Repainting My Turbo 16V
#76
just a note on the bumpers if there are any cracks in the paint then the complete surface should be removed down to original,
a walnut blaster is best for doing this then rebuild the coatings.
I have seen many times where the surfaces were just sanded and then filled then painted,
after a few heat cycles in sunlight the old cracks came out letting you know exactly where the old damage was.
So a word to the wise should be sufficient
a walnut blaster is best for doing this then rebuild the coatings.
I have seen many times where the surfaces were just sanded and then filled then painted,
after a few heat cycles in sunlight the old cracks came out letting you know exactly where the old damage was.
So a word to the wise should be sufficient
#77
just a note on the bumpers if there are any cracks in the paint then the complete surface should be removed down to original,
a walnut blaster is best for doing this then rebuild the coatings.
I have seen many times where the surfaces were just sanded and then filled then painted,
after a few heat cycles in sunlight the old cracks came out letting you know exactly where the old damage was.
So a word to the wise should be sufficient
a walnut blaster is best for doing this then rebuild the coatings.
I have seen many times where the surfaces were just sanded and then filled then painted,
after a few heat cycles in sunlight the old cracks came out letting you know exactly where the old damage was.
So a word to the wise should be sufficient
#78
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Note that if you take all of the paint off of the rubber bumpers then you have to start all over and use a special solvent to get the rubber cleaned the right way and apply a special solvent base adhesion coat and then followed buy primer with flex.. You just need to feather out the spider cracks and the re-primer. Striping it all the way down is not needed unless it has the spider cracks all over it.
#80
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
#81
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
#82
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From: Florida, USA
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
#83
Fabio looking good! Yes I agree how much the aero mirrors and wheels update the look along with fresh spoilers and fresh painted brakes. That is what I did 10 years ago now. Massive amount of work but worth it as you would well now know sir.
As to the bumpers
I have done these bars, taking them a stage further than most, by that I mean that I filled the bars to sort the lows that occur, these lows from sun damage and in the case of the early bars some come straight from the factory.
The filler I used on the bar was a special B/Bar filler, highly flexible from the bondo corporation. It sands well, use 36 grit and bolt the bar to a car and avoid your new paintwork. Yes the bars need special products on them for adhesion like the product that opens the pores and the plastic primer.
Mr Merlin is correct about the walnut stripper, we use pecan and walnut here to blast the bars. If you have cracks you need to remove all the paint, you may well find many layers of paint, don't use a caustic stripper. I would listen to the advice of smith 928 as he has obviously been there done that. Also I have never heard of the products you quoted either. I would stick to Glasurit or other German paint except substitute the colour from your remaining colour coats to ensure it matches the body's paint.
Very important, make sure you put the flex add in all the paint except the metallic or base coat. If you don't you won't be happy down the road.
Good luck
Greg
As to the bumpers
By Dean Fuller
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
5) Block sand with 600.
6) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
7) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
Don't mean to high jack your thread but your bumpers look great!
I have done these bars, taking them a stage further than most, by that I mean that I filled the bars to sort the lows that occur, these lows from sun damage and in the case of the early bars some come straight from the factory.
The filler I used on the bar was a special B/Bar filler, highly flexible from the bondo corporation. It sands well, use 36 grit and bolt the bar to a car and avoid your new paintwork. Yes the bars need special products on them for adhesion like the product that opens the pores and the plastic primer.
Mr Merlin is correct about the walnut stripper, we use pecan and walnut here to blast the bars. If you have cracks you need to remove all the paint, you may well find many layers of paint, don't use a caustic stripper. I would listen to the advice of smith 928 as he has obviously been there done that. Also I have never heard of the products you quoted either. I would stick to Glasurit or other German paint except substitute the colour from your remaining colour coats to ensure it matches the body's paint.
Very important, make sure you put the flex add in all the paint except the metallic or base coat. If you don't you won't be happy down the road.
Good luck
Greg
#85
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Thanks for the encouragement Dean. No worries regarding the bumper cover discussion. Thats why we're all here.
#86
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Still not finished but it's driveable. I moved it last night to Tampa 928's house. That way it's only half as far away and I can work on it every day. He has also offered to help me finish putting it together. I've gotta get it ready for the Kissimmee meet on Sat. BTW, some dude almost side swiped me last night. I wasn't even two miles away from the shop when it happened. Luckily I saw him and was able to make some evasive maneuvers to avoid the collission. I think I would have cried , right there in the street, if he had hit this car so soon after taking it.
#89
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I kind of just dropped this thread once I got my car back together. I'll post up some good pics once I get some taken. As of right now, this is the best one I've got of the completed car. In this pic, I still hadn't gotten the hood adjustment correct. It's all good now. I finally learned the secret to getting it to fit correctly. What a PITA.
And for those that care. Since March of last year we've been working on converting an 84 5 speed ( the one in the background of this picture ) to a widebody. I shaved it pretty good. The rub strips were deleted, the S-spoiler was deleted, the fender mounted antenna was deleted as well as the rear wiper. I welded up all the holes in the body panels. It should look pretty sweet with all this stuff deleted as well as the widebody kit and no wing. We'll see. Time will tell. Here's a pic of the widebody in process as well.
And for those that care. Since March of last year we've been working on converting an 84 5 speed ( the one in the background of this picture ) to a widebody. I shaved it pretty good. The rub strips were deleted, the S-spoiler was deleted, the fender mounted antenna was deleted as well as the rear wiper. I welded up all the holes in the body panels. It should look pretty sweet with all this stuff deleted as well as the widebody kit and no wing. We'll see. Time will tell. Here's a pic of the widebody in process as well.
#90
wow- very nice work, and great color. Really makes me motivated to paint my White '85. Since Mark is so experienced on 928's could I get his contact info- I could drive it down and fly home- thanks