hacker-pschorr

I don't want you to either, that's a very nice S4 you have.

Are those hoses NLA like so many on the OB's?

blown 87

If you can not find one I may have one, a used one just for testing.
But we have not had any problems getting new ones.

SeanR

I've got a lot of used ones, but don't recommend using them. Rog has a dozen or so new ones in stock.

Mongo

New one ordered. I sure hope it gets here fast this week. I have major 928 withdrawls.

Cosmo Kramer

Andy, you can take the existing hose and cut it off the fittings and buy 5/16 EFI hose at your local parts store and some fuel injection clamps. I replaced all my fuel lines this way and it works really well. The new hose is really tight getting it over the barb but that is the hardest part. I did all the ones under my hood for under $30.

Mongo

My concern is using clamps. I had a REALLY bad experience on using clamps on the ATF fluid lines under the car and the clamps did not hold. I opted for pressure crimps. With fuel lines I really don't want to take any chances on one blowing because it is clamped on.

blown 87

The factory ones are just pushed on, no clamps.
Rogers kit will work and work very well.

Mrmerlin

to point out Rogers kit supplies the hose that failed in addition to a few feet of new FI hose and screw clamps and it is a new factory part not a screw clamped repair

hacker-pschorr

Maybe you have better supplies in your area but the fuel line sold at my local parts stores (O'Reilly, Autozone etc..) are not going on my car. My local import shop (owned by a Rennlister) stocks BMW fuel hose in bulk and other fuel line made by WURTH that is much better quality and around the same price.

Then something wasn't right, hose wrong size / kind, crappy clamps etc..

I'm using fuel hose Tim Murphy stocks for his kits and Norma Euro Band Clamps from Wurth. This combination on stock fittings is holding just fine with 120+ psi of fuel pressure on my supercharged 81.

Cosmo Kramer

The hose that is supplied here is probably the same, it is rated for constant 225 psi with a burst resistance of 900 psi, so it should be more then adequate. The stock hose I took off was like a hard plastic core with rubber surrounding it and the new ones is like an inner layer of rubber with tightly woven nylon and an outer sheath of rubber. I can tell you that on mine the connections are definitely not coming apart. I would like to see the BMW line to see the difference though.

blown 87

Wurth makes some good stuff.
I stock the Euro band hose clamps and the Zebra clamps, sucks that they changed the head sizes though.

I am sometimes amazed how much a 12"X12" box from them can cost sometimes.

Mongo

I may take up an offer tomorrow on doing a rebuild on this hose to get this car back on the road. I hope it holds.

dr bob

Andy-- Wait a day and get the right hose.

ROG100

Andy,
I could have shipped you one yesterday and would have been there tomorrow.
$38.89 plus shipping.
Roger

Mongo

Update. Fixed and back on the road, but I'm still having that problem where it doesn't want to idle once it gets up to operating temperature or the 1/2 mark on the gauge.

Mako and I were talking about maybe the low temperature thermostat maybe causing some issues as far as reading the temperature correctly seeing that the engine was hot and the coolant may have been a little too cool. The car wants to bog and stall after being driven for a while. Unless the temperature is below 1/2 it runs fine.

I started it up after letting it sit for an hour to an hour and a half and the idle was erratic, but once I blipped the throttle it instantly smoothed out. Sounds just like a temperature sensor issue, but that ohms out and tests fine.

Anyone heard of low-temp thermostats causing running issues on cars?



Overall the car runs just much better all around and isn't rich at idle anymore.