depami

Here’s a simple question.

Where does everyone put the floor jack to keep the pads clear for jack stands?

dprantl

I just drive up on ramps in the front, then jack up in the middle of the rear cross-member with a piece of wood.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Rob Edwards

www.liftbars.com

depami

Thanks Rob, I've seen those but can't really justify $250 X 2 (82 & 86).

hacker-pschorr

Front cross member & rear cross member. I use a 1.5' or so 2x4 to spread the load across.

Rear cross member is easy, front cross member make sure not to snag part of the oil pan.

To lift my lowered track car, I have to drive up on 2x10's which give me just enough clearance to squeeze the jack under.

Shark Attack

I agree, for as often as you have to lift the whole car they are kinda silly. Oh hell, its been a while.... I have put it on the bolts for the front tow hook hole. then after i get the front up I use the rear cross memeber for the rear. I lift the rear all at once.

Rob Edwards

My perspective is a bit skewed, one of mine has been on the liftbars for 8 months now....

Mrmerlin

for lifting S4 or later with the belly pans
front , lift at the front lower control arm securing bolts/tow hook, make sure the jack pad is centered jack till you can put a stand under the front pad then do the other side.
For the rear get a piece of 2 x4 about 8 inches long and put it on the jack pad, center this under the rear cross member.
If you cant get the jack under the front then drive up on a 2 x 4 this should give you clearance, or use the jack on the pad to lift the wheel off the ground and place the wood

Rob Edwards

One more thing- if your rear crossmember is at all greasy or slippery, clean it off and then wipe it down with brake cleaner so it's dry. I had a scary experience early in my ownership with the whole rear of the car sliding on the hockey puck I use as a jack pad. Badness.

lrpman

Bottle Jacks at the jack points. (6) ton was $24.95 each and you just add a jack stand if required, I do anyway.
I have the LOW jacks for race cars alum. and we used it under the rear cross member BUT since the Bottle jacks it is much easier.
I am going to modify the bottles by putting a 3" by 3" metal plate welded to each one.

linderpat

Absent a real two post or 4 post lift, I would not live without the liftbars. I've had both sets too. My cars are always up during the winter for various projects large and small. It takes far less time to lift it with the bars than without, and it is very sturdy up on the bars. Also, the whole lifting process is far safer with the bars than without, imho (altho make sure you get the right bars for your year - see my old thread on what happens if you don't - had a near disaster!).

The trouble with ramps is that you can't use them if you want to pull the wheels (well, you can, but not if you want all 4 wheels off, to bleed brakes, etc). The liftbars solve that problem too.

linderpat

Also, always remember to pull the cross brace off BEFORE lifting, and don't put it back on until the car is back on the ground. This direction comes right out of the WSM, but still many folks don't believe it.

mark kibort

why is that?? i thought if you dont have it, you risk the chance of cracking the windshield. I dont have one on right now and was worried about it.

I dont know anyone that has ever removed the crossbar before lifting on side.

personally, with the jacks of today, you can lift up one corner and get 2 wheels off the ground. put a stand under that, and go to the other side and do the same. now, all 4 wheels are up in the air and pretty high as well. how hard is that and what time would the bars save? If you dont know where to put stand after lifting one corner, that is pretty easy. at the end of the main frame rails, is a seem where the jack stand can go. you need to just orient the jack in a place where it leaves just enough room to put the stand in that position. The only thing this technique doesnt do, is have the car up in the air perfectly parallel, instead,the front will be higher than the rear. if that is a concern, you can just jack up the rear by the rear cross member and adjust the stands.

linderpat

To clarify - this only applies if you are lifting the whole car with the wheels off the ground, and if you are doing work on the engine that requires removal of the brace. You don't have to remove the brace to lift the car, but you also don't want to remove the brace once the car is lifted.

shmark

I use the front lower control arm points and the rear cross member, easy to do. And I haven't ever removed the cross brace before jacking. My garage is so narrow that liftbars are impossible, no way to get there from the side.