A question for those of you that have done your own engine mounts
04-06-2010, 02:35 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
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OK, I got them in. Took about an hour for the two. Five minutes for the passenger side, the rest of the time for the driver's side.
The passenger side I was able to get started by using a piece of scrap aluminum rod in the hole to bend the bracket into place, then I was able to hammer it through because both ends are pretty easily accessible.
The driver's side I wanted to put back in the way it was when I found it (bolt to the back), since that would make it easier to hammer out next time (the back side is barely accessible from the bottom unless you want to remove the rack entirely.)
As for prybars... when prying OUT, there is nothing local to pry against except the exhaust pipes (bad idea) or heat shield (worse idea). I ended up getting the bolt started by putting a wood block between the edge of the engine mount and a prybar. Then I had to reach down from the top with a hammer to drive it more of the way through. Then reach down from the top with an air ratchet, a long extension, and a U-joint, to screw it most of the way in. Then I had to clip a box-end wrench on the bolt head from the top to hold it while I tightened the nut from the bottom.
I did try loosening the nut holding the bracket to the fender, but there was no way I could get enough torque on it without removing (or gouging!) the valve cover, due to interference with the breaker bar handle.
Thanks guys for the help and moral support.
Cheers,
Paul
The passenger side I was able to get started by using a piece of scrap aluminum rod in the hole to bend the bracket into place, then I was able to hammer it through because both ends are pretty easily accessible.
The driver's side I wanted to put back in the way it was when I found it (bolt to the back), since that would make it easier to hammer out next time (the back side is barely accessible from the bottom unless you want to remove the rack entirely.)
As for prybars... when prying OUT, there is nothing local to pry against except the exhaust pipes (bad idea) or heat shield (worse idea). I ended up getting the bolt started by putting a wood block between the edge of the engine mount and a prybar. Then I had to reach down from the top with a hammer to drive it more of the way through. Then reach down from the top with an air ratchet, a long extension, and a U-joint, to screw it most of the way in. Then I had to clip a box-end wrench on the bolt head from the top to hold it while I tightened the nut from the bottom.
I did try loosening the nut holding the bracket to the fender, but there was no way I could get enough torque on it without removing (or gouging!) the valve cover, due to interference with the breaker bar handle.
Thanks guys for the help and moral support.
Cheers,
Paul
04-06-2010, 03:46 AM
#17
Under the Lift
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When I did this the first time, on my car, I had problems as well. I had somebody help me by using a large punch inserted in the bolt hole to pry the parts into alignment so I could knock the bolt in. Every time I've done this job since, the holes just magically lined up.
04-06-2010, 08:05 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
if these are the ones I an thinking they are. After I did mine some one told me they usually take a grinder the the tip of the bolt and point it just a bit to help it guide into the hole.
No I never leave anything off the car. Even if it is broken and I choose not to fix it, It goes back on the car for the next owner to see exactly how it is on there.
No I never leave anything off the car. Even if it is broken and I choose not to fix it, It goes back on the car for the next owner to see exactly how it is on there.