neilh

No O2 sensor, original euro brains as far as i can tell. It has been licensed here in CA since around mid 80's ( it was imported to CA) and first failed smog in 2007 - so i can be made to pass - I hope.

neilh

Update - I have the wideband O2 sensor and LM-1 ( Innovate) installed - ran until at normal temp, at idle AFR is right on 14.7. As soon as i open up on the gas it jumps up to around 16.2 way lean -- off gas - back below 14 .3 for a second or so, then right back to 14.7. Swapped out MAF with a new one PO gave me, and exactly the same, MAF adjustment is now right at max - 1,000 ohms. Put my vacuum gauge on vac lines, holding good when idling, drops of course when i hit the gas, but comes right back - gas sniffer ( gunson) says 3.5%.
Whats next?

BC

Neil - its time to adjust the plate on the CIS assembly. Get the car to richen up.

neilh

Brendan, not CIS - its an 84.

BC

DOH! I forgot. I SAW the damn car and I forgot. Minus 10 man points.

That IS weird.

neilh

Brendan, LOL _ i know what you mean!
As i adjust the maf resistance down it gets much worse - goes to about 17.5:1, starts to run really rough and stumbles as i give it gas.
I noticed the plugs are W8DC's, i recall a euro should have w7's - can that be the problem - plugs not hot enough?

dr bob

Neil--

Because there is no CO feedback on these Euro cars, the injectors need to be scrupulously clean. I have James' '85 Euro here, and I'm getting ready to do an on-the-car injector cleaning to see if I can recover some lost performance. I don't have the wideband sensor or meter that you have, so it's based on symptoms and telltales for me. There's another local Euro owner who suffered a similar set of symptoms a few years ago, cured when I suggested he go to The Master (Greg Brown) for diagnosis. Greg ended up removing and cleaning all the injectors to restore the lost performance. In that case as in ours, the car spent a long time in hibernation, and wouldn't fully wake up until the varnish and other deposits were cleared from the nozzles.

I'm using a clone of BG pressure flush tool, and plan to do the deed this weekend if I can wangle some play time, maybe tomorrow. I'll post results to the original purchase thread. Karen has "recommended" that I get that car out of the driveway soon, so I'm going to leverage that a little for time to work on it.

neilh

Thanks Bob. The car is definitely running better each time i take it out, - I dumped a couple of bottles of FI cleaner in as well and premium gas - so i'm going to give it a good blast up I15 this morning and see what the AFR does . What about the plugs - any advantage to going to the WR7's?

dr bob

In Bosch the higher number is a hotter plug. Look at the plug tips to see if it's wrong after you get the mixture dialed in and have some runtime on it. The '85 Euro in the driveway here has WR8DS plugs in it, same heat range but the silver tips. For those playing along at home, the NGK plugs get colder with a higher number. BPR6ES is roughly the equivalent of a WR7DC/WR8DC, IIRC.

Lizard928

Check that the vacuum line going to the FPR and Dampers is connected to the correct vacuum nipple on the throttlebody.

As well ohm out the temp II sensor.

docmirror

Back the timing down, and if you can enrich it slightly it'll pass. Combustion temps are too high due to lean condition.

neilh

How do you check the timiing on a dual dizzy Auto 84 Euro? The smog check says the timing was 21deg - but doesn't say at what RPM.

Bill51sdr

Neil, do not use premium gas for your re-test, or in general unless your engine requires it. It will not help & may in fact contribute to failure (especially Nox and HC).

neilh

Good point Bill, I'm not sure what is in there now - Po had filled the tank just before i picked up the car and i didn't ask.

GregBBRD

I would think that lower octane would raise the combustion chamber temperature and thus raise the NOX?