hacker-pschorr

+1 and wear out the roller on the tensioner prematurely. Think about it, when the pump first started to hit the block, it was definitely adding resistance to the belt which put added pressure on the WP pulley and pulled on the tensioner.

I've seen Audi's with damaged water pumps (still spinning, just not smoothly) where the belt was shredding and every roller that contacted the belt looked like they had 200,000 miles on them. IMO Greg is lucky you guys took it apart before the timing belt snapped.

I still have my doubts the dealer did not do the work as listed on the repair order. When you take a belt that is spinning at these speeds and introduce a variable like a rough spinning or sticking water pump, other parts will be effected.

VehiGAZ

I'm not doubting your observation of course, it's just that I don't see a single scrape mark on the impeller in the photo. The last WP I saw that bored a block had blades that were shiny and worn down where they were scraping the block. Maybe it's just the angle in that particular picture, but I didn't see evidence of either.

Nevertheless, Goodspeed's challenge ion this situation is that the only fault in the work that is provable is the failed part and the damage it caused. You'll never be able to prove that the belt was or was not changed out. The tensioner gasket could have been replaced and then started leaking afterward. Your contention of "that's not what an idler pulley is supposed to look like" will carry the weight of a feather in court, unless you can establish yourself as an expert on the matter.

You should consider the possibility that the PO, faced with a failed WP and bored block, just told them, "Bury it" because he was done spending dealer money on the car and was going to get rid of it. If you find a curious lack of outrage or cooperation from both the PO and the dealer, that possibility may explain it.

The lesson learned is that even a documented maintenance record does not assure that a car is in good condition.

Good luck with it Goodspeed!!

goodspeed928

The lesson learned is that even a documented maintenance record does not assure that a car is in good condition.

You got that right!

svp928

I agree with Gaz- this will go nowhere in court. BUT- the damage can be repaired without pulling the engine, and get you back on the road with minimum drama- better to spend the time and $ fixing it, instead of beating your head against a wall 3000 miles away...Talk to Greg Brown, and keep an eye on the repair Greg Nettles is doing.
Good Luck

Steve

bronto

Dave, did the part numbers on the invoice match the part numbers on the car?

eatiles

This is the first reason I dont like to buy cars that show recently works done. specially a TB work on a 928, I preffer as soon I get the car doing it myself and this way I know that it have been done. So sad to heard about this.

danglerb

Without a LOT of cooperation from the PO I wonder if any recourse does exist?

Places I would complain at are Calif BAR and Porsche.
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/

I'd like to see this pursued at least to the point of an official response from PCNA about what happens when A Porsche water pump eats a block. If they blow it off, it means buying Porsche pumps is a waste of money.

goodspeed928

The car will be ok.
I will be on the road after a little break.
It will be one nicest !

Jim M.

+928 If Porsche rebuilds specify plastic impellers then why is this dealer using metal impellers? PCNA needs to respond to both questions.

goodspeed928

If the dealer has none is stock, they will use a metal one.

GregBBRD

Porsche sells rebuilt water pumps from the same supplier than Mark Anderson used to get his pumps from.

danglerb

The question is what will Porsche do about a defective pump that eats a block?

If the answer is nothing, then we should buy them from somebody else.

GregBBRD

You need to look at the block repair pieces Steve Hattori and I make for this problem. Restores this surface to "new". There's a couple of threads with this stuff pictured. For proper cooling the pump needs to be about .025" away from the block. That hole your pump chewed into the block is about .125" deep. The is no way that the engine will stay cool.

The tooling and the inserts are in Georgia. There's two more people waiting for it to come back, from there. Should be available by the end of this month?

greg brown

hacker-pschorr

Here you go:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ir-pieces.html

Tom. M

75 degree thermostat ...good to go....