who is the better way for....
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello!! i have a questions for who is the better way for make a stroke engine, i like 6 litre engine and i like to know who is the better way for make it; can i use stock pistons? what pistons can i use for 95.25 mm crankshaft?if i dismount the engine.. is necessary give treatment alusil to the engine??thanks for the help
#2
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
To do a stroker you need the stroker crankshaft, custom length connecting rods, and custom pistons or 968 104 mm Mahle pistons. You need to bore the cylinders bigger and clearance the lower block so the pistons do not hit , after boring you either hone the alusil for the Mahle pistons or have the block Nikasiled for aftermarket pistons...it is a complete rebuild. With a lot more things to do if you also want more horsepower and not just torque at low engine speeds....a lot more !
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yesh, i buy a performance camshafts, a 95.25 stroker crankshaft and the question is about what rod 5.85" chevy or others and what pistons what i need for a 6.0 litre engine, i dont know if i can use stock pistons(100.00mm) because their skir are very long.. or no... i dont know what pistons i have to buy, 968 are 104 mm and i dont like to bore my engine, i like 100.mm pistons, but if is imposible or very difficult i will see the option of 104 mm.
i dont know if you understand me.
for example, if y buy a 95,25 crankshaft, oliver 5.85 rods can i use the stock piston? in negative case, what pistons i need?
thanks
i dont know if you understand me.
for example, if y buy a 95,25 crankshaft, oliver 5.85 rods can i use the stock piston? in negative case, what pistons i need?
thanks
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You are correct the standard 100mm piston is much too long , GTS pistons were made much shorter , and the 104 mm 968 are even shorter than that . You might try contacting Greg Brown by e-mail after the holiday and see if he will give you some guidance since he has built many stroker 928 engines..... the rods for example while chevy need to be modified to work best in a stroker.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
stroker motors are for crazy people... err.... wait... um, never mind ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But really - for cheap power, forced induction is the obvious thrust/dollar winner, and we have several very nice vendors offering high quality systems in that department. Larger longer cylinder displacements are for those trapped in California or other extra strict smog inspection areas, and with more money than sanity.
then again, 400-odd foot pounds just above idle is kinda charming.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But really - for cheap power, forced induction is the obvious thrust/dollar winner, and we have several very nice vendors offering high quality systems in that department. Larger longer cylinder displacements are for those trapped in California or other extra strict smog inspection areas, and with more money than sanity.
then again, 400-odd foot pounds just above idle is kinda charming.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
thanks for the help, other guys tell me that the 100mm is very limmit and they tell me that the best solution is mounting 104 pistons.i am waiting for rennlist this days some informations of stroker engines and really there is a very interesting things.i cant mounting force induction because my inlet manifolds arent stock.
The following users liked this post:
PK68 (10-25-2023)
Trending Topics
#9
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I decided to build a stroker using Greg Brown's expertise- my build is detailed Here. Just boring and nikasiling the block, and buying Greg's current proven crank, rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins, big intake valves and damper is almost $11K. That doesn't include any head work. If you're going to buy such a pile of parts, you'd either better be really experienced at engine work yourself or have access to someone who does. I have no illusions about being totally over my head on the nuances of building an engine properly and so I'm very lucky to have Greg nearby. There isn't a single piece of the engine that Greg doesn't do something to in order to maximize power, reliability, and smoothness. I spent 30 minutes yesterday sanding the head bolt washers one way on the head side to give them some bite, and another way on the bolt head side so they don't gall during the torquing sequence. The devil is in the details.