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Dread Blue Hose job

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Old 11-01-2009, 10:59 AM
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peter.scannell
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Default Dread Blue Hose job

AArrrggghhh! My clutch slave cyl was shot so I ordered a new one (3xs) only to discover somebody had brazed on a larger bullet connector. I ordered the new tube from Germany (didn't fit) re-bent, recut and shortened it. New master clutch cyl and new master brake cylinder. Removed everything up to the booster (except the blue hose). Put everything back together, bled the clutch assembly before installation. Reconnected MC etc and You know the rest of the story.

I have read two examples of how to replace the blue hose without taking the booster out. One with mirror and a flashlight and the other the back out the clutch master cyl until you can reach the hose. Anybody done this before I start to pull everything apart again. Or have a better idea?

Ok, thanks for the suggestions. I'm opposed to cutting because with my luck I'll "overfix it" and be really screwed. Since Frankenporsche was a junkyard dog, I'm trying to be nice to it. The mirror job sounds the most dubious unless you have hands like a little girl. I'm probably going to pull the MC, the booster and hope I can get around the brake pressure regulators, they were the hardest to reinstall after the Clutch master.

It only took me about 30 minutes to pull the MC, (scratch my newly painted) Booster, and the two GD pressure regulators. All the nuts were lubed so they came apart easily.........then with the CMC exposed I reached down and promptly broke the f#*!! plastic elbow..... $4.05 and two days from the dealer. Pet peeves, high stress parts made out of plastic and nuts that are too loose for a wrench, but too tight for your finger tips.

Last edited by peter.scannell; 11-03-2009 at 01:26 PM.
Old 11-01-2009, 11:07 AM
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ROG100
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Cut a hole in the fender.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:12 AM
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docmirror
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^^^^^^^^^^^ That's what I did. It's hidden by the inner fender liner when you're done. ^^^^^
Old 11-01-2009, 11:14 AM
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If you cut carefully you can cover up the hole with a larger cover and screw it in place for removal again for future surgery.
Old 11-01-2009, 11:18 AM
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Mrmerlin
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if you installed a new MC then you can carefully remove the fitting from the MC inlet once its out, then carefully remove the old blue hose.
Once thats done refit the new hose , it wont need any clamps and push it into the MC till it slide/snaps in then connect the other end to the MC reservoir.
If you replaced the other parts of the system why didnt you also replace the blue hose???
Good luck with this.
Cutting a hole into the fender can also be done about 2 1/2 in hole should work be careful so you dont damage the MC as the drill goes into the metal
Old 11-01-2009, 11:27 AM
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Fabio421
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It doesn't sound like your blue hose is bad unless your leaving something out. The blue hose just supplies fluid to your clutch master. It isn't under pressure under normal operation. If it's leaking then replace it. If not, leave it alone. The 928 clutch system can sometimes be a bear to blead. Do you have a motive power bleeder? If not, get one. It will make your life alot easier.
Old 11-01-2009, 11:46 AM
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Jadz928
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:56 AM
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blown 87
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I thought you folks were jesting about cutting a hole.

For crying out loud, don't cut cars up to make a repair a bit simpler.
I really did think you guys were kidding, but i guess not.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:08 PM
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remove the brake cylinder, change the blue hose and it will be fine for another 25 years.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:10 PM
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SeanR
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Damn Greg, Rog and I spent countless hours trying to get that thing back in w/o cutting on his '78. Finally he looked at me and said "cut the damn thing" and it only took 30 minutes after that hole was there.

I honestly can't see how to get it done w/o the hole.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:25 PM
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blown 87
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Damn Greg, Rog and I spent countless hours trying to get that thing back in w/o cutting on his '78. Finally he looked at me and said "cut the damn thing" and it only took 30 minutes after that hole was there.

I honestly can't see how to get it done w/o the hole.
Countless hours trying to get the hose in with the booster in, or with the booster out?
Old 11-01-2009, 12:30 PM
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Larry Velk
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The aluminum-faced sound/heat insulation can be such a problem that the accepted other methods won't work. The "hole", when done in a craftsman-like manner, can be an acceptable option. The insulation can be so stiff that you can't feed the unit up using the line.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:35 PM
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blown 87
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Originally Posted by Larry Velk
The aluminum-faced sound/heat insulation can be such a problem that the accepted other methods won't work. The "hole", when done in a craftsman-like manner, can be an acceptable option. The insulation can be so stiff that you can't feed the unit up using the line.
I guess we just differ on what is acceptable.

Like bending brackets that are in the way instead of taking them out, that is just one of the things I am picky about.

We just are not going to agree on this.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:38 PM
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SeanR
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Booster in. Original 8" booster that was dang near rusted in place.
Old 11-01-2009, 12:39 PM
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blown 87
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Booster in. Original 8" booster that was dang near rusted in place.
Oh, a rust bucket, now I understand.


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