PHIL928

I did this (all the rubbers) and the first door took me about 4 hours and the second door about an hour. The upper seal is definitely the most difficult, but I did a bit of looking around and found this really great writeup on how to do it:
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...body/trim1.htm
It only took me about 20 minutes to do this seal on the second door. Use some windex on the rubber groove aswell, it dries quickly unlike some of the grease people have been recommending as the rubber tends to pop itself out if it's too slippery.
I hope this helps and the best of luck with your widow seal fitting.

linderpat

thanks guys!

Tony320

This is why I love this forum... 3 years old and still useful today!

ltoolio

And just to keep the "old useful thread" going....

Did this last night following the tips in this post along with the Internet Archive version of the Kondratyev.com post, and was able to get through it pretty quick. Maybe 30 mins?

The key for me was using some to lock the completed portions of the strip in place while I worked through the rest. This prevented it from popping out, and let me shift things a bit if I needed to move it (which I did on a couple of occasions).

linderpat

right here this thread revival was worth it. Very good idea!

StratfordShark

This is the seal I need to do on my S4. On the driver's side the fit of window into seal is nowhere near as good as on passenger side, so I get some wind noise from top of seal that's very noticeable as my ear's so close! Kondratyev's (RIP) write-up great for inserting seal, but what other seals if any need removing prior to installing the window guide? Oh and how much is this seal these days?

Thanks

ltoolio

I removed both the internal door panel and the internal trim that goes around the top of the window (The internal door panel needs to come off to get the top internal trim off, as there is a screw which holds the trim to the door frame, right by the lock post, and that's underneath the door panel).

I'm not sure if it would even be possible to get the channel seal in without removing the inner top window trim. If it was possible, I think it would make the job far more challenging.

I found that getting the internal portion of the channel seal to sit flush against the door was key to getting a good seal on the window itself (the outside portion was key as well).

Once the internal part of the seal flanges sat flush, it would then sit flush in the channel itself. Once that was done, the window fit nicely into the channel.

z driver 88t

Great thread revival. Bought these seals a year ago along with Roger's outer window seals and they've been sitting in my closet because I've been dreading the install.

StratfordShark

Thanks Itoolio. Door panel is easy so will get this seal ordered!

boomboom

G Man, give me a call if you still need help. Been there already.
678-928-1231
Alan

ltoolio

One other thing I did during the reassembly:

I found that a couple of the metal clips that attach the top interior window trim to the door frame had broken away from the trim frame.

I used some epoxy to reattach them, let them dry, then put a coat of epoxy over the area around the clips as well as doing the same on the other clips that didn't break away.

Hopefully a little bit of insurance / strengthening should I ever need to remove the trim again.

Adamant1971

Great thread.

I just did the driver side upper window channel seal on the 89 Euro. Start to finsih was no more than 30 min. I used Dow 111 and only put a very light coat on the outer bead.

I put a finger behind the seal and pinched the bead, then rolled it away from the channel, positioned the bead over the channel and then rolled it into the channel by while pressing with my thumb.