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How to: Oil Pump removal, Rehab & Install with pics

 
Old 10-09-2013, 05:30 PM
  #31  
johnu
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does that spring just freely float between the seal and the lip on the inside of the pump? What exactly does it do?
Does it need to be perfectly round? mine is a little damaged

John
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:20 PM
  #32  
Avar928
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The spring should be round and is embedded inside the seal itself. I believe it compresses the opening to keep oil from leaking out when the pump gets hot.

If it's broken, remove the seal and replace with a new one (the spring is inside the seal).
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:39 PM
  #33  
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New seal did not come with a new spring. I re-used the old one. Does this look correct?
Sorry about the poor pic quality.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:36 PM
  #34  
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The spring should be hidden under a lip along the perimeter of the inner ring of that seal. It's not visible. Check to see.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:44 PM
  #35  
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I was just about to answer my own question....thanks Avar928...I see the spring hidden in the seal
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:38 PM
  #36  
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No prob.
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:04 AM
  #37  
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Ahh that spring looks damaged,

The bigger question how do you get a new seal and not have a spring on it?

If this is true then return the seal to the vendor and get a new seal, don't use the old spring on a new seal
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:21 PM
  #38  
Bill Ball
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That sure doesn't look like a coil spring but more like a round steel clip unless that is just a result of fuzzy camera focus. The seal should come with a coil spring.
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:39 PM
  #39  
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I think he found it.
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:08 PM
  #40  
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Several years ago there was a NOS pump on ebay and I bought it. I should measure its clearances against the pumps in/on the other engines I have.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:45 AM
  #41  
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Whats the method you use to remove the gear from the shaft? basic puller? how to old the shaft when removing the bolt?
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:47 AM
  #42  
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It SHOULD come off once you remove the nut. Tap on the woodruff key if it's angled. If you have some corrosion on the shaft, it'll be a PITA to come off. Apply some assembly lube and or anti-seize on the shaft when you re-install.

If it won't slide off with force use a gear puller. Two or three jaw. I used a two-jaw puller. I actually used this http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ler-66868.html but it was MODIFIED though. I used two longer bolts to widen the range to clamp on the sides. They sell ones that are bigger at Home Depot. I prefer this style of gear pulled since the edges are thin and can slip into the tight spaces for some of these gears where larger once won't even grab.

If the gear is original, it's pretty brittle since it's aluminum and if you use too much force it MAY break. I was going to replace my gear anyways so I used it as a grab for pulling off the oil pump the gear broke in half. New gear is steel.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:46 AM
  #43  
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To take the nut off, I put a wrench through the hole of the gear and jammed it against the ribs on the oil pump housing. Held the wrench with one hand and used a socket for the nut with the other hand. It came off pretty easily. Used the same technique to torque the nut on assembly.
Hope that helps.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:46 AM
  #44  
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Default oil pump

87s4 aut.

my only comments on oil pump on the s4, is that kudos to those who remove the pump without splitting the case. the tolerances were so tight on mine. i split my case and did a lot of things, but i could tell that the oil pump tolerances were really tight, i also noticed for me that things like main seal replacement would be hard as pieces of the seals would be stuck to case like cement, and hard to see causing future leaks.

splitting the case enabled me to see everything.

i guess the key to this reassembly is the blue loctite as suggested by forum members. that bolt has a tendency to back out.

i also noticed that that oil oring, the large one, needed to be placed perfectly on groove etc during install. it wasnt a tight rubber band type fit.

i used stp as suggested, and my priming was actually accidental.....my fi harness shorted out, so i could crank and crank.....

by then the oil was pumped through the rebuilt engine....
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:26 PM
  #45  
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I had dried oil on the surface that filled in enough gap to make it pretty hard to get out. I put the steel gear on there, put the nut on but not tight ( I left enough space to get a wrench behind it), then wrapped a towel around a 27mm wrench (didn't have a pry bar at the time), positioned it behind the gear and against the block and leveraged it out. Worked around the left and right side until I got it out.

You have to break the "seal" caused by the corrosion.

Took me three days to get my crankshaft gear off because of rust on the shaft.
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