Dread Blue Hose job
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That's the difference, this was on Rogers own car, not one he is selling.
On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
Man of many SIGs
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When I replaced Tarek's clutch master I almost gave in to the temptation to cut it after fighting with it for hours on end. He gave me the go ahead but I still couldn't bring myself to do it. I just kept at it and eventually I got it where it needed to go.... the next morning. 
If I had to do it again I still don't think I would cut it.
If I had to do it again I still don't think I would cut it.
Rest in Peace
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
That's the difference, this was on Rogers own car, not one he is selling.
On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
On a customers car I would not do it unless I was instructed by the customer to do so. For my own cars, I'd have no issues doing this at all. Much like on the Cheby Tahoe's, what freaking idiot didn't design a port for replacing a fuel pump.
Don't tell me you cut a hole in them also?????
Personally I think it is stupid for the factory to put plates in some vehicles for doing the pumps with the tank in.
The Saabs and BMW's X's come to mind.
Sorry Sean, I do not care who's car it is on or if they tell me to do it, I am not going to cut it up unless there is no other way, and I can not think of what that would be, short of a blower, tubs or a cage, you know race car stuff.
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Oh I wanted to, after the brother in law told me he 'thought' the tank was close to empty. It was damn near full. It wouldn't be too hard to make a hole like the one in the 928's for the fuel level sender.
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From: Friday Harbor, WA
Just deal with the whole hydraulic assembly as a unit. It's not that hard, less than half an hour to remove and about 45 minutes to install(extra 15 min. for the 
bracket).
bracket).It is close, another few mm should do it. Will it work to simply loosen the four nuts securing the booster to gain some clearance, without disconnecting the hydraulics?
(And no, we are not talking the sawzall to this puppy- I am with Greg on that issue
)Thanks!
Rest in Peace
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
I have seen factory manuals (Chevy) where a repair procedure involved cutting something. But, not in the 928 WSM.
If I paid a shop or dealer to replace a part on one of my 928s and they cut a hole in the car you'd better believe I wouldn't just take it.
If a 928 was brought to me for an inspection I would, also, question where else corners were cut. Unless it was for a track car or for parting out, I wouldn't buy a 928 with holes cut in the "body in white."
If I paid a shop or dealer to replace a part on one of my 928s and they cut a hole in the car you'd better believe I wouldn't just take it.
If a 928 was brought to me for an inspection I would, also, question where else corners were cut. Unless it was for a track car or for parting out, I wouldn't buy a 928 with holes cut in the "body in white."
What are you referring to?
Rest in Peace
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
9 out of ten times when a fuel pump goes bad, they always fill them up to at least half to make sure it is not out of gas.
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
I've not done a CMC on an earlier car, but have done half-a-dozen or so on 87+. No problem getting the CMC out with the booster in place. (Well, once you have everything disconnected that is.)Is this something specific with removing the CMC with the rest of the hydraulics as a single unit? That I haven't done. Yet.
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
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From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
He probably stood there cackling and laughing while you cut holes in the car, and saying something about how if the car had a proper rogerbox, you wouldn't have to let out the foul humours.
Anyway - something added to the list of stuff to look for when I inspect my next 928. I'm with Greg, it'd put me off buying a car if I found that. I'd probably also go look under the carpets to see if there were holes for the shifter ball cup, rear coupler, brake bias valve and more.
I might also check to see if there was a previous owner with the name Kibort
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From: Friday Harbor, WA
Huh? I've not done a CMC on an earlier car, but have done half-a-dozen or so on 87+. No problem getting the CMC out with the booster in place. (Well, once you have everything disconnected that is.)
Is this something specific with removing the CMC with the rest of the hydraulics as a single unit? That I haven't done. Yet.
I've not done a CMC on an earlier car, but have done half-a-dozen or so on 87+. No problem getting the CMC out with the booster in place. (Well, once you have everything disconnected that is.)Is this something specific with removing the CMC with the rest of the hydraulics as a single unit? That I haven't done. Yet.
Thanks!
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
String of entrails. Nice. I like that.
What exactly limits movement of the CMC? Is it the still-attached hard line that limits how much you can wiggle the CMC?
IIRC didn't Stan (mmerlin) use the SOE approach with success?
What exactly limits movement of the CMC? Is it the still-attached hard line that limits how much you can wiggle the CMC?
IIRC didn't Stan (mmerlin) use the SOE approach with success?
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From: Friday Harbor, WA
I'll know more in the AM
Thanks!!
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
Dave, you thought this would work for later cars also, but the clutch-master can't get past the larger brake booster-- the boss for the infamous blue hose (IBH) hits the back of the booster before the pedal-end of the cylinder is thru the hole.
It is close, another few mm should do it. Will it work to simply loosen the four nuts securing the booster to gain some clearance, without disconnecting the hydraulics?
(And no, we are not talking the sawzall to this puppy- I am with Greg on that issue)
Thanks!
It is close, another few mm should do it. Will it work to simply loosen the four nuts securing the booster to gain some clearance, without disconnecting the hydraulics?
(And no, we are not talking the sawzall to this puppy- I am with Greg on that issue
)Thanks!
I don't really want to be a part of the debate of why or why not cut... suffice to say that I agree with you, Greg, Dave, etc.
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From: New Berlin, WI
The thing that interfered on my '86.0 was the sound / heat insulation, and yes, it was that stiff. A '68 Camaro with AC requires the front bumper be pulled for a heater motor replace. I know the shop I was in cut the fender liner for this repair. That fix could be seen, looked bad, but was completely non-structual. I'm a bit of a body guy and my little master cyl. repair is quite invisible from the fender side - with liner out. Structual adhesive and the piece is contoured. Of couse this limits its use as a later repair.