Andre Hedrick

Friday night after the Norcal928 GTG, grease emptied out of my inner CV's and painted the under body, and finally started to rattle some

So this is part a call for our 928 healer (Mr Bill Ball) and a call for help as I don't know if I can driver her anywhere far. Maybe just out of the garage and back in to center her for repairs.

How does one tell how much damage is done and how far one can drive to get to a lift?

Landseer

By a boot/grease/clamp kit and a couple gallons of mineral spirits and a couple of big rubbermaid tubs.

Take a day, clean, repack, keep right and left separate, rebuild, switch sides on installation.

Or just take it to somebody.

JHowell37

If the CV joints themselves are still in good condition, remove them, clean them, and replace all four boots.

ammonman

No way to tell about damage until you get the axles out and the joints apart. As long as the *****, cages, and spiders are not damaged you should be fine to clean, re-pack, and fit new boots. How long have you driven with no grease and torn boots on the joints?

Mike

Andre Hedrick

Boots are fine, the grease squeezed out where the gasket is between the axle and CV.

Look and comment please.

Landseer

The way it leaked would prevent grit intrusion.

However, the comment about noise has me thinking you should flush and repack.


Gaskets should come with the boots.

You alternatively might be able to retrofit the 85+ caps instead of gaskets.

JHowell37

If grease is escaping the gaskets are most definitely bad. You may want to check to see how tight the bolts are on the axle. If they're loose, that will allow enough of a gap to open up and allow grease to leak. If they started rattling and grease started leaking at or about the same time, then you should definitely check to see how tight the bolts are. If they get loose the axle can rattle.

Ducman82

id rebuild. i just did mine. cheaper.

Landseer

I've done 5 sets in the last 12 months. I'd rebuild whenever possible. Now, if you have a set where the ***** are blue and/or the ball tracks are pitted, different issue.

Tails

+1 on checking the torque on the inner allen headed set bolts. If the bolts are loose you will get a rattle.

Check all the torques related to the drive half shafts as a precaution.

Have the CV been 'overpacked' with grease? Porsche stipulate a specific amount of grease and it comes in a tube when a boot kit is purchased. Check the WSM.

When were the boots renewed, as you say they are OK? This will determine whether it is worth renewing all the boots. They are relatively cheap, so if you are condisering overhauling all the CV joint, renew the boot regardless.

Now that the grease has come out, the CV leaking joints should be opened out, cleaned , inspected for damage and wear and repacked, ensuring that they are reassembled the correct way.

Again +1 to Landseer's suggestion to change the drive shafts around, so as to get the reverse side (less wear) into the driving side of the CV joint.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

Andre Hedrick

Okay, now the dumb question (cause I did not search the forum) what size is the tool needed to torque or remove the bolts? Also I have 88s4 5speed in my '81, so can I use the newer axles?

ammonman

I think you are ok to use the newer shafts. You can't use older style bolted-on-both-ends in a newer that '82 car. I can't remember the allen size for the retaining bolts. The self locking nut that holds the axle stub into the hub carrier is 32mm IIRC.

JHowell37

You need an 8mm allen head for the bolts. You may wish to find one as a socket, but avoid Craftsman. Their allen sockets are ****. I got a 3/8" drive 8mm allen socket from Snap-On last year. They specifically advertise it as being used for tightening those bolts on some European cars.

Andre Hedrick

CRAP mine are bolted on both ends! So now the fun part to do another upgrade ...

~hello mr wallet?~
*how far will old lint go, boss?*

Time to work harder and get a CAP award at work to fund this adventure before CA Emissions time.

chewy8000

I rebuild my CV axle ends on my race car (95' VW golf) a few times a year. CV axles are easy to rebuild and most vendors sell the ends complete with the ***** already in the carriers. Put the whole axle in a vise remove c-clamp and gently tap the CV end off with a brass drift pin. Pack the new joint with ALOT of redline cv axle grease and tap the new unit on. Make sure you slide the boot and clamp on first for re-assembly and stuff the boot with grease as well.

The problem with brand new fully assembled axles is 99% of them are rebuilds and are junk. They bore out the carriers and install new larger *****. I use these axles for backups since they usually don't last a race but good for emergencies to get through a race weekend.