Saddle up fellers, we're goin' on a gremlin hunt...
#16
[POSTED BEFORE YOUR LAST MESSAGE - I THINK YOU"VE GOT SOME MISWIRED LIGHTS] So, none of the interior lights work in the always on mode? That wouldn't be the relay. Don't get mislead by the switch's position (a=pin switched, b=off, c=on). They can be wired incorrectly so "a" and "c" can be reversed. You should pull the units out and make sure that the up ("a") position is connecting with brown/white switched ground. If so, then confirm sure the brown wire for always on mode is actually making ground. There are several ground points, each light being separate, so having none of th lights work from a bad ground doesn't seem possible. So, something else is going on if none of the lights work in always on. The delayed off after a door close, which the relay controls, is about 22 seconds.
Thanks!
Rob
#17
The door lights are often removed/unplugged when doing speaker work on the doors, which this car has had in the past. So, I suspect miswiring. In the case of the hatch/dome/map, those just need to be rotated 180 degrees. As to the dash, look at the 2-pin connector on the bottom of the ignition switch housing, as Wally advised.
#18
Just to be sure:
The wiring on the lights might not be instantly obvious.
- You should have three wires on each light: red (power, always hot); brown (always connected to ground); and brown/white (connected to ground thru a door or hatch switch, or thru the relay).
- The red wire should be hooked directly to one end of the light bulb.
- The brown and brown/white wires should be hooked to the switch, so that there are three possible configurations. These are:
- Brown to end of bulb, light will be on regardless of the door/hatch positions.
- Brown/white to end of bulb, light will be on when a door or the hatch is open, and shortly thereafter thru the relay.
- No connection to the end of the bulb, light will not come on.
The physical orientation of the light housing is immaterial...
The wiring on the lights might not be instantly obvious.
- You should have three wires on each light: red (power, always hot); brown (always connected to ground); and brown/white (connected to ground thru a door or hatch switch, or thru the relay).
- The red wire should be hooked directly to one end of the light bulb.
- The brown and brown/white wires should be hooked to the switch, so that there are three possible configurations. These are:
- Brown to end of bulb, light will be on regardless of the door/hatch positions.
- Brown/white to end of bulb, light will be on when a door or the hatch is open, and shortly thereafter thru the relay.
- No connection to the end of the bulb, light will not come on.
The physical orientation of the light housing is immaterial...
#19
Just to be sure:
The wiring on the lights might not be instantly obvious.
- You should have three wires on each light: red (power, always hot); brown (always connected to ground); and brown/white (connected to ground thru a door or hatch switch, or thru the relay).
- The red wire should be hooked directly to one end of the light bulb.
- The brown and brown/white wires should be hooked to the switch, so that there are three possible configurations. These are:
- Brown to end of bulb, light will be on regardless of the door/hatch positions.
- Brown/white to end of bulb, light will be on when a door or the hatch is open, and shortly thereafter thru the relay.
- No connection to the end of the bulb, light will not come on.
The physical orientation of the light housing is immaterial...
The wiring on the lights might not be instantly obvious.
- You should have three wires on each light: red (power, always hot); brown (always connected to ground); and brown/white (connected to ground thru a door or hatch switch, or thru the relay).
- The red wire should be hooked directly to one end of the light bulb.
- The brown and brown/white wires should be hooked to the switch, so that there are three possible configurations. These are:
- Brown to end of bulb, light will be on regardless of the door/hatch positions.
- Brown/white to end of bulb, light will be on when a door or the hatch is open, and shortly thereafter thru the relay.
- No connection to the end of the bulb, light will not come on.
The physical orientation of the light housing is immaterial...
#20
does this look right?
i rewired the door, the cargo light is fine, tested, and it worked. Then i went to the rear overhead light pulled it down and flicked it back and forth, worked fine. Tried it in one of the positions and closed the door, worked fine. then tucked it back in and it didn't work. Flicked it forward and it turned on, then flicked it to the opposite position and it didn't (doors still open). flicked it back again and the fuse popped. Off to kragen to get more 7.5a fuses....
#21
okay, got everything back together, i think last time I may have accidentally shorted the rear light. So everything works with the timer now, except the rear light. it only comes on in one position, which is manually turning it on. Maybe just a bad contact? Any ideas.
Tomorrow, I'll look for the 2 pin connector and chek out the rheostates under the pod.
Thanks!
Tomorrow, I'll look for the 2 pin connector and chek out the rheostates under the pod.
Thanks!
#23
There is a small two-pin connector under the dash near the steering column - this is the switch for the cluster that dims it when the ignition switch is turned on.
BTW - Pelican's price for the interior light - $33.81. Tech help here from Pelican - zero. Our price for the interior light - $32.81. Tech help here - constant.
BTW - Pelican's price for the interior light - $33.81. Tech help here from Pelican - zero. Our price for the interior light - $32.81. Tech help here - constant.
Ordered the LED upgrades for all 5 lights from Nicole too...
Thanks,
R
#24
The wiring of that light is correct. The pivoting switch action gets iffy like you are describing. It's amazing that these fail as I doubt anyone ever touches the switches. Mine have been strictly in the Auto position. It may be worth a try to clean it as lack of use might have allowed corrosion to form. I've tried fiddling with the contacts to make them more reliable but ended up ordering new.
#25
That was precisely my course of action. The new switch(es) are so smooth, it's like butter. Thanks, Bill.
#27