There is a U joint just in front of the tranny, there is ball cup at the front of the linkage and there is the joint where the shift lever connects to the front and rear rods. They all have plastic parts that go bad after a while.

 

Sorry I missed this post earlier. Drilling on-center & to size for the larger ball would have left 40% of the circumference without threads. Also, while it may not look like it from the pic, there is a big gouge deep into the face of the BH where the ball should seat. It would require welding to fill bot the hole and the surface, then milling flat and re-drilling to make it right(MY definition of "right") and at $75 for a used BH it was just easier to go that route since I already had the drivetrain out.

If you want the one pictured it's yours for shipping. I was thinking of decorating my new garage with it in some way but I'm not attached to it...

 

This does not sound good at all. Can you post a pic? That rectangular hole is not an inspection hole, it is a clearance hole for the release arm. The idea that something would be welded over the hole sounds very suspicious.

Next to the clutch page I directed you to is a page that goes into excruciating detail on the shift linkage. The front ball cup on the linkage is the most common problem with the linkage, when the plastic liner on the cup disintegrates it will create a lot of fore-aft play at the lever.

The small bushings on the shifter itself can disintegrate and cause extra play in all directions, but usually not a lot.

The "U-joint" at the rear(it's actually more like half a u-joint) has two large plastic bushings that get beat and loosened over time, this can cause significant play in the shifter in all directions. This last coupler is fairly easy to check, though the rubber boot that is supposed to protect it from the elements may be difficult to remove without damaging it(if it's even there at this point).

Assuming the linkage is working "well enough" the test for a dragging clutch is this: Engine at idle in neutral, disengage(press down) the clutch. Count two seconds, then try to engage reverse. If it grinds, your clutch is dragging. If it does not grind, clutch is OK. Note to future readers, this test is not necessarily valid on later transmissions that have a synchro for reverse('84+ IIRC).

Even my freshly rebuilt early trans can be stiff getting into gear at times, but doesn't grind. Nature of the beast, I'm told. The problem may be bad synchros in your transmission, all too common on cars that have had the clutch dragging.

 

Thanks for the offer, but if that thing showed up at my house my wife would just hit me over the head with it.

 

I thought you might say something like that...

 

The idle to reverse test passes. It drops right in gear. I think it was a bubble or a pedal reload. Here are the pictures of the bell housing.

 

I don't know what that is, but it's definitely not stock. It seems that on this car at some point the ball was destroyed and someone welded a piece of metal there instead with another ball? But it looks reversed somehow?

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

 

Agree, that's a hack. Apparently it works though... Anyway, you have the later style release arm, so the TO bearing has been changed at some point. Part of me says fix it right, but on the practical sidde there's something to be said for leaving well enough alone if it's working properly.