Factory pedal spacer(s)
#18
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I didn't use the QR very much, but it is handy when you need to work under or around the pod. I had (the Momo SW) for a short time in my '85, but took it out because it scraped the pod cover. (I need to find a thin spacer or something for it.)
Last edited by PorKen; 11-29-2009 at 03:14 PM.
#19
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In all seriousness, if I had an airbag car I would give up the airbag to bring the wheel closer. Talk about a night and day difference, I've talked to Todd about making a longer one with a possible quick release built in. I know this could be accomplished a lot easier with an aftermarket wheel, I like the sport three spoke.
#20
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PDFs. The radio delete plates at least have a diagram to show what they look like. The pedal spacers are only listed in the text, at the end of the pedal section, 702. You have to read all the versions of PET, early and late, too. Some things are only listed in the ROW or German versions, some only in the USA versions.
EG. here's a cover for delete of the oil level sensor when you didn't order the Central Warning System option (optional on early cars):
928 101 204 00 (gasket: 928 606 213 03)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/OilLevelSensorCover.jpg)
Except when they are 927, RHD, parts.
EG. here's a cover for delete of the oil level sensor when you didn't order the Central Warning System option (optional on early cars):
928 101 204 00 (gasket: 928 606 213 03)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/OilLevelSensorCover.jpg)
Except when they are 927, RHD, parts.
#21
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Indeed! I've always thought it was very weird that Porsche worked a stylized "928" into the pedal-pad design. I didn't notice it until recently, now it pops out every time I see it.
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Last edited by jcorenman; 11-29-2009 at 08:49 PM. Reason: can't spel too gud
#23
Three Wheelin'
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On my 944, the elevated hub was riveted onto a regular steering wheel. I just drilled out the rivets and replaced them with nuts/bolts. You may want to explore this further...
#24
Burning Brakes
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Evidently, not all clutch pedals have an existing 8mm threaded hole. I just scored a pair of these spacers for my newly acquired 89GT.
They arrived today.
I remove the rubber pad and low and behold...the 89GT clutch pedals are solid. No hole. Bummer.
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Lesson...check before you buy. Looks like I'll be including these in the freebie parts box I plan to bring to Sharktoberfest.
#25
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Funny. I was going to post about this. My new-to-me '86.5 does not have holes. Must have started in '86, as the blue carpet pics are from a '85.
All may not be lost, however. At least on mine, the clutch pedal retains the casting on the back of the pedal for the hole, and has a handy drill guide. The brake pedal has a small center mark, but there is no longer enough material on the back side for a hole.
If your pedal has a large center mark, and a squarish casting on the back where the arm meets the pedal (vs. a small mark, and a thin transition) then it can be drilled and tapped for a spacer.
All may not be lost, however. At least on mine, the clutch pedal retains the casting on the back of the pedal for the hole, and has a handy drill guide. The brake pedal has a small center mark, but there is no longer enough material on the back side for a hole.
If your pedal has a large center mark, and a squarish casting on the back where the arm meets the pedal (vs. a small mark, and a thin transition) then it can be drilled and tapped for a spacer.
![](http://members.rennlist.org/porken/PedalSpacerNotDrilled.jpg)
#27
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I would remove the pedal and drill it with a drill press, or at least clamp it in a vice and drill straight down. The pedals are pretty easy to remove, IIRC.
FYI: 8 x 1.25 tap drill size: 17/64" (6.8mm)
FYI: 8 x 1.25 tap drill size: 17/64" (6.8mm)
#28
Burning Brakes
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Pre-existing holes would've been too easy...I guess.
#29
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Suprised so many folks are looking for the pedal extensions. I'm of average frame and I need it to go the other way... i.e. pull the wheel out or move the pedals farther away. When the seat is really where I want it, my right knee hits the knee pad.
#30
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Drilling pedal for tapping.
While the pedal was out, I squished new wheel bearing grease into the roller bearings(!) and rotated them around to use different rollers. Huge difference in pedal feel and much improved clutch engagement. Previously, the takeup point felt 'notchy'.
While the pedal was out, I squished new wheel bearing grease into the roller bearings(!) and rotated them around to use different rollers. Huge difference in pedal feel and much improved clutch engagement. Previously, the takeup point felt 'notchy'.
![](http://members.rennlist.org/porken/PedalSpacerDrill.jpg)