928-specific Porsche factory tool thread
#16
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thanks Rob,
How do you like using this tool opposed to the bar tool? I like the one with the bar going across the head because you set it up once and can do 8 springs. But this other tool seems to be pretty simple assuming you can easily get enough leverage on it with the somewhat small geometry of the tool.
How do you like using this tool opposed to the bar tool? I like the one with the bar going across the head because you set it up once and can do 8 springs. But this other tool seems to be pretty simple assuming you can easily get enough leverage on it with the somewhat small geometry of the tool.
#17
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Ryan-
The Schley bar-style tool is easier to use because of what you say. There's a 3/8" drive square hole in the handle of the Schley setup that allows you to put a cheater bar on it, which makes compressing the springs much easier. Gotta make darn sure the head's clamped to the bench, tho. I think Porsche only intended the 9242 to be used when the heads are still on the engine and the engine's in the car.
The Schley bar-style tool is easier to use because of what you say. There's a 3/8" drive square hole in the handle of the Schley setup that allows you to put a cheater bar on it, which makes compressing the springs much easier. Gotta make darn sure the head's clamped to the bench, tho. I think Porsche only intended the 9242 to be used when the heads are still on the engine and the engine's in the car.
#18
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Can anyone confirm if the pin wrench tool 9190 for removing the fuel sender is the same tool as used for removing the round slotted nuts that hold the breather connections inside the cam cover ? Those things are b-stards to get off- especially the one inserted in the oil separater. I ended up making a tool using a 22mm socket and a disc grinder, it worked great.
#19
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I thought someone did a DIY version "9226 cam removal tool for ’85/’86 cars" a few years back. I'd sure like to borrow a pair or a drawing so I can make my own.
#20
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9235 relay pliers
#22
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000 721 300 00 Saltus 19x 12.5 mm socket- grabs the lugnuts on the flats, not the corners.
#25
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I don't own a set, unfortunately. Anderson has a 9273 at the shop, but it's really the 9274 that is helpful to have. Thing is, in my experience, if the lock ring is too corroded to turn with a big pair of channellock pliers, it'll be too corroded for the 9274 to work. In other words, if the lock ring is stuck, a 9274 isn't going to help matters. I destroyed two lock rings on the set of D90's I restored, which is a bummer, cause they were $26 each in July 2011. Had to hammer them off with a cold chisel and a BFH.
So soak the lock rings with Kroil for a while before you try to turn them with channellocks. And tape the jaws of the pliers, the rings are soft aluminum and get chewed easily.
So soak the lock rings with Kroil for a while before you try to turn them with channellocks. And tape the jaws of the pliers, the rings are soft aluminum and get chewed easily.
#27
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Embarrassed to admit I haven't had time to play with it. Will measure tonight. Not sure whether it'll work on the Cup 4's, those lug holes are narrow!
#29
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Well that's not gone well.....