Repairing Transmission Cooler lines?
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Repairing Transmission Cooler lines?
Has any body ever replaced the rubber parts of the cooler lines?
I do not want to remove the to take them to the hydraulic shop.
I am looking for a temporary repair as I have 95% of the parts needed to do a 5 speed conversion.
My transmission guy says if the have barbs on the metal lines then I can just use cooler lines and hose clamps, if not I need to use brass couplings that have barbs on the ends, a compression type fitting.
I know this is not the best way to do it, but I do not want to spend the time or the money to do lines when they are not going to be there but a couple of more months.
Thanks
I do not want to remove the to take them to the hydraulic shop.
I am looking for a temporary repair as I have 95% of the parts needed to do a 5 speed conversion.
My transmission guy says if the have barbs on the metal lines then I can just use cooler lines and hose clamps, if not I need to use brass couplings that have barbs on the ends, a compression type fitting.
I know this is not the best way to do it, but I do not want to spend the time or the money to do lines when they are not going to be there but a couple of more months.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,301
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From: Philly PA
I would NOT go for any half way fixes here as the cooler lines are a known fire hazard.
Better to remove them take to a hose shop and have new hi pressure hydro line installed then covered with the heat resistant wrap.
I had a set done for 145.00 . this included the 4 flexible hoses and covering for all 4
Pay careful attention to the front portions where the lines go over the cats, this is the fire hazard.
You could always sell the lines after you remove them
Better to remove them take to a hose shop and have new hi pressure hydro line installed then covered with the heat resistant wrap.
I had a set done for 145.00 . this included the 4 flexible hoses and covering for all 4
Pay careful attention to the front portions where the lines go over the cats, this is the fire hazard.
You could always sell the lines after you remove them
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From: Manchester,NH
Greg, I have been doing this for many years now. Some customers cannot afford the new line or time doesnt allow waiting for the part. I have never seen a hydraulic hose without a barbed end or lip. When repairing a section of rusted line, I cut and flare the end. Always use trans cooler hose and double clamp. A drop of red loctiite on clamps prevents loosening. Many trans cooler lines come from the factory with hose clamps.
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
I had one just re done for an '89. Passanger side lower end tank hose.
It was a bit of a pain to pull it over the motor mounts but once you figure out how to feed it through, it's fairly simple to put back. Then took it to a hydraulic shop and they replaces the ruber line for a whopping $16.
It was a bit of a pain to pull it over the motor mounts but once you figure out how to feed it through, it's fairly simple to put back. Then took it to a hydraulic shop and they replaces the ruber line for a whopping $16.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Greg, I have been doing this for many years now. Some customers cannot afford the new line or time doesnt allow waiting for the part. I have never seen a hydraulic hose without a barbed end or lip. When repairing a section of rusted line, I cut and flare the end. Always use trans cooler hose and double clamp. A drop of red loctiite on clamps prevents loosening. Many trans cooler lines come from the factory with hose clamps.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Anaheim
Greg:
I redo the lines in Goodridge 910 PTFE hose with the Kevlar outer...if you want hoses that will still be intact when you retire...but not cheap!
I've never seen a clamped transmission hose that doesn't leak, after a year or two. I think there is some serious pressure and pulsations in those lines. However, it should work fine, short term.
I agree with Paul that you should double clamp them. I'd use 360 degree German style crimp clamps.
I redo the lines in Goodridge 910 PTFE hose with the Kevlar outer...if you want hoses that will still be intact when you retire...but not cheap!
I've never seen a clamped transmission hose that doesn't leak, after a year or two. I think there is some serious pressure and pulsations in those lines. However, it should work fine, short term.
I agree with Paul that you should double clamp them. I'd use 360 degree German style crimp clamps.
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