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I'll be interested to hear what you find. I'm also curios to hear whether pulling back on the turn lever does anything, either with the headlights on or off. The explanation in the owner's manual sounds a bit suspect(under "Headlight Dimmer Flasher") as far as flashing the high beams during daytime, but mine didn't even flash them with the low beams on.
My 86.5 will flash the lights by pulling back the turn signal if the key is in the ignition and turned to at least the first click. My 968 will do the same but it doesn't need the keys.
My 86.5 will flash the lights by pulling back the turn signal if the key is in the ignition and turned to at least the first click. My 968 will do the same but it doesn't need the keys.
Apparently by 86.5 they remembered to put the wire in the harness to make that work. In '78, on #0853 at least, they forgot.
I have no data regarding when they fixed this, which is why I'm asking questions.
From your description of the issue it sounds like the steering wheel bearings. On a bet, I can almost tell you how the damage occurred. The same way it happened to mine while being transported. Some individual got in to the car and held (yanked) on to the wheel while adjusting the seat. Then as he got out he again used the steering wheel as the lever to raise himself out of the car. When I loaded my car in DC, the steering wheel had no play and no rubbing sound. I saw them unload the car and watched the horror unfold in front of me as a 6'3" 240lber got in and out of the car using the steering wheel as a lift.
Just my hypothesis. However, it is an easy and inexpensive fix. Good luck.
Took the wheel off, and I think I'm ok as to the bearings. There is no play in the wheel at all - it is rock solid. I think it is a rubbing from behind at the horn contact (it is exactly like your picture above Dave). The wheel lock used probably pushed the wheel in too far caused interference. I think I can see where the rubbing is occuring on the plastic. More to follow later (need dinner and a break).
Removed the horn wipe and the scraping and the sound went away. Evidently the shop's use of the steering wheel lock affected the alignment of the various pod pieces and the fit of the steering wheel parts onto the shaft. I'll tweak it up, put it back together, and should be good to go. I'll use that candle wax trick too
Hello Ed,
Just read your post - Glad you found the source of the rubbing. I would also get a rubbing sound when I did not have the signal/wiper/cruise cluster properly positioned on the steering column (too close to the steering wheel and the scraping sound would result - I believe from too much pressure on the horn contact).
I also observed the alignment tech when I had my first alignment done and they used the "Club" type device which is attached to the brake pedal and the steering wheel. It appears to be "clamped" in place by exerting pressure between the brake pedal and steering wheel in order to hold the steering wheel centered for the toe adjustment. I never liked the idea of pressure being applied to the steering wheel like that so I bought the steering rack centering bolt that the WSM recommends to center the steering rack right after my first alignment. It's tool number 9132 and part number 000.721.913.20. I got mine from 928 Specialists for about $9. Now, I insist the alignment tech use the centering bolt rather than apply pressure on the steering wheel when alignments are performed. I found one alignment tech at Sears that I use regularly on all our 928s and he knows I always bring the centering bolt with me. Here's a couple of pics if you have not seen one.
Good luck with the repair - let us know how it works out.
To determine if the upper steering column bearing is going bad simply grasp the wheel and move it up and down side to side and then in and out do you feel any play???
If play is detected then you need a new upper bearing, use a vacuum cleaner to remove the parts/***** as they will otherwise drop down the column housing.
To remove the E clip pull on the steering colunm nut while a helper slides it off the shaft.
To install, first locate the new bearing paying attention to the flat edge on the new part once this is tapped into place then slide the tensioner bushing on, then fit the nut , with your helper pull the shaft up while you then slide on the E clip
If no play is detected then remove the lower cover of the steering column and then look up to see how much the horn contact is touching the steering wheel, then if if is smashing the horn contact the switch can be adjusted down away from the steering wheel.
Take a business card and slide it into the gap between the upper column cover and the steering wheel see if there is space as this could also be part of the rubbing
I am resurecting this thread because I just had the same problem. It only began a couple of days ago but it was really loud and very bothersome. Stan's business card suggestion was very helpful. I slipped the card in as far as it could go and slid it around the column. This actually reduced the scraping sound a bit, so I figured I was on the right track. I removed the steering wheel as described and I found that the 32 year old grease had turned to a chewing gum consistency on the horn contacts. I suspect that this created enough friction that turning the steering wheel was causing the spring like contact to be displaced and rub against the hub plastic. Once I cleaned it up and greased it, the scraping was gone and the steering wheel turned more smoothly. Someone mentioned that this is a common problem and if it is due to old grease as mine was, then that is completely understandable. Thanks again for making this an easy fix.
Just an FYI - Though my steering wheel rubbing issues were from both bearings needing replacement but even scarier was the intermediate shaft on my 81 was press fit into the universal joint fitting and came loose and there was no safety pinch bolt there. This shaft was replaced in later years with a solid casting which prevents this from happening. Almost lost all steering because of this and was most likely the cause of the failed bearings. Was pretty hard to replace that piece.
Bump to an old thread. I’m having a similar issue and I know what’s causing the sound on my car, but I can’t figure out how to fix it. As you can see in the pics, there simply isn’t enough clearance between the pod and the rear steering wheel plastic cover. I see that one of the 10mm pods bolts (left side) is inserted into an oval slot that appears to allow for adjustment. But the right 10mm bolt doesn’t look like it has the same type of slot.
Thoughts on how to get just a bit of clearance? I can’t even get a business card in the gap as it currently stands....
10-15-2009, 06:49 PM
