Carpet Set
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lansing Michigan
Carpet Set
What color is the carpet in my interior? I have a Cassirot Metallic 928 that has burgundy and what appears to be a dirty white carpet set? Did they make white or is this linen? I have been looking at Rob's kits anyone have experience? Looks like everything is precut already and made to fit?
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From: Temecula, CA
Definitely Linen
If I'm not mistaken, Rob sells the Silverknit which is precut and includes the necessary padding. I know a few on this forum have replaced the carpeting with excellent results.
If I'm not mistaken, Rob sells the Silverknit which is precut and includes the necessary padding. I know a few on this forum have replaced the carpeting with excellent results.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Somewhere, NC
Another nod for the consensus... absolutely Linen.
My car was CassisRot from the factory as well and had the same color combo for the interior. The only difference was it was the special order "Match to Sample" all leather interior with Burgundy piping on the Linen seats and Linen contrast stitching on the Burgundy leather.
Too bad the various PO's in California and Texas let the sun bake it to the consistency of cardboard... warped cardboard!
My car was CassisRot from the factory as well and had the same color combo for the interior. The only difference was it was the special order "Match to Sample" all leather interior with Burgundy piping on the Linen seats and Linen contrast stitching on the Burgundy leather.
Too bad the various PO's in California and Texas let the sun bake it to the consistency of cardboard... warped cardboard!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Aiken S.C.
Per our samples, LINEN wins.
Can they be CLEANED or are they to far gone? In our 1984 I am looking for the OLD Woolite Carpet Cleaner we use on the Rolls Wilton Wool Carpets. It cleans but does not destroy the nap or texture.
Can they be CLEANED or are they to far gone? In our 1984 I am looking for the OLD Woolite Carpet Cleaner we use on the Rolls Wilton Wool Carpets. It cleans but does not destroy the nap or texture.
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
FWIW, the best method I've found for cleaning the carpet pieces is to carefully remove them, and run them through the gentle cycle in the washing machine. For the spins, I carefully place the pieces flat on the walls of the drum, with the soft side out, so that all of the detergent is pulled out. Sometimes a second rinse is needed if the carpet has a longer history of being cleaned in place. The old accumulated detergent attracts dirt, and it tends to cause the carpet nap to bunch and look uneven. There's no good way that I know of to get that stuff out without removing them. Anyway, after they've been through the spin cycle the carpets are really pretty dry. I spread them, stretched straight, on a towel and let them finish air drying.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Davidsonville, MD
I used tide on some of the carpets in mine without a problem.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 398
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From: Aiken S.C.
FWIW, the best method I've found for cleaning the carpet pieces is to carefully remove them, and run them through the gentle cycle in the washing machine. For the spins, I carefully place the pieces flat on the walls of the drum, with the soft side out, so that all of the detergent is pulled out. Sometimes a second rinse is needed if the carpet has a longer history of being cleaned in place. The old accumulated detergent attracts dirt, and it tends to cause the carpet nap to bunch and look uneven. There's no good way that I know of to get that stuff out without removing them. Anyway, after they've been through the spin cycle the carpets are really pretty dry. I spread them, stretched straight, on a towel and let them finish air drying.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Dr. Bob, when are you coming to Austin to perform that surgery on my '81 carpets?! They are old and terrible and I have thought often of replacing them but it is not for them being worn out...just dirty, though the carpets in the back area (even the backs of the rear seats) is so sun faded it does not look tan anymore...you know how those fade to a sort of pink color!
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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From: Chandler, AZ, USA, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
dr bob - Any thoughts on using Scotch Guard on the carpet pieces after they are cleaned? Especially on light colored carpet.
BTW - Forgot to congratulate you on another excellent Rose Parade. Have never seen a bad one.
BTW - Forgot to congratulate you on another excellent Rose Parade. Have never seen a bad one.
FWIW, the best method I've found for cleaning the carpet pieces is to carefully remove them, and run them through the gentle cycle in the washing machine. For the spins, I carefully place the pieces flat on the walls of the drum, with the soft side out, so that all of the detergent is pulled out. Sometimes a second rinse is needed if the carpet has a longer history of being cleaned in place. The old accumulated detergent attracts dirt, and it tends to cause the carpet nap to bunch and look uneven. There's no good way that I know of to get that stuff out without removing them. Anyway, after they've been through the spin cycle the carpets are really pretty dry. I spread them, stretched straight, on a towel and let them finish air drying.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
Once they are clean and dry, they get brushed with a fine-bristle carpet brush to get the nap back to new looking.
Then they get reinstalled where they were, being careful not to stretch them during installation. If you use contact adhesive, follow he directions for application and let the film set up a bit. Then you can use a couple pieces of wax paper from the kitchen as a slip sheet, and engage the carpet starting at the middle. Pull the pieces of wax paper from the center as you carefully press the carpet into place --without stretching it--. Tuck the edges or roll them where they need to be rolled, then let them dry completely before doing anything else to the pieces. I use paint stir sticks and spring clamps where needed to keep the rolled edges tight while the glue dries overnight. This works especially well on the lower pieces of the door panel that seem to get a wipe of dirt every time you get in and out, and on the console side panels that get feet touching them. That rolled piece on the side just inner from the doorsill is another good candidate.
George, I'm sorry that this probably isn't the best solution for the wool in the Rolls. If you can keep the wool stuff stretched as it dries slowly though, it will work. It's generally the heat of forced drying that makes wool carpets get smaller.
I do still have a few cans of that Woolite foam carpet cleaner that you mention. It's only ten or fifteen years old. My favorite for when I have to clean the carpet in place. I still follow it with a spray bottle of distilled water and the wet vac to get as much out as possible.
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From: Temecula, CA
IMHO if you want perfect Silvernit you need to replace it, if you don't mind having it matted down a bit you should be able to clean it.
I've used woolite successfully to remove lighter dirt/stains. I have also used Griots Carpet Cleaner which seems to work even better.
Biggest problem with using any cleaner is the residue it leaves behind. This residue acts like grease and attracts and holds dirt. Rinse the area you've cleaned very well to prevent this. Bobs suggestion would work well if you're capable of removing the carpets. The new carpets aren't too pricey considering the impact they have on the interior when replaced.
I've used woolite successfully to remove lighter dirt/stains. I have also used Griots Carpet Cleaner which seems to work even better.
Biggest problem with using any cleaner is the residue it leaves behind. This residue acts like grease and attracts and holds dirt. Rinse the area you've cleaned very well to prevent this. Bobs suggestion would work well if you're capable of removing the carpets. The new carpets aren't too pricey considering the impact they have on the interior when replaced.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Somewhere, NC
Unfortunately, the car was already painted white when I found it -and I liked it as white, so I redid the paint as Pearl White.
The interior being in such bad shape, is being swapped out with a 2-tone Carrara Gray (medium/dark gray with purplish tones)/Raspberry (kind of a pinkish cream color) that I got out of a '91. The last few hurdles to completion are the dash, pod, console & headliner.
I still have the Burgundy/Linen pieces, but they are so far gone -it doesn't look pretty!
I have attached a pic of an interior identical to what mine was from Kat's '87 that is perfect (from SITM '06 -Kat was 16 at the time)... you can see the contrast piping on the seats; contrast door inserts; linen headliner (catching the red color of the 928 next to it). The pic is too far away to see the linen stitching on the burgundy leather -but it's there.
The interior being in such bad shape, is being swapped out with a 2-tone Carrara Gray (medium/dark gray with purplish tones)/Raspberry (kind of a pinkish cream color) that I got out of a '91. The last few hurdles to completion are the dash, pod, console & headliner.
I still have the Burgundy/Linen pieces, but they are so far gone -it doesn't look pretty!
I have attached a pic of an interior identical to what mine was from Kat's '87 that is perfect (from SITM '06 -Kat was 16 at the time)... you can see the contrast piping on the seats; contrast door inserts; linen headliner (catching the red color of the 928 next to it). The pic is too far away to see the linen stitching on the burgundy leather -but it's there.
Last edited by White Lightnin'; Jan 24, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
