928 at last

Hi All,
Yes I know I should have replaced during the TB/WP job but........
And the WSM isn't very informative.......
And search is not my friend today............

Question:
Is there a thread that details the replacement of the Hall sensor?
If not, what is the least painful way of going about this?
I know it's supposedly on the back of the passenger side cam drive backing plate, but not sure how far down, and I can't see it without starting to dissassemble things around the front lift point. (One of our favourite areas to muck around).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Abuse is anticipated
Thanks,

worf928

There is no painless way to do it.

One of many methods:

- remove lift loop from underneath
- disconnect air-pump hose from diverter valve and shove it down and out of your way.
- move, disconnect, etc. whatever else you need to so that you can get to the bolts (spark plug wires, front main harness, etc.)

The tool of choice is a long ball-ended Allan bit socket on a long extension.

If you are lucky, the lower bolt will not be occluded by the cam cover.

Your new sensor's harness will be slightly too short. Loosen the Phillips screw on the tiny clamp on the new sensor and get as much slack as you can. Put the connector into the bracket and then wind the sensor into place in the bracket. Connect the harness connector to the sensor/bracket assembly. Seat bracket. Tighten bolts.

A dab of RTV on the bolts will stick them to your tool of choice while you fiddle, fuddle, and swear.

Make sure you have the bracket/sensor assembly correctly seated before you tighten down the bolts. (It is possible to tighten all the bolts and not have the sensor seated correctly. It makes an "interesting" noise when you try to start the car...)

928 at last

Input appreciated.
I'll report back both on my success (or not) and on the expansion of my vocabulary.

Imo000

Instead of RTV to hold the bolt to the tool, use grease.

928 at last

Thanks Imre!
I've got lots of both.......like the grease idea.

worf928

Grease. RTV. Old pasta sauce. Whatever works.

But, I guarantee that if you drop on of those bolts you will never find it. See, there's a black hole between the block and the air-pump that eats bolts.

123

Meanwhile, somewhere on the other side of the universe, there's someone saying "Where the hell do all of these bolts on the floor keep coming from?"

ew928

Is there room under the hall sensor area to drap an aquarium net.
One of those wire/net gizmos for getting fishies out of the aquarium (for water changing, not eating)

So glad I've got air pump delete. Still doesn't make accessing the 2? bolts any easier.

JWise

Dave speaks the truth. Darn black hole got the bolt that holds down my front bracket for the plug wires.

Bill Ball

No problem. All you need to do is turn the car over and the bolts will fall out.

Mrmerlin

Note; Vacuum the carpets first......

Imo000

The only reason I suggested and prefer using grease is that it can't create a problem for when next time the bolt has to be removed. The RTV will set and could cause clearance issues when the bolt/nut has to be removed. Grease won't do that.

Lizard928

I dont know what all the fuss is about.

I have done this a few times and the hardest part is getting them to break free. Once they are free then they are easy to remove.

worf928

HALL Sensor. Not speed/impulse sender.

Lizard928

Dave,
I am talking about the hall sensor on the cam. I find the speed sensor for the crank FAR more of a pain as they don't like to come out of their hole easily.