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Dread Blue Hose job

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Old 11-01-2009, 08:08 PM
  #31  
SeanR
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That's the difference, this was on Rogers own car, not one he is selling.

On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
Old 11-01-2009, 08:49 PM
  #32  
Fabio421
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When I replaced Tarek's clutch master I almost gave in to the temptation to cut it after fighting with it for hours on end. He gave me the go ahead but I still couldn't bring myself to do it. I just kept at it and eventually I got it where it needed to go.... the next morning. If I had to do it again I still don't think I would cut it.
Old 11-01-2009, 08:53 PM
  #33  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by SeanR
That's the difference, this was on Rogers own car, not one he is selling.

On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
What is so hard about a fuel pump on a Tahoe?
Don't tell me you cut a hole in them also?????

Personally I think it is stupid for the factory to put plates in some vehicles for doing the pumps with the tank in.
The Saabs and BMW's X's come to mind.

Sorry Sean, I do not care who's car it is on or if they tell me to do it, I am not going to cut it up unless there is no other way, and I can not think of what that would be, short of a blower, tubs or a cage, you know race car stuff.
Old 11-01-2009, 08:55 PM
  #34  
SeanR
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Originally Posted by blown 87
What is so hard about a fuel pump on a Tahoe?
Don't tell me you cut a hole in them also?????
Oh I wanted to, after the brother in law told me he 'thought' the tank was close to empty. It was damn near full. It wouldn't be too hard to make a hole like the one in the 928's for the fuel level sender.
Old 11-01-2009, 09:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Just deal with the whole hydraulic assembly as a unit. It's not that hard, less than half an hour to remove and about 45 minutes to install(extra 15 min. for the bracket).
Dave, you thought this would work for later cars also, but the clutch-master can't get past the larger brake booster-- the boss for the infamous blue hose (IBH) hits the back of the booster before the pedal-end of the cylinder is thru the hole.

It is close, another few mm should do it. Will it work to simply loosen the four nuts securing the booster to gain some clearance, without disconnecting the hydraulics?

(And no, we are not talking the sawzall to this puppy- I am with Greg on that issue )

Thanks!
Old 11-01-2009, 09:23 PM
  #36  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by worf928
I have seen factory manuals (Chevy) where a repair procedure involved cutting something. But, not in the 928 WSM.

If I paid a shop or dealer to replace a part on one of my 928s and they cut a hole in the car you'd better believe I wouldn't just take it.

If a 928 was brought to me for an inspection I would, also, question where else corners were cut. Unless it was for a track car or for parting out, I wouldn't buy a 928 with holes cut in the "body in white."
I can only remember one, and that is in a van when you pull the engine, and you get a kit to make the upper radiator support as one again.

What are you referring to?
Old 11-01-2009, 09:37 PM
  #37  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Oh I wanted to, after the brother in law told me he 'thought' the tank was close to empty. It was damn near full. It wouldn't be too hard to make a hole like the one in the 928's for the fuel level sender.
9 out of ten times when a fuel pump goes bad, they always fill them up to at least half to make sure it is not out of gas.
Old 11-01-2009, 10:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
... would work for later cars also, but the clutch-master can't get past the larger brake booster-- the boss for the infamous blue hose (IBH) hits the back of the booster before the pedal-end of the cylinder is thru the hole.
Huh? I've not done a CMC on an earlier car, but have done half-a-dozen or so on 87+. No problem getting the CMC out with the booster in place. (Well, once you have everything disconnected that is.)

Is this something specific with removing the CMC with the rest of the hydraulics as a single unit? That I haven't done. Yet.
Old 11-01-2009, 10:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by blown 87
I can only remember one,...
What are you referring to?
C5 shop manuals call for cutting up various things if you ever have to get to the front evaporator. There were a couple other procedures in the same vicinity but I don't recall the specifics.
Old 11-01-2009, 10:12 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SeanR
That's the difference, this was on Rogers own car, not one he is selling.
Ahh.. Roger is a special case.

He probably stood there cackling and laughing while you cut holes in the car, and saying something about how if the car had a proper rogerbox, you wouldn't have to let out the foul humours.



Anyway - something added to the list of stuff to look for when I inspect my next 928. I'm with Greg, it'd put me off buying a car if I found that. I'd probably also go look under the carpets to see if there were holes for the shifter ball cup, rear coupler, brake bias valve and more.

I might also check to see if there was a previous owner with the name Kibort
Old 11-02-2009, 12:54 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by worf928
Huh? I've not done a CMC on an earlier car, but have done half-a-dozen or so on 87+. No problem getting the CMC out with the booster in place. (Well, once you have everything disconnected that is.)

Is this something specific with removing the CMC with the rest of the hydraulics as a single unit? That I haven't done. Yet.
Yep, I was trying Dave (Sharkskin)'s "string of entrails" approach. Not a good idea, I think, for later cars with the larger boosters.

Thanks!
Old 11-02-2009, 12:59 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
Yep, I was trying Dave (Sharkskin)'s "string of entrails" approach.
String of entrails. Nice. I like that.

What exactly limits movement of the CMC? Is it the still-attached hard line that limits how much you can wiggle the CMC?

IIRC didn't Stan (mmerlin) use the SOE approach with success?
Old 11-02-2009, 01:15 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by worf928
What exactly limits movement of the CMC? Is it the still-attached hard line that limits how much you can wiggle the CMC?
...
Yes, the hard-line runs into the sheet metal which limits the wiggle-range. The boss on the CMC where the blue hose fits then runs into the back of the booster. Without the hard line I think it could be wiggled past the booster, it only needs a couple more mm before the CMC is thru the hole and has lots of room.

I'll know more in the AM

Thanks!!
Old 11-02-2009, 02:14 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
Dave, you thought this would work for later cars also, but the clutch-master can't get past the larger brake booster-- the boss for the infamous blue hose (IBH) hits the back of the booster before the pedal-end of the cylinder is thru the hole.

It is close, another few mm should do it. Will it work to simply loosen the four nuts securing the booster to gain some clearance, without disconnecting the hydraulics?

(And no, we are not talking the sawzall to this puppy- I am with Greg on that issue )

Thanks!
Well... It was Stan who put me on to the idea, I think he has an 88. I'm pretty sure he did it on at least one later car. Not sure if the GT has a bigger booster but that would make sense... Should be no issue with loosening the booster a bit from the firewall.

I don't really want to be a part of the debate of why or why not cut... suffice to say that I agree with you, Greg, Dave, etc.
Old 11-02-2009, 08:58 AM
  #45  
Larry Velk
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The thing that interfered on my '86.0 was the sound / heat insulation, and yes, it was that stiff. A '68 Camaro with AC requires the front bumper be pulled for a heater motor replace. I know the shop I was in cut the fender liner for this repair. That fix could be seen, looked bad, but was completely non-structual. I'm a bit of a body guy and my little master cyl. repair is quite invisible from the fender side - with liner out. Structual adhesive and the piece is contoured. Of couse this limits its use as a later repair.


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