I have exhausted all efforts still NO START... FIXED!!!
#31
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Reston VA
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I jumpered both the injection and fuel pump relays already before the new relays went in. The "Y" on the L-jet (30 to 87,87) and fuel pump (30 to 87). same problem.
#32
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
With the engine off and the pump jumpered, what pressure are you seeing at the rail?
#34
Rennlist Member
Take the distributor cap off and check every contact with a multimeter for resistance. Had a similar problem with a 944 Turbo.
Turned out to be a bad distributor. The center pin that rotates on top of the rotor made no internal contact to the wire that comes from the ignition coil.
The car started fine and died after a couple of seconds. The reason is the amount of voltage generated by the coil. First very high and sufficient to bridge the bad connection. After some sparks the voltage goes down and is to small to fire the plugs.
Keep on posting what you find...
Turned out to be a bad distributor. The center pin that rotates on top of the rotor made no internal contact to the wire that comes from the ignition coil.
The car started fine and died after a couple of seconds. The reason is the amount of voltage generated by the coil. First very high and sufficient to bridge the bad connection. After some sparks the voltage goes down and is to small to fire the plugs.
Keep on posting what you find...
#35
Rennlist Member
If it won't run with ether it's an ignition problem. Check out my 16v ignition troubleshooting guide and see if anything turns up.
#36
Rennlist Member
likely too simple, but did you unseat and reseat the big black brain connector?
On our Blue Car, had identical "start for a second issue" that we could not resolve. My son found that he accidentally hit the metal spring retainer to the plug while changing relays. Although it seemed "in" after numerous checks, he popped it out and back in to get the click...fired right up.
Oh, and you won't trigger metal detectors
On our Blue Car, had identical "start for a second issue" that we could not resolve. My son found that he accidentally hit the metal spring retainer to the plug while changing relays. Although it seemed "in" after numerous checks, he popped it out and back in to get the click...fired right up.
Oh, and you won't trigger metal detectors
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Reston VA
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I'm at the shop and I just put the new starter in since I thought the old one crapped out and it's still dead. Just makes one click. Could this be a bad coil now? I'm extremely frustrated and need to walk away from this car. I'm ready to send it to the yard. I can't even get it to turn over now, I'm a pretty good wrench but this thing has me throwing tools.
#39
Rennlist Member
Well with that particular snippet of behavior I'd suspect ground strap.
I'd measure voltage across battery + to - .
Then measure battery + to body, say, bolt on top of shock tower.
Then I'd replace it with a Advance Auto $7 strap anyway.
I'd measure voltage across battery + to - .
Then measure battery + to body, say, bolt on top of shock tower.
Then I'd replace it with a Advance Auto $7 strap anyway.
#42
Race Director
Chewy
Hang in there...the click typically means the battery is low..
back to the poor running issue.....here is what I see:
1: the car is firing off the cold start injector ONLY...which tells me that the ignition system must be working, since it does fire on the cold start?
2: the L jet brain (for whatever reason) is not firing the injectors.....
The easy test for this theory is to pull the plug on the L jet brain and start the car....I'd bet it doesn't change a darn thing.....which answers your problem.....I have never heard of a dead L jet brain..but it has to be possible....
When the lemons racer was being moody with the temp II....it would fire, stumble then die...regardless of if the L jet was hooked up or not.....since the L jet system and cold start are totally seperate....
Hang in there...the click typically means the battery is low..
back to the poor running issue.....here is what I see:
1: the car is firing off the cold start injector ONLY...which tells me that the ignition system must be working, since it does fire on the cold start?
2: the L jet brain (for whatever reason) is not firing the injectors.....
The easy test for this theory is to pull the plug on the L jet brain and start the car....I'd bet it doesn't change a darn thing.....which answers your problem.....I have never heard of a dead L jet brain..but it has to be possible....
When the lemons racer was being moody with the temp II....it would fire, stumble then die...regardless of if the L jet was hooked up or not.....since the L jet system and cold start are totally seperate....
#43
Team Owner
check the hot post 14 pin connector take off the back of the covers and inspect the wires for crumbling insulation and clean the pins, take a battery jumper cable and go from battery ground terminal to a chassis ground and see if it starts/ cranks
#45
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Reston VA
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The brand new battery read 11.9v from + to - post. I'm trying to get a friend over so I can have them hit the ignition and see what kind of juice is getting to the starter if any in the start position. It's definately getting constant 12 volts. I'm beginning to wonder if the ignition was the original issue causing it to stall and it now has crapped out all together. This thing should run great after I've replaced everything!