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Lifting a 928

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Old 01-28-2010, 04:34 PM
  #16  
Landseer
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Wow, we all do it differently.

My preference would be lift bars.

I do similar to what Mark suggested.

RR gets me a jackstand under the RF jack point
Then, LR gets me a jackstand under the LF jack point
Then, lift under the rear X-member to get the RR and LR jackstands in place.
I use 6 ton jackstands all the way around with lockbars. The above method gets me 3 out of 8 notches.

To go higher on the front, I go to the front tow hook mounts and lift one side, then the other.
To match with the rear, go back to the rear X-member and lift, then reset the back stands.

Coming down, I do it in stages.
Basically the reverse of the above.

What you DON'T want to do is lift on the subframe.

I wish I had all the Porken inventions, especially liftbars (and his specially marinated porkchips -- they are professionally smoked).
Old 01-28-2010, 04:43 PM
  #17  
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This is never comfortable to see from beneath.

I always (now) check all four corners after every move.
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:19 PM
  #18  
StratfordShark
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Originally Posted by linderpat
Also, always remember to pull the cross brace off BEFORE lifting, and don't put it back on until the car is back on the ground. This direction comes right out of the WSM, but still many folks don't believe it.
Can anyone confirm or deny? I always thought that you shouldn't lift with brace off, in case windshield cracks?

The wsm has an opening section on lifting with hoist and lifting with trolley jack at start of Vol 1, but I can't find the reference to cross brace.

So for cross-brace off work, is it remove before or after lift?
Old 01-28-2010, 05:49 PM
  #19  
linderpat
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Here you go: WSM 10-2 ..... " car must stand on its wheels when cross brace is removed or installed".

So for brace off engine bay work, remove brace before lifting, and reinstall after the wheels are back on the ground. I've had 3 of these cars and lifted them many many times, and never had a cracked windshield following the WSM process, or any other problem.
Old 01-28-2010, 05:52 PM
  #20  
depami
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Originally Posted by Landseer

What you DON'T want to do is lift on the subframe.
What happens if you do?
Old 01-28-2010, 06:09 PM
  #21  
jon928se
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Originally Posted by depami
What happens if you do?
you get nice dents in the frame rails - not good
Old 01-28-2010, 06:09 PM
  #22  
mark kibort
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things can break.

you dont want to lift by the frame either, as things bend!

the pads or the area at the end of the frame rails (strongest part of the car) or the steering rack/crossmember, or rear cross member.

Originally Posted by depami
What happens if you do?
Old 01-28-2010, 06:13 PM
  #23  
mark kibort
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ah ha. all interpretation!

this doesnt mean you need to take the crossbar off, but if you want to take it off, (or put it on) make sure all 4 wheels are flat on the ground

more than likely, you want the cross brace on before liftiing, or you can twist the frame a little , which might crack the windshield.

mk

Originally Posted by linderpat
Here you go: WSM 10-2 ..... " car must stand on its wheels when cross brace is removed or installed".

So for brace off engine bay work, remove brace before lifting, and reinstall after the wheels are back on the ground. I've had 3 of these cars and lifted them many many times, and never had a cracked windshield following the WSM process, or any other problem.
Old 01-28-2010, 06:15 PM
  #24  
depami
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Originally Posted by jon928se
you get nice dents in the frame rails - not good
Mine has some dents. Is that a big problem?
Old 01-28-2010, 06:19 PM
  #25  
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Ignore it and drive-on! Just lift if by jackpoints in the future.
One of mine is that way. Its aligned and I drive it. End of story.
Old 01-28-2010, 06:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by linderpat
Here you go: WSM 10-2 ..... " car must stand on its wheels when cross brace is removed or installed".

So for brace off engine bay work, remove brace before lifting, and reinstall after the wheels are back on the ground. I've had 3 of these cars and lifted them many many times, and never had a cracked windshield following the WSM process, or any other problem.
Thanks - saved me from potential embarrassment on upcoming project!
Old 01-28-2010, 07:03 PM
  #27  
rixter
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Originally Posted by depami
Here’s a simple question.

Where does everyone put the floor jack to keep the pads clear for jack stands?
Pic 1 shows floor jack location
Pic 2 shows jack stand setup

Pretty straight forward
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:29 PM
  #28  
mark kibort
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Originally Posted by rixter
Pic 1 shows floor jack location
Pic 2 shows jack stand setup

Pretty straight forward
Old 01-28-2010, 07:41 PM
  #29  
davek9
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
ah ha. all interpretation!

this doesnt mean you need to take the crossbar off, but if you want to take it off, (or put it on) make sure all 4 wheels are flat on the ground

more than likely, you want the cross brace on before liftiing, or you can twist the frame a little , which might crack the windshield.

mk
Plus 1 on that Mark, that is the rule I follow

DaveK9
Old 01-28-2010, 10:23 PM
  #30  
Jerry Feather
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Originally Posted by depami
Here’s a simple question.

Where does everyone put the floor jack to keep the pads clear for jack stands?
It's a simple question alright, but it is loaded!!

I jack my 928 up with a floor jack and homemade bar in both of the jacking points on each side. Then I put the safety stands under various suspension hard points--front and rear each side. By jacking each side part way at a time I can get the car as high as the safety stands will allow in about two lifts per side; and sometimes two lifts on one side and one on the other if I don't need the full available height.

It seemed intuitive to me to lift where the manual says to LIFT HERE.


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