How do you feel about Dielectric Grease?
#1
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This grease can attract dust on some occasions, but is routinely used in ignition wires. How about using a little on terminals inside connectors? Will a conservative amount of it improve conductivity and continuity in connections?
#2
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A dielectric is a non-conductor, or acts as an insulator. It will not improve conductivity on anything. Use it to keep out moisture, and lubricate rubber/plastic covers.
#3
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Dielectric Grease is non-conductive and does NOT improve conductivity or continuity of electricity.
The main thing it does is provide a water barrier, ie., keeps moisture from fouling the connection and prevents corrosion of the metal bits. It also transmits heat well so is often used between high heat transistors and chips and their heat sink.
The main thing it does is provide a water barrier, ie., keeps moisture from fouling the connection and prevents corrosion of the metal bits. It also transmits heat well so is often used between high heat transistors and chips and their heat sink.
#4
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Considering I have condensation under the dash (will attempt to locate the source), I was considering using it on some connectors under the dash that I saw traces of it on in order to prevent anymore electrical issues with gauges and such.
#5
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sounds like its exactly what you need
#6
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Dave Helms, a top Ferrari guru, has made some strong cases against ever using dielectric grease (and soldering crimp joints, he says no solder). Here is a snip-it from one if his posts:
Here is a thread on a Testarossa fuse panel he rebuilt:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=257505
I would just skip down and read Dave's posts, the thread turned into a train wreck......
This is his shop:
http://www.scuderiarampante.com/photos.html
What about using dielectric grease on all the connectors?
Thats one of the causes of the problems. NO GREASE!!! Dry when dealing with precious metal connections.
Thats the problem, grease was used and is the swill that can be seen on the connector. Ask anyone in the industry, Aero Space, Military....NO GREASE! In this case the grease held the moisture in and against the connections and wire. You can see what is happening to the wires, imagine the connectors on them!
I posted in another thread a little while back.... My father (a EE working in the Apollo program) told me of how the Apollo Command Module was having electrical gremlins and it was found to be due to condensation and greased connections. Dielectric grease has hydroscopic tendencies...give it a source of water and it does well at holding it in place. It was in the Apollo era that a change was made in the AeroSpace industry to using Gold plated connectors and assembling every thing dry crimped. Hmmm, pretty close to 40 yrs later we are getting around to follwing their lead.
Thats the problem, grease was used and is the swill that can be seen on the connector. Ask anyone in the industry, Aero Space, Military....NO GREASE! In this case the grease held the moisture in and against the connections and wire. You can see what is happening to the wires, imagine the connectors on them!
I posted in another thread a little while back.... My father (a EE working in the Apollo program) told me of how the Apollo Command Module was having electrical gremlins and it was found to be due to condensation and greased connections. Dielectric grease has hydroscopic tendencies...give it a source of water and it does well at holding it in place. It was in the Apollo era that a change was made in the AeroSpace industry to using Gold plated connectors and assembling every thing dry crimped. Hmmm, pretty close to 40 yrs later we are getting around to follwing their lead.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=257505
I would just skip down and read Dave's posts, the thread turned into a train wreck......
This is his shop:
http://www.scuderiarampante.com/photos.html
#7
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I'd think that if dielectric grease was hydroscopic, it wouldn't be recommended for non-conductive purposes.
Dielectric grease is a form of silicone grease. Most brake fluid (glycol based) is hydroscopic. Silicone based brake fluids are generally not considered hydroscopic.
Dielectric grease is a form of silicone grease. Most brake fluid (glycol based) is hydroscopic. Silicone based brake fluids are generally not considered hydroscopic.
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#8
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I'm familiar with the fuse block issues on 80's Ferraris (Uncle is ex-Ferrari mechanic) and said the design was bad from the start.
I guess I'll just clean the connections with rubbing alcohol, brass brush and emery cloth then. Thanks for the feedback.
I guess I'll just clean the connections with rubbing alcohol, brass brush and emery cloth then. Thanks for the feedback.
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I tried to do a search and I'm coming up blank, there was some other chemical (not cheap) that has been recomended for cleaning electrical parts.
Anyone have that link??
Anyone have that link??
#10
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DeOxit? Stabilant?
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Stabilant cleans and protects against future corrosion, DeOxit is more of a just cleaner.
In either case a spray protectant can also be used where practical after mating the connectors. This is useful only for connectors that are infrequently unplugged - since you really need to clean after every detach and protect after every reattach. Overall I think Stabilant with no additional protective treatment is probably the most practical.
If you are getting moisture on your fuse panel fix that problem first.
Alan
In either case a spray protectant can also be used where practical after mating the connectors. This is useful only for connectors that are infrequently unplugged - since you really need to clean after every detach and protect after every reattach. Overall I think Stabilant with no additional protective treatment is probably the most practical.
If you are getting moisture on your fuse panel fix that problem first.
Alan
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Confusion on terminolgy-- Hygroscopic means it will attract and retain moisture.
I use Vaseline on battery connections to protect them from chemical attack from stray acid fumes in the battery well. If you've looked at those felt washers that are sold at battery places, and actually read the instructions, they tell you to wet the pad with something like ATF, so the lubricant can wick up into a post connection and keep fumes out of any voids.
Unless there's a need for high-voltage flashover protection, no need or desire for dielectric grease. So --maybe-- in the ends of spark plug boots, definitely not on the metal connection parts at all, and the rubber boots may slide off more easily. Plug wre boots have come a long way, and unless you are planning a U-boat mission there really isn't undue risk of getting the plug wells full of water on a 928.
Ryan--
Many of the wire connectors in the cars are either gold plated, or tin over brass, or raw brass. Th plated connectors are self-wiping, so every time they are disconnected and reconnected, a thin layer of the surface coating is scraped off and there's new metal to carry the load. Only the raw brass or copper should be mechanically cleaned with the wire brush, and there's no place for emery cloth around electrical connections. Most emery cloth has aluminum oxide for the abrasive, and you really don't want dust from that in your electrical gear. If there's something that needs sanding, use sandpaper, the flint paper stuff, instead.
I use Vaseline on battery connections to protect them from chemical attack from stray acid fumes in the battery well. If you've looked at those felt washers that are sold at battery places, and actually read the instructions, they tell you to wet the pad with something like ATF, so the lubricant can wick up into a post connection and keep fumes out of any voids.
Unless there's a need for high-voltage flashover protection, no need or desire for dielectric grease. So --maybe-- in the ends of spark plug boots, definitely not on the metal connection parts at all, and the rubber boots may slide off more easily. Plug wre boots have come a long way, and unless you are planning a U-boat mission there really isn't undue risk of getting the plug wells full of water on a 928.
Ryan--
Many of the wire connectors in the cars are either gold plated, or tin over brass, or raw brass. Th plated connectors are self-wiping, so every time they are disconnected and reconnected, a thin layer of the surface coating is scraped off and there's new metal to carry the load. Only the raw brass or copper should be mechanically cleaned with the wire brush, and there's no place for emery cloth around electrical connections. Most emery cloth has aluminum oxide for the abrasive, and you really don't want dust from that in your electrical gear. If there's something that needs sanding, use sandpaper, the flint paper stuff, instead.
#13
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I use three different products on electrical connections. Caig Labs makes DeoxIT D5, which is an excellent cleaner, and ProGold G5, which is a "contact enhancer" and preservative. Both work well.
Stabilant is a "contact cleaner and enhancer", with a very good reputation in military electronics and audiophile electronics. It ain't cheap...
Google is your friend.
Stabilant is a "contact cleaner and enhancer", with a very good reputation in military electronics and audiophile electronics. It ain't cheap...
Google is your friend.
#14
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I put Stabilant 22a on every male terminal and relay terminal on the CE panel in the GT, using a little foam tip applicator thingee. I think I ended up using about a ml of the 5x diluted stuff (diluted in pure isopropanol), maybe $10 worth?