simulating CAD plating on fuel lines
#1
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simulating CAD plating on fuel lines
I am doing a refresh of my intake, fuel lines, fuel rails, etc. and was searching for a product to simulate the CAD plating color.
I found this product on Eastwood's site, they supply a lot of stuff for car restorations. anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
I found this product on Eastwood's site, they supply a lot of stuff for car restorations. anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
#2
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I found this product on Eastwood's site, they supply a lot of stuff for car restorations. anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
POR-15 makes a clear for metal that is also very good and maybe more durable.
Matt
#3
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Local engine guru Greg Brown found a local plater that does yellow zinc plating in batches big or small for a good price per batch. The results are more yellow than the original cad plating, but overall look a whole lot better than the typically faded cad on most engines. Problem is that it's like cleaning just one little spot on the carpet where the wine spilled. So doing 'just' the fuel lines may not make you happy overall.
Look for a local plater who will do your stuff on a batch basis. Rob Edwards' GT motor pictures show his results, by the way. But do as much as you can all at once. Fuel lines and fuel rails, all the little metal brackets, hose clamps, nuts-bolts-washers, etc. Fo a batch plating effort if I lived where I had winter idle time for the car, all the suspension and wheelwell steel hardware, right down to the screws that hold the plastic bits on, would be in that batch. It makes an amazing improvement in overall car appearance.
Look for a local plater who will do your stuff on a batch basis. Rob Edwards' GT motor pictures show his results, by the way. But do as much as you can all at once. Fuel lines and fuel rails, all the little metal brackets, hose clamps, nuts-bolts-washers, etc. Fo a batch plating effort if I lived where I had winter idle time for the car, all the suspension and wheelwell steel hardware, right down to the screws that hold the plastic bits on, would be in that batch. It makes an amazing improvement in overall car appearance.
#4
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I bought the Eastwood Copy Cad setup and tried it on a piece or two- Maybe I didn't do it right but the finish is nowhere near reflective enough compared to freshly plated parts. It ends up looking like gold metalflake spray paint with read and green highlights. It'd be fine on the brake booster in your '62 Chrysler MaxWedge, but not ok in a 928 engine compartment.
#5
I am doing a refresh of my intake, fuel lines, fuel rails, etc. and was searching for a product to simulate the CAD plating color.
I found this product on Eastwood's site, they supply a lot of stuff for car restorations. anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
I found this product on Eastwood's site, they supply a lot of stuff for car restorations. anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-c...ond-clear.html
#6
I have some powder coated black hard fuel and smog lines sitting in a box. I replaced everything with braided fuel lines and AN fittings down to the firewall. Let me know if your interested in the them.
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thanks for the replies.
so far I cannot find anyone in the Cincinnati area that can/will do a CAD like replate. I have heard they cannot use CAD in the US any longer, but a yellow zinc plating is very similar.
I have been afraid to try to paint these parts trying to dupicate CAD. afraid they will come out too gold , the alternative would be black. currently I have the rails, fuel lines, intake, and almost all the hose clamps off.
I am planning to paint the spider intake a red as similar to the red in the Porsche hood crest I got to replace the aluminum crest using caliper paint.
I considered powdercoating but after already spending more than my original budget with Roger I need to go a more cost effective route for this part. I got a serious infection of while-you-are-at-it'itis once I started with the intent to replace just the rubber fuel lines.
my 928 is a semi daily driver and I am not trying (cannot afford) to turn it into the 'work of art' I see from some on the forum. but after all the work I want it to look as good as I am able/can afford.
so far I cannot find anyone in the Cincinnati area that can/will do a CAD like replate. I have heard they cannot use CAD in the US any longer, but a yellow zinc plating is very similar.
I have been afraid to try to paint these parts trying to dupicate CAD. afraid they will come out too gold , the alternative would be black. currently I have the rails, fuel lines, intake, and almost all the hose clamps off.
I am planning to paint the spider intake a red as similar to the red in the Porsche hood crest I got to replace the aluminum crest using caliper paint.
I considered powdercoating but after already spending more than my original budget with Roger I need to go a more cost effective route for this part. I got a serious infection of while-you-are-at-it'itis once I started with the intent to replace just the rubber fuel lines.
my 928 is a semi daily driver and I am not trying (cannot afford) to turn it into the 'work of art' I see from some on the forum. but after all the work I want it to look as good as I am able/can afford.
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#8
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Rob, when you tried the Eastwood CAD paint, did you also use the diamond clear coat? when talking to the guy at Eastwood, he commented the clear is what helps make it look closest to the shiny original plating. they have a kit with and without the diamond clear.
thanks again for the advice. I will be posting pics.
thanks again for the advice. I will be posting pics.
#9
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I confess that I didn't get as far as the diamond clear, so that could be the reason. I have plenty of pieces to practice on, perhaps I'll give it another shot.
#10
I did almost all my cad parts with the eastwood stuff. You can match it pretty good after you get the nack.
I would say you deffinately need the clear to get the shine.
But im not too satisfied with the result mainly because it will scratch off so easily. If you can get some real plating done, its a better solution.
I would say you deffinately need the clear to get the shine.
But im not too satisfied with the result mainly because it will scratch off so easily. If you can get some real plating done, its a better solution.
#11
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I use the Caswell copy cad yellow zinc plating kit. My hard CIS lines are too big to fit in reasonably sized buckets so I am planning to:
-strip them by brushing on battery acid. I normally dunk parts into a small cup of acid, but brushing also works, though it takes more time.
-plate them with the Caswell the brush 'plug and plate' zinc kit.
-sponge on the Caswell yellow faux chromate.
-strip them by brushing on battery acid. I normally dunk parts into a small cup of acid, but brushing also works, though it takes more time.
-plate them with the Caswell the brush 'plug and plate' zinc kit.
-sponge on the Caswell yellow faux chromate.
#12
Are there any updates of experience using the Eastwood kit or other alternatives to sending parts out for plating. I'm interested in a nice job while doing the intake refresh but not looking for concourse - she's a nice dd.
#13
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I've got many fuel lines already plated in gold zinc If you take a picture of the pieces you want to replace, I can see if I have them to exchange (I send out big batches of stuff, so the per piece cost is really cheap....shipping back and forth will be the expensive part!)
#14
I've got many fuel lines already plated in gold zinc If you take a picture of the pieces you want to replace, I can see if I have them to exchange (I send out big batches of stuff, so the per piece cost is really cheap....shipping back and forth will be the expensive part!)