wheel locks
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Malcom,
Try this thread, post #4
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...cks-stuck.html
There's lots of confusion on this topic because of the different kinds of locks. The original 928 locks circa-'88 are a cylindrical shell that locks over a special lugnut, and takes a small padlock-style key to remove.
The lug-removal tools won't work on this type lock but I think Jim B's technique above will work.
Cheers,
Try this thread, post #4
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...cks-stuck.html
There's lots of confusion on this topic because of the different kinds of locks. The original 928 locks circa-'88 are a cylindrical shell that locks over a special lugnut, and takes a small padlock-style key to remove.
The lug-removal tools won't work on this type lock but I think Jim B's technique above will work.
Cheers,
#18
Rennlist Member
below are a series of photos depicting the workings of the wheel lock, and instructions on how to get them off.
The assembly consists of (from left to right): Retaining Ring, Lock Core, Lug Cover and Lug Nut.
the two critical parts are the Lug Nut and the Lock Core.
the inside of the Lug Nut has grooves the tumblers fit into and hold the lock assembly over the Lug Nut.
The Lock Core houses the tumblers which extend into the grooves in the Lug Nut and lock the assembly together.
The core can spin freely inside the assembly whether there is a key inserted in it or not so no need to concern yourself with the rotation of the lock core. The trick to removing the lock is to get the tumblers to align with the OD of the lock core cylinder, at which time the lock slides out of the lug. in reality this is quite easy to accomplish. You should be able to pick each wheel lock in the matter of seconds, if you have a pick or make a pick similar to the below example.
To remove the lock insert the pick with the peak facing the side of the key hole to the outside of the lock.
now while pulling lightly on the lug cover start with the pick far back in the lock and rake it forward with the peak pressing each tumbler as it passes. as the tumbler moves there will be a slight sheering force on the tumblers that are not aligned correctly. now when the tumbler moves to the correct position the cylinder will progress slightly and the tumbler will hang on the top of the lip inside the lug. once all the tumblers align from subsequent rakings the lock core will slide out. as the tumbler moves forward and the tumblers align with the next set of grooves the tumblers will agian lock progress, but with 1 less engaged. there are 4 tumblers per lock so it will take 4 steps to remove each cylinder, but with each step getting easier.
the first cylinder may take a bit of time but once you learn how muck pull to apply the lock and improve your raking technique it should only take a few seconds to remove each one. I did one of mine as an experiment and it came off in about 3 seconds. I would say it would be much faster than trying to break the innards up with a punch and hammer.
The assembly consists of (from left to right): Retaining Ring, Lock Core, Lug Cover and Lug Nut.
the two critical parts are the Lug Nut and the Lock Core.
the inside of the Lug Nut has grooves the tumblers fit into and hold the lock assembly over the Lug Nut.
The Lock Core houses the tumblers which extend into the grooves in the Lug Nut and lock the assembly together.
The core can spin freely inside the assembly whether there is a key inserted in it or not so no need to concern yourself with the rotation of the lock core. The trick to removing the lock is to get the tumblers to align with the OD of the lock core cylinder, at which time the lock slides out of the lug. in reality this is quite easy to accomplish. You should be able to pick each wheel lock in the matter of seconds, if you have a pick or make a pick similar to the below example.
To remove the lock insert the pick with the peak facing the side of the key hole to the outside of the lock.
now while pulling lightly on the lug cover start with the pick far back in the lock and rake it forward with the peak pressing each tumbler as it passes. as the tumbler moves there will be a slight sheering force on the tumblers that are not aligned correctly. now when the tumbler moves to the correct position the cylinder will progress slightly and the tumbler will hang on the top of the lip inside the lug. once all the tumblers align from subsequent rakings the lock core will slide out. as the tumbler moves forward and the tumblers align with the next set of grooves the tumblers will agian lock progress, but with 1 less engaged. there are 4 tumblers per lock so it will take 4 steps to remove each cylinder, but with each step getting easier.
the first cylinder may take a bit of time but once you learn how muck pull to apply the lock and improve your raking technique it should only take a few seconds to remove each one. I did one of mine as an experiment and it came off in about 3 seconds. I would say it would be much faster than trying to break the innards up with a punch and hammer.
#20
Hi there. Bringing up an old thread. On every wheel is a longer nut that is open on the end like the example pictured below. No key holes. Are these security lug nuts that need a special tool? I’m getting new tires and want to make sure they can get the wheel off when I drop off the car. Thanks.
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
#21
Rennlist Member
Hi there. Bringing up an old thread. On every wheel is a longer nut that is open on the end like the example pictured below. No key holes. Are these security lug nuts that need a special tool? I’m getting new tires and want to make sure they can get the wheel off when I drop off the car. Thanks.
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
The following users liked this post:
LMW928 (10-03-2023)
#22
analyst
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hi there. Bringing up an old thread. On every wheel is a longer nut that is open on the end like the example pictured below. No key holes. Are these security lug nuts that need a special tool? I’m getting new tires and want to make sure they can get the wheel off when I drop off the car. Thanks.
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
Example similar to mine I found on the internet without a description, other than 928 lug nuts.
Mine
This eBay listing has the missing lock parts that require those hollow lug nuts.
#23
Team Owner
I would suggest that you throw those locks away and buy the new version that Porsche makes the new version is lower profile and a lot harder to remove steal
but if you think about it the only one that lock will deter is the mechanic that’s serviced the vehicle or the owner that’s trying to change a tire your 928 wheel won’t really fit many other machines due to the offsets so they are not a high theft item I don’t ever recall seeing a 928 that had its wheels stolen except in the junk yard
but if you think about it the only one that lock will deter is the mechanic that’s serviced the vehicle or the owner that’s trying to change a tire your 928 wheel won’t really fit many other machines due to the offsets so they are not a high theft item I don’t ever recall seeing a 928 that had its wheels stolen except in the junk yard
The following users liked this post:
linderpat (10-04-2023)
#24
analyst
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There are already people selling the other half, so offering this half for sale is great for those seeking this discontinued lock set.
#25
Team Owner
Wingless those original wheel locks are like a KnN filter,
you would only give/sell them to people you don't like.
Unless you think you know better... Humm.
They are very easy to disable,
use a 1/4 inch drill and drill right through the center of the lock,
the bronze metal quickly disintegrates. then pry off the collar.
Once the lock cylinders corrode they are almost frozen into place,
and nearly impossible to remove.
The key wont fit or it gets stuck in the lock, then the collar spins around
even after application of PB Blaster thats now running down the wheel.
Like I said these are the worst things you can install on your car.
I guess you cant really appreciate my sentiments until you have had to remove a few sets,
with the car on the lift and the wheels stuck,
and the clock ticking,
my profit margin dwindles to frozen wheel locks.
This set is way better
you would only give/sell them to people you don't like.
Unless you think you know better... Humm.
They are very easy to disable,
use a 1/4 inch drill and drill right through the center of the lock,
the bronze metal quickly disintegrates. then pry off the collar.
Once the lock cylinders corrode they are almost frozen into place,
and nearly impossible to remove.
The key wont fit or it gets stuck in the lock, then the collar spins around
even after application of PB Blaster thats now running down the wheel.
Like I said these are the worst things you can install on your car.
I guess you cant really appreciate my sentiments until you have had to remove a few sets,
with the car on the lift and the wheels stuck,
and the clock ticking,
my profit margin dwindles to frozen wheel locks.
This set is way better
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 10-04-2023 at 11:14 AM.
#26
Rennlist Member
Wingless those original wheel locks are like a KnN filter,
you would only give/sell them to people you don't like.
Unless you think you know better... Humm.
They are very easy to disable,
use a 1/4 inch drill and drill right through the center of the lock,
the bronze metal quickly disintegrates. then pry off the collar.
Once the lock cylinders corrode they are almost frozen into place,
and nearly impossible to remove.
The key wont fit or it gets stuck in the lock, then the collar spins around
even after application of PB Blaster thats now running down the wheel.
Like I said these are the worst things you can install on your car.
I guess you cant really appreciate my sentiments until you have had to remove a few sets,
with the car on the lift and the wheels stuck,
and the clock ticking,
my profit margin dwindles to frozen wheel locks.
This set is way better
you would only give/sell them to people you don't like.
Unless you think you know better... Humm.
They are very easy to disable,
use a 1/4 inch drill and drill right through the center of the lock,
the bronze metal quickly disintegrates. then pry off the collar.
Once the lock cylinders corrode they are almost frozen into place,
and nearly impossible to remove.
The key wont fit or it gets stuck in the lock, then the collar spins around
even after application of PB Blaster thats now running down the wheel.
Like I said these are the worst things you can install on your car.
I guess you cant really appreciate my sentiments until you have had to remove a few sets,
with the car on the lift and the wheels stuck,
and the clock ticking,
my profit margin dwindles to frozen wheel locks.
This set is way better
Ironically I did end up selling my original locking lugs and covers.covery on the 911 side wanted a set to complete his car to the original spec for concourse purposes, and i had my originals in a box from right after i purchased my first 928.
#27
analyst
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Welcome to the forum.
This eBay listing has the missing lock parts that require those hollow lug nuts.
This eBay listing has the missing lock parts that require those hollow lug nuts.
That set is great. Ideal choice for secure / problem-free operation.
This topic shows my NOS Porsche 928-361-047-00 wheel lock set.