Help How to remove the Bowden cable bolt on the bellhousing
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Help How to remove the Bowden cable bolt on the bellhousing
What have you used to remove the Bowden cable allen bolt on the bellhousing from the top of the engine? Didn't want to budge with my allen wrench, can't get the 3/8" allen socket on it.
Do I need to cut down the allen wrench, mine looks to be twisting.
Thanks
Do I need to cut down the allen wrench, mine looks to be twisting.
Thanks
#2
Nordschleife Master
Every single one of these that I have attacked just stripped. You will need to either drop the entire assembly out and use a proper socket on an impact gun. Or you will need to use a bolt extractor (craftsman) and put a big wrench on it.
#3
Team Owner
The only thought i had was to try using a pin torch to heat the bolt and spray on PB blaster.
I know this could be a dangerous place for a fire so have a fire extinguisher handy.
If its possible try also a sharp chisle and hammer applied to the side of the bolt head and above all else make sure the allen you use is hi quality and is fully seated, the shorter the allen the less flex it will have, you might get lucky and get it out
I know this could be a dangerous place for a fire so have a fire extinguisher handy.
If its possible try also a sharp chisle and hammer applied to the side of the bolt head and above all else make sure the allen you use is hi quality and is fully seated, the shorter the allen the less flex it will have, you might get lucky and get it out
#4
Under the Lift
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You may have a better shot at it from underneath after removing the lower bellhousing cover - my memory of that is not clear. It would still take some gymnastics to get at that bracket fastener.
To get the best access you may have to remove the bellhousing as Lizard mentioned. This requires loosening and sliding the TT and tranny back to gain enough room to get the bellhousing off the locator pins and a bit of maneuvering to get the bellhousing down. To get the tranny back enough, you need to unfasten the parking brake brackets from the rear crossmember and pull the cable/bracket down as well as unfasten the shifter cable and move one or two of the fluid hoses off some routing brackets to gain more slack to allow the tranny to slide back further. Of course, the exhaust and heatshields need to come off first. It's a bit tricky, but the bellhousing can be dropped if needed (BTDT).
Hopefully you won't need to do this.
To get the best access you may have to remove the bellhousing as Lizard mentioned. This requires loosening and sliding the TT and tranny back to gain enough room to get the bellhousing off the locator pins and a bit of maneuvering to get the bellhousing down. To get the tranny back enough, you need to unfasten the parking brake brackets from the rear crossmember and pull the cable/bracket down as well as unfasten the shifter cable and move one or two of the fluid hoses off some routing brackets to gain more slack to allow the tranny to slide back further. Of course, the exhaust and heatshields need to come off first. It's a bit tricky, but the bellhousing can be dropped if needed (BTDT).
Hopefully you won't need to do this.
#5
Rennlist Member
I concur with Bill, I seem to recall access wasn't bad if you remove the lower BH cover and reach up through the access hole in the top of the bell housing.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I thought it might be easier from the top.
I had decent access with the intake off. The next job is to drop the tranny and TT. Going to put the 89 LSD in, rebuild the TT with Constantine's bearings and clamp. I will attack it from the bottom. May need the bolt extractor, worked great on the trans bellhousing bolts.
I also need to do the Boges and Eibach springs.
Cheers
I had decent access with the intake off. The next job is to drop the tranny and TT. Going to put the 89 LSD in, rebuild the TT with Constantine's bearings and clamp. I will attack it from the bottom. May need the bolt extractor, worked great on the trans bellhousing bolts.
I also need to do the Boges and Eibach springs.
Cheers
#7
Under the Lift
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With the TT out, then dropping the bellhousing is relatively trivial, as long as you have a LONG 19mm (3/4") wrench to reach the upper bellhousing bolts.
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#8
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
I got the upper bellhousing bolts off from the top. When the fuel lines to the cooler is off, it's fairly east to get to. For the kickdown bracket, I had to grind down an allen socket to 1/4", or else it would interfere with the floor pan.