removed, are the tool of choice. These wrenches can put enough torque to break the fitting loose, but the increased contact (as compared to a standard open-end wrench) helps avoid distorting the fitting and rounding it off. Don't bother buying any cheap flare wrenches - they don't work.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks.
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#8
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Brian,
It is CRITICAL that you counter-hold the fittings so that you don't twist the lines. It is also critical that your wrenches fit perfectly. "Flare wrenches", which are basically six-point box-ends with a section removed, are the tool of choice. These wrenches can put enough torque to break the fitting loose, but the increased contact (as compared to a standard open-end wrench) helps avoid distorting the fitting and rounding it off. Don't bother buying any cheap flare wrenches - they don't work.
It is CRITICAL that you counter-hold the fittings so that you don't twist the lines. It is also critical that your wrenches fit perfectly. "Flare wrenches", which are basically six-point box-ends with a section removed, are the tool of choice. These wrenches can put enough torque to break the fitting loose, but the increased contact (as compared to a standard open-end wrench) helps avoid distorting the fitting and rounding it off. Don't bother buying any cheap flare wrenches - they don't work.
What are these considered? I have no Flare wrenches so I'm wondering if I should get these.
.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...e+wrench&mv=tr
Thanks for asking questions Brian. Us newbies need help.
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Yep, those are flare nut wrenches. As Wally says, absolutely necessary to safely work with fuel fittings. The 'crush rings' on the fuel line connections really must be replaced when the connection is opened up. There is a process called 'annealing' that uses heat to restore the sealing capability of a crush ring, but I have no idea how this is actually done. For 20 cents a piece I likely will not learn it ;-)
Same with power steering and any other connection that uses a banjo bolt (although, oddly enough, my front brake lines use banjo bolts but had no crush rings where they connect to the calipers ... hmmm)
Same with power steering and any other connection that uses a banjo bolt (although, oddly enough, my front brake lines use banjo bolts but had no crush rings where they connect to the calipers ... hmmm)
#10
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That set would be semi useful for starters but to handle all the fuel fittings you'll need a 19, maybe a 21, and definitely either 22 or 24 (can't remember if the fuel filter body is 22 or 24 mm.)
#11
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I have found that filter changes are best done on the bench. The only extra work is R&R the leads to the pump terminals (7 & 8mm IIRC). Loosen the 4 rubber insulated support nuts, and once the pump inlet is didconnected, and the filter outlet also, the whole assy comes off. My theory was reinforced when I found my local wrench stocked the S pipe because of the number of them that are distorted by incorrect fitment due to poor access making counter holding difficult.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#12
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"The 'crush rings' on the fuel line connections really must be replaced when the connection is opened up. There is a process called 'annealing' that uses heat to restore the sealing capability of a crush ring, but I have no idea how this is actually done. For 20 cents a piece I likely will not learn it ;-)"
If you get stuck and need to anneal a crush ring...
Hang the ring on a steel rod that is held in a vise, Vise-Grip or other means that is safe with high heat. Heat the ring red-hot with a propane torch, welding torch, or over a gas flame. Let air-cool. Clean and install.
Copper work-hardens very easily. Annealing softens the copper so that it will seal better.
If you get stuck and need to anneal a crush ring...
Hang the ring on a steel rod that is held in a vise, Vise-Grip or other means that is safe with high heat. Heat the ring red-hot with a propane torch, welding torch, or over a gas flame. Let air-cool. Clean and install.
Copper work-hardens very easily. Annealing softens the copper so that it will seal better.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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What other size are the rings called besides 16x12?