Thoughts on the 1989 S4 (WARNING-PICTURE HEAVY)
#31
Rennlist Member
Jerry,
You are mighty sensitive these days man... just messing with you! I'd F*ing STEAL the car if I thought I could! NEVER walk up and hand them the asking price! If you don't ask for a good deal you certainly won't get one! I don't think that is a bad price though, all said...
You are mighty sensitive these days man... just messing with you! I'd F*ing STEAL the car if I thought I could! NEVER walk up and hand them the asking price! If you don't ask for a good deal you certainly won't get one! I don't think that is a bad price though, all said...
I wish I could tell better when you guys were just messing with me. I guess I'll learn in time. Bear with me.
Jerry Feather
#34
Nordschleife Master
^^^^^^
LOL! Yea, Jerry, I just assume everyone is messing with me when I get a bad comment, if they follow it up with a SECOND bad/nasty comment then FIGHTS ON!!!
BTW, we will see if I am any good at the talking people down tomorrow when I go look at a car... Yea, like I need a 9th car!! The second since not having a job no less...what the hell am I thinking! Well, this time it is NOT a 928! It will be the first NON-928 I have bought in 22 years!!! All my other cars were company cars NOT owned by me. This is a '97 T-bird...the easiest car I have EVER got in and out of from my wheelchair! I hope I can talk the guy down to something realistic because it is EXACTLY the car I have been looking for...
Here is a shot of it... Pearl White, Tan leather, V8! 88k miles...book value $2500 asking $4700! I saw a '96 that I just missed (but it had cloth and V6) with 16k miles go for $3850 a couple months ago! That would have been a GREAT car to have!
LOL! Yea, Jerry, I just assume everyone is messing with me when I get a bad comment, if they follow it up with a SECOND bad/nasty comment then FIGHTS ON!!!
BTW, we will see if I am any good at the talking people down tomorrow when I go look at a car... Yea, like I need a 9th car!! The second since not having a job no less...what the hell am I thinking! Well, this time it is NOT a 928! It will be the first NON-928 I have bought in 22 years!!! All my other cars were company cars NOT owned by me. This is a '97 T-bird...the easiest car I have EVER got in and out of from my wheelchair! I hope I can talk the guy down to something realistic because it is EXACTLY the car I have been looking for...
Here is a shot of it... Pearl White, Tan leather, V8! 88k miles...book value $2500 asking $4700! I saw a '96 that I just missed (but it had cloth and V6) with 16k miles go for $3850 a couple months ago! That would have been a GREAT car to have!
#35
Rennlist Member
Well, let's all wish Mickster the best on this.
Mickster, you can't go too far wrong. Just have some money in reserve to play with, as the PPI won't find everything.
Mickster, you can't go too far wrong. Just have some money in reserve to play with, as the PPI won't find everything.
#36
Rennlist Member
Great, except in my case the second one was just laughing at the first one and I didn't catch that. I had to call that fight off real quick. Jerry Feather
#37
Nordschleife Master
Given I have two ex-UK cars, which is another wet, salty climate, I figure3d I'd chime in on the rust.
Bill's right, the tank strap is pretty rusty on a relative scale - on Aussie cars, they often have no rust at all. On my '87 which spent 22 years of its life in the UK, I had to replace the tank strap as one leg had rusted through.
That is however the rustiest spot on the car. The only other places where rust is visible on my 87 are the guide for the rear brake hoses (above transmission), the fuel hard-line in the right-rear wheel well (easily removed, cleaned up and painted), and the cross member (easily repainted during engine mount job). I consider myself lucky in that the other hard-lines are in good condition still.
If an inspection doesn't find all those areas to be heavily rusty too, then the car has minimal rust, and a replacement tank strap will clean it up. If they all show signs of heavy rust, I'd walk away.
The other place to check from a salty/wet climate is the rear bottom corner of the quarter windows - if there's any visible rust (even a tiny tiny spot) there, it indicates a re-paint from a hit of some kind, and you can count on the rust behind the window seal being worse than the visible spot.
I would however ask yourself carefully about the interior/exterior condition. If you're after a pristine-looking car, this isn't the one for you, no matter how mechanically sound it is. Its easy to fix up a car that has mechanical faults to be running like it was from factory, but not so easy to fix up a car with paint issues or interior wear.
Personally, I think buyers focus too much on Timing Belt jobs, and frankly any 928 I buy will always have a budget already planned for doing a new timing belt, an intake refresh, and engine mounts. If any of those pass my own inspection after purchase, the money goes towards new shocks.
I've learned that when sellers say it has a new timing belt, it invariably means the tensioner wasn't rebuilt, the cam gears have wear, and the car needs a new timing belt, plus a heap of other related pieces, because even 928-savvy owners don't always have a good mechanical understanding, or a mechanic who will beat them if they don't do it right.
Lastly, the slicking agent sounds like snake oil
Bill's right, the tank strap is pretty rusty on a relative scale - on Aussie cars, they often have no rust at all. On my '87 which spent 22 years of its life in the UK, I had to replace the tank strap as one leg had rusted through.
That is however the rustiest spot on the car. The only other places where rust is visible on my 87 are the guide for the rear brake hoses (above transmission), the fuel hard-line in the right-rear wheel well (easily removed, cleaned up and painted), and the cross member (easily repainted during engine mount job). I consider myself lucky in that the other hard-lines are in good condition still.
If an inspection doesn't find all those areas to be heavily rusty too, then the car has minimal rust, and a replacement tank strap will clean it up. If they all show signs of heavy rust, I'd walk away.
The other place to check from a salty/wet climate is the rear bottom corner of the quarter windows - if there's any visible rust (even a tiny tiny spot) there, it indicates a re-paint from a hit of some kind, and you can count on the rust behind the window seal being worse than the visible spot.
I would however ask yourself carefully about the interior/exterior condition. If you're after a pristine-looking car, this isn't the one for you, no matter how mechanically sound it is. Its easy to fix up a car that has mechanical faults to be running like it was from factory, but not so easy to fix up a car with paint issues or interior wear.
Personally, I think buyers focus too much on Timing Belt jobs, and frankly any 928 I buy will always have a budget already planned for doing a new timing belt, an intake refresh, and engine mounts. If any of those pass my own inspection after purchase, the money goes towards new shocks.
I've learned that when sellers say it has a new timing belt, it invariably means the tensioner wasn't rebuilt, the cam gears have wear, and the car needs a new timing belt, plus a heap of other related pieces, because even 928-savvy owners don't always have a good mechanical understanding, or a mechanic who will beat them if they don't do it right.
Lastly, the slicking agent sounds like snake oil
#38
Nordschleife Master
Hilton,
I agree with you more every day... Taking a mechanically ok car and getting it back to a really nice runner is WAY cheaper than taking a car that has interior and exterior issues and making that car decent to look at! HANDS DOWN! So, buy a decent runner that REALLY LOOKS GREAT and you will be MUCH happier!
I agree with you more every day... Taking a mechanically ok car and getting it back to a really nice runner is WAY cheaper than taking a car that has interior and exterior issues and making that car decent to look at! HANDS DOWN! So, buy a decent runner that REALLY LOOKS GREAT and you will be MUCH happier!
#39
Rennlist Member
Those are great points, above. If its recent work, I've got to go in anyway to confirm and to go in you must disassemble all the way for a clear view.
Add that the metal emissions vapor lines are the first in my opinion to go, before the gas tank straps. About $15 to fix. Unless you hire it out, and that's the main point here. Mickster, if you are going to be **** about the car, and not do your own work, best have another $5 to $8 in reserve for this one. Just depends on how ****. In a good way, of course.
Else your campsite will have unhappy campers.
Add that the metal emissions vapor lines are the first in my opinion to go, before the gas tank straps. About $15 to fix. Unless you hire it out, and that's the main point here. Mickster, if you are going to be **** about the car, and not do your own work, best have another $5 to $8 in reserve for this one. Just depends on how ****. In a good way, of course.
Else your campsite will have unhappy campers.
#40
Nordschleife Master
Hilton,
I agree with you more every day... Taking a mechanically ok car and getting it back to a really nice runner is WAY cheaper than taking a car that has interior and exterior issues and making that car decent to look at! HANDS DOWN! So, buy a decent runner that REALLY LOOKS GREAT and you will be MUCH happier!
I agree with you more every day... Taking a mechanically ok car and getting it back to a really nice runner is WAY cheaper than taking a car that has interior and exterior issues and making that car decent to look at! HANDS DOWN! So, buy a decent runner that REALLY LOOKS GREAT and you will be MUCH happier!
Of course, in my case, the odds of finding another RHD manual car with no sunroof and a digital dash is slim pickings, there being 23 such cars in the world made between 1989 and 1995, so I'm hanging onto what I've got and making do
#41
Nordschleife Master
^^^^^^
Is that right? I would have thought many more than that... Hell, I thought the Sultan of Brunei had at least that many himself...though most of them may be autos...
Is that right? I would have thought many more than that... Hell, I thought the Sultan of Brunei had at least that many himself...though most of them may be autos...
#42
Rennlist Member
The first one of mine had a list of things it needed to have done about three pages long and still has some of the list to be done. Actually I have driven it about 20,ooo miles and still have not adjusted the drive shaft clamp nor replaced the fuel lines.
I hope you get the car for a lot less than $8900, but even at that price I think it is a good deal. Good luck with it if you go for it.
Jerry Feather
#43
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Looks like he's on the jacking point in the rear. The front is wrong.
#45
Rennlist Member
OOOOOO, bad advise. There are just too many threads on this forum about how to adjust the hatch releaso check the tire pressure and if is low walk away because you will never get enough air in there to work properly. DUH