BC

I have to thank Greg Brown for helping me wrap my *English Major* head around the numbers that are required for timing cams. Its still a work in progress, and I have no finished, but I thought I should mention it.

Secondly, he always mentioned getting a 180 degree timing card/wheel so I can simply look at it to "see" it in my head as to what I was doing. I did not get on, and I really wanted to attempt the process this weekend. So I searched around and found one that should work quite well, that was free, and can be printed on your home printer

http://img20.echo.cx/img20/4583/degreewheel9dg.jpg

If you adjust the size you are printing at your printer preferences, you can print it out to nearly the entire size of your paper. Using photo paper makes it more clear, as well as stiffer so you may not have to put backing on it.

svp928

Brendan, keep in mind that if you miss getting the hole dead-on center by even the width if one line, its going to be inaccurate. Engine shops go to extremes to insure that this wheel is perfectly centered on the crank before timing cams. I don't mean to burn your toast- just be aware of the concentricity requirement...

Steve

BC

Yes. I didn't have toast, though, so don't worry. I didn't even have breakfast - went straight to the garage in my pajamas.

I checked it against the stock dampener. The reason I even am here is because I felt the ATI dampener may have been a bit off from when I was trying to find True TDC. The stock dampener was more accurate, but I needed real numbers (180+180) to do the math the way Greg taught me. The ATI dampener has 360 degrees, which confuses my mind a bit, and the stock one only has a few marks.

So this was my solution. Concentric-wise seems to be okay.

blown 87

The bigger the wheel the better in my book.

svp928

Greg, yeah the older I get, the smaller the damn marks become.....

I likes your other avatar better, fwiw haha!

blown 87

Yea, the bigger the wheel the more accurate it can be, and the numbers are bigger.

I can not remember which one I used for "Avatar Day", I hope this one works for you.

You just know that some one is going to have a issue with it though.

GregBBRD

Now that's a degree wheel!

Do you attach it to the engine or attach the engine to it?

BC

That right there, that's a big degree wheel. Mine is about 8 inches in diameter. If I had to do this alot, I'd get a big one as well, so you don't have to eyeball it. Even better, some sort of digital counter on the pointer pin so you can just turn it and look at a big digital screen.

I now have the engine so both intakes are about 122 or so center lobe. The Cams are S3, so that's about 1.5 retarded, from my training. I was going to go for 3 retarded, but I will probably set here and go forward with the build. The software showed the best power at 3 degrees retarded, but The real world may be different.

blown 87

One thing I like about it is that you can buy a bunch of different adapters for it that lock the adapter onto the crank and then adjust it with out loosing it position very easy.

SeanR

I gotta get one of those just to hang on the wall, so it looks like I know what I'm doing.

blown 87

That is why I got it, looks cool.

blown 87

Well that did not take long.

danglerb

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62191/10002/-1?CT=999

BC

Seriously? Well, we have narrowed it down to someone in THIS forum.

Dennis K

3° retarded from split overlap or 3° retarded from Porsche's timing?

Porsche settings for S3 cams are already 6.5° retarded (intake at 120.5°, lobe separation of 114°). W/ the intake cam at 122° ATDC, the cams are 1.5° retarded from the factory setting, 8° total.