CAM PULLEY COATINGS
#1
Racer
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CAM PULLEY COATINGS
first off i'm looking for two usable 32v cam pulleys if anyone has them . when i finally track them down, i understand they are aluminium and need that coating. is it a hard anodized coat or what is it exactly. just wondering what to ask the metal coating shop. also is the oil pump pulley aluminum? and since the crank timing gear is steel does that require the same coating? thanks in advance
#2
Three Wheelin'
first off i'm looking for two usable 32v cam pulleys if anyone has them . when i finally track them down, i understand they are aluminium and need that coating. is it a hard anodized coat or what is it exactly. just wondering what to ask the metal coating shop. also is the oil pump pulley aluminum? and since the crank timing gear is steel does that require the same coating? thanks in advance
oil pump gear, some are steel and some are aluminum. one of my oil pump gears was aluminum and it had the same coating and color as the aluminum cam gears. But the other engine I had, it was steel, dark gray color.put a magnet on it.
#3
Three Wheelin'
for coating, this is the only one Ive seen, usually they change them
http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/tbelt7.html
this person did have a T-belt failure, it may be of good help.
http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/tbelt7.html
this person did have a T-belt failure, it may be of good help.
#5
Nordschleife Master
The aluminium oil pump pulley was factory original - the steel one is a factory replacement part (not sure which year they introduced the steel part - there's a service bullein somewhere about replacing it).
When replacing the aluminum one with the steel one, make sure you leave the shim off too - the height of the boss in the center of the steel oil pump gear is different.
When replacing the aluminum one with the steel one, make sure you leave the shim off too - the height of the boss in the center of the steel oil pump gear is different.
#7
Archive Gatekeeper
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And if you're going to re-coat the cam gear, read posts 28-40 in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-updated.html
Cliff note: Make sure you remove the coating from the face of the gear that contacts the cam.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-updated.html
Cliff note: Make sure you remove the coating from the face of the gear that contacts the cam.
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#12
Supercharged
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On the red GT, I've got over 15k miles on my re-coated gears (on a supercharged motor) and so far all looks good (last inspected in the spring). After I get the '87 up and running, I plan on doing a TB inspection on the GT and will note the condition at that time.
If you are going to have this done, do not let the coater dip the gears in an acidic bath. The acid does not react well with the magnesium in the cam gears and will literally melt them.
If you are going to have this done, do not let the coater dip the gears in an acidic bath. The acid does not react well with the magnesium in the cam gears and will literally melt them.
#13
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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#14
Man of many SIGs
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On the red GT, I've got over 15k miles on my re-coated gears (on a supercharged motor) and so far all looks good (last inspected in the spring). After I get the '87 up and running, I plan on doing a TB inspection on the GT and will note the condition at that time.
If you are going to have this done, do not let the coater dip the gears in an acidic bath. The acid does not react well with the magnesium in the cam gears and will literally melt them.
If you are going to have this done, do not let the coater dip the gears in an acidic bath. The acid does not react well with the magnesium in the cam gears and will literally melt them.
#15
Rest in Peace
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That is a big gamble over 250 bucks worth of parts, if one fails it is going to be expensive.