OBehave

Richard,
I did a similar set up as George for my twinscrew track car but I made it and installed it under left front fender behind headlight. I vent directly from the oil filler block off plate and 2 ports in each valve cover in 2 separate hoses into the can which has a filter on top for vent. I also put some perforated baffling in there sothere isn't any splashin as I expected alot of oil. Surprising enough after a full track day an about 60 laps at 6000 rpm and 10lbs of boost I get maybe 1 tablespoon of oil in it.
Ed

jorj7

Richard,

Yes, they have internal baffling, so act as a separator also.

George
90 S4 Grand Prix White (Murf #5)
94 GTS 5-Speed Midnight Blue
06 Cayenne S Havanna/Sand Beige (PASM)
http://928.jorj7.com

blau928

Hi Ed,

Thanks for the note.. Another twin screw track car..! Interesting.. Seems like you have great ring seal, and with two cans there is enough room for venting the crankcase..

As I am running a vac pump that pulls 22" I wanted to be a bit careful as I was forcing the PV200 to the limit without shimming the vent cap spring.

Are you using a Keel/similar kit? or one of Dave Roberts' setups..?

Best,

blau928

Ok, so here are some pics of the work from today....

I made the new coolant hoses and installed them using Goodridge reusable fittings. Goodridge thinks I am their best friend, but my wallet tells me it is dying from abuse....

Anyway, pics in order:

1. Driver's side engine bay looking to the passenger side. You can see the new coolant lines installed, and the PV 400 tucked up against the radiator and the air intake. The hood closes with no issues, so the dry fit is a success. Tomorrow I will be making the bracket for the PV400 and mounting it securely as it is just being held in place by touching the hoses now. The open port on the PV will get a filter until I decide if I should route it to the intake or cam covers for a fully closed system. (I need to run the setup first and see if there are any bugs etc. then decide..)

2. Front of engine bay looking into the engine compartment. You can see that the oil dipstick and the 12+ terminal are accessible. The Blower idler pulley and drive area are open so when I install the SC unit it will still clear. (The oil filler neck is going bye bye, and I will have a custom filler tube instead.)

3. Passenger side to driver's side for perspective. You can see the steering reservoir, which is hiding the oil coolers behind it.

4. Directly over the PV400 looking down at it. The cover to extract the filter comes off once I remove the air intake duct, and the oil drain on the bottom is tied into the sump same as the PV200 was when that was mounted. You are unable to see it, but the inlet fitting from the Vac pump is below the hoses with the new black and silver fittings screwed to the radiator. If you look closely, you can see the screw head of one of the clamps on the inlet port next to the coolant line.

Also keep in mind that the area where the oil filler neck is now located will be cleaned up after the blower is installed. The fuel rails will be different with a different feed from a "Y" fitting, and the mini coolant hose will be routed in a cleaner path with a straight fitting to the port on the 90 degree elbow. The 1 way valve (Brass cylinder thingy) with the looped hose will be replaced with a smaller unit that takes up less space so it can be routed without the loop.

Have a great evening... The elves charged overtime for today...

blau928

Ok, as promised, here are the pics of the PV400 installed in the engine compartment with a filter on the outlet (for the moment) where the old airpump filter used to be.

As of today, it all fits, clears everything, and the engine was up to 5000 RPM with no issues.. (Still breaking in a new timing belt, so I am taking it a bit easy for the first 1000kM. After the break in, I will redline it and see if there is oil all over the place...!)

I may attach another clip to the unit at the lower level, just in case it edges out of alignment if I hit a pothole, or a bad freeway expansion joint etc.. as I would not want the casing to be burned by the vac pump belt spinning closeby.. (The car has Toyo 888's and 600/400 springs with Konis so it's a little harsh on the freeway. I wish the rebound on the Konis was much more to control the springs.. That's another project...)

Anyway, so far, no issues, no oil smell, or inconsistencies with the unit. I will be opening the cover in a week or two and examining what happened inside.

I forgot to take a pic of the undertray I made with vents in it, and installed as well. (It covers the huge crash guard I had made and installed as I kept ripping off the plastic front spoilers...)

I can post that tomorrow as it's already dark here. Still need to make my chin splitter and get to the belly pans so it can all be closed up like when it left the factory....

I think it's time to sell the slightly used PV 200 for $100 shipped anywhere in the USA and call it done...

If anyone wants it, please send a PM/email.. I'll be listing it soon here in a separate post as well.

Thanks,

Tony

nice...but don't crowd the back of the radiator too much, you're going to need that airflow.

blau928

Hi Tony,

Thx for the note..

The rad is not crowded even if it appears that way. There is a single 3000 CFM Spal 16" Extreme fan behind it, and there are also vents that open when the fans are off to let air out. See the pic attached of the back of the rad. (It now has the PV400 instead of the 200 in the pic, but all the rubber flaps open with the PV400 installed. C&R made this rad for me years ago to my exact spec with the flaps for exactly these reasons..)

In addition, the AWIC coolers have TWO 12" 1200 CFM Spal fans pulling on the condenser and shrouded to the AWIC rads.. (All controlled by the stock fan controller.)

Car has not crossed the upper white line yet, and it's been in 30+ C weather.. (Granted not at full load yet, but at 70% + load per the ST logs with coolant at 90+ Deg C and no bad issues to date.) This is also without the additional ducting and closing off the underside by the chin splitter I have yet to build... However, I am mindful of the temps and am logging all ST values to see what is happening..

There is also a low pressure vent I fabricated on my crash guard cover that seems to be working as far as I can tell.. Pixx attached of the underside cover of the crash guard.. Due to the shape of the cover, there should be a low pressure zone just at the vents whereby the hot air in the engine compartment is pulled out by the passing airflow underneath the vehicle. (Think inverted wing with lift generating edge having the vents so the lift draws the hot air from inside the wing area.) I know you're a pilot and get it, the explanation is really for the others on the forum..

You can also see the crash guard and the AWIC rad fittings awaiting connection to the water lines. They are AN-12 on the rads, (covered with blue protective caps) which will be fitted with AN-8 adapters so the lines from each head goes to its individual AWIC rad (one per bank) then back to a "Y" fitting and one AN-12 line back to the tank. This is all run with a 20 GPM Meziere electric pump on the rear of the car.

Still lots to do, but I expect to have an ABS 3D printed intake runner next week to review. I will be posting pics once I have it..

Cheers,

blau928

3d printer was out of service this week, so it looks like next week to make some models...

But, this little box showed up in the mail, and I will be very busy for a long time to come anyway. I spent several hours making a pinout in excel after rearranging the inputs and outputs to fit as much as I can on the ECU. I wish I had a bunch of additional open channels, but I don't, so I am debating a dash logger with input/output functions, but that's not happening for a bit, as there are other things to spend $$ on first and get the new setup running and driving.

The plan is to splice into the factory harness for certain things like the AC activation, Transmission Protection Switch, Idle Speed Drop and maybe the Cam Sensor, Crank Sensor, and Knock Sensors.

I also plan to use the stock LH relay to power the new ECU, the EZK relay to power Ignition Expander Module, Traction Control Multiplexer and Knock control module. I'll be building the new harness out to the engine bay for everything else like injectors, COP triggers, Coils, Throttle Pos, Lambda (O2), a bunch of temp sensors (The plan is one air temp sensor per bank of cylinders, one temp sensor per bank for the intercooler liquid, as well as a transmission temp sensor) and pressure sensors (MAP, Oil & Fuel).

51 of the wires on the two plugs in the pic have to go into the little round Mil Spec connector on the upper right of the pic, and be taped with Capton and heat shrinked in a 90 degree boot... (I need to call the elves again to use their little fingers...)

I'll be losing the parcel shelf below the glovebox, as the ECU and knock control module will live there. But, it was easier and better than mounting all the boxes on the kick panel where the LH and EZK lived due to the size of the new components. I will be keeping the stock LH and EZK wiring on board in case I need to revert to stock for any purpose.

Sorry if I am rambling......

BC

I have also been working on the excel files for pin outs and will be moving into stringing the actual loom out. No original wiring will be in the car, so its a fresh start as a positive.

When you really think about it, the car just has to start, run, turn off, and have lights that switch in different ways - the rest is electronic.

How many pins does your ECU have?

How will you be looming the power wires and circuits for the 5V vs the 12 V parts of the loom?

Will you run all the sensor wires into a separate milspec?

blau928

Hi Brendan,

My ECU has one 55pin Mil Spec Connector, and one 10 pin Mil Spec connector. The 55pin is for ECU function, and the 10 pin is for ECU comms with the PC (RS232), and also has a flying lead for the dash logger.

The Ignition Expander only uses 1 pin on the ECU, and so does the Traction Control Multiplexer, so this has helped to save a lot of space for other things. The dual injectors per cylinder leads will be spliced together at the termination end.

All the ignition leads run from the Ignition expander and knock control module, and this will require a separate harness to the bosch 4 channel igniters in the engine bay, and another harness to the COP coils. (But that's easy, as I can use the power and ground from the old coils for the bosch module as it grounds the coils to fire, and the coil power can be from the original coil power lead as well.) The knock sensors may be wired from the EZK harness to the knock controller instead of to the sensors as the wiring seemed in good shape when I last looked.

The Traction control box will need a harness of its own unless I can tap into the ABS harness inside the car. I still have not confirmed I can use the stock ABS circuit as of yet, so I may have to do a separate harness to run additional ABS sensors for the traction control, or have no ABS when the traction control is on. (Still researching this...)

The main power on the ECU will be to the LH relay lead in the LH harness, and ground will be directly to the engine block, or I can alternatively use the LH ground pin as well. I want to keep the ECU, Fuel Pump, Ignition boxes, Coils etc on the stock relay and fuse panel, as it is easy to do this, and also the circuit is already there inside the car.

The ECU has two separate power outputs, 8V for cam and crank sensor, and 5V pinouts to run things like all the temp and pressure sensors. Everything goes into the 55pin Mil Spec connector from the ECU, and I will break out as needed once through the firewall. There are 5-7 pinouts that will be spliced into the LH/ECU harnesses as the signals will be needed from there (Trans Protect Switch, A/C Request in and out, Idle speed drop, 12V Power, maybe Cam sensor, maybe Crank sensor.) I will be running everything else from the 55pin through the firewall and terminating it at the sensor.

Depending on the purpose, some wires will be twisted pair, and the cam and crank use separate shielded leads. Many power leads for pull to ground items are already spliced into the main lead, or connect to the 55pin connector with the ECU directing power or ground as neccessary via internal circuitry.

All wires are 18 AWG tefzel mil spec wires, and I have the special crimp tools for solid pin and open barrel connectors as well. The main power and ground are 12 AWG tefzel mil spec, and each splice is with a raychem splice and DR25 heat shrink so no contamination likely.

Based on the run and function, I will group the wires and place in a heat shrink tube to the termination end. I will try to use DR25 on the connector end where possible, but may just have some from heat shrink sleeve to the connector boot if the sensor plug comes with a boot. (Most of the Bosch connectors do come with such a boot, and it seals pretty well against the fire resistant sleeving etc.)

I want to keep it simple, but make it as factory looking as possible. Therefore this will take me a while, as I also need to make allocations for harness loops to secure to the body etc. etc... In addition, I really don't want to have wiring problems, as it will drive me nuts....

I expect to do a bulkhead rubber grommet with a pass through for the harness instead of a mil spec bulkhead connector. However, I will cross that bridge when I get to it. However, it may end up that I use the bulkhead connector once I get that close, as I would just have to wire in a 55pin or smaller bulkhead connector, and I have all the tools to do it properly. I will also make a closed cell foam plug for the LH and EZK plugs and seal and tie them out of the way while running the Motec.

On another note, a 5 speed has less wiring to run than an Automatic. If I were starting with no factory harness, then I would to a fuse panel and relays for items that I needed, and throw everything else out. On a race car, there would be no A/C, no radio, no cruise, nothing that was not a sensor, power, or ground cable. However, I want to have some cake, and lots of other stuff as well, so I am doing the next best thing to a plug and play harness...! I thought of doing the ECU 55 pin to a Bosch 35 pin LH plug and an EZK plug, and plugging right in, but I chose to build certain parts of the harness from scratch and keep some original bits in use. To make the plug and play, I would have to get an old LH and EZK, desoder the connectors from the control units, wire stuff to the the connector, then figure a way to seal it up so it would not be contaminated with moisture while not straining the wiring leads sodered to the connector pins etc etc. Too much work...... This way, if I need to pull off all the SC stuff I will have two choices, run the engine with the Motec in N/A form, or reconnect the LH harness bits to the motor, and plug in the LH and EZK and go.

Hope that the explanation helps, I attached the pic so it could hopefully make more sense if the words are a bit lengthy.

Best Regards,

blau928

My Lambda meter finally showed up today..... Now I can get a clue to what is happening with air and fuel.. I went with a professional lab grade unit as I want good data in the log files......

Still working on 3D printing the casting mould pieces and some full scale bits to model/mock up etc... The 3D printers I am using are very finicky, and have twice not done what I need properly... Anyway, I'm doing another print this weekend so we shall see..

blau928

Soooooo,

The 3D printer finally made something I can say is a decent solid plastic model, so I thought to share with the tank here.. My avatar shows where it goes in the system.

It is a full scale dual injector per cylinder runner with actual EV16 injectors mounted in the block. Various angles, and no the fuel rail is not connected, but that is the least of my headaches...

There is "Raft" or support plastic material on bits of the part, but that is fine, as it will be sanded off on the production piece, and this is only a full scale test to see what I designed in the CAD program.

For a first run print, I am very happy. I will be doing some jigging, and then once satisfied, I'll be making a mould to cast these in ALU. I will probably make some more bits in plastic, and will be of course machining the rest on a CNC, as I now have access to a machine, and software to generate the G-Code from my CAD models..

Enjoy the view... Happy Saturday

ptuomov

Very interesting. How much pressure would they hold?

blau928

Hi Tuomo,

The plastic shown is PLA, and not too strong, so maybe 1 bar pressure. ABS could do maybe 1.5 bar or even 2 bar. (However, there are maximum temperature issues that concern me, so this will only be used as a mockup as it won't take the heat soak per the MSDS and spec sheet.)

The Accura bluestone composite I would like to do can do about 5 bar easily, has high shear properties, and also has high temperature resistance so it's very interesting. (Used in F1 cars quite a bit for pump housings and other parts)

In cast aluminum, the engine will be destroyed before the limit of the material is ever compromised. (The wall thickness of the block is a minimum of about 6mm in the thinnest area.)

I am most likely going to cast a set in aluminum until the composite costs come down in future. However, in a few years, I can then remake everything in composite, and save a LOT of weight without paying for a new Ferrari F12.

I also have a CAD file of a single injector block that I will 3D print just for giggles. I'll post a pic once I get it printed. Maybe I can also cast a set of single injector blocks, as it is all modular and fits to the system the same as the dual injector blocks.

Regards,

Speedtoys

I need to come visit you at TS sometime soon..Im a member, just travel too much.