I will replace the left cylinder head on my '88 (head was cracked and then repaired --weld-- but is now leaking) and any advices will be appreciate.

The plan is to remove the left head only with the engine in the car. I bought a used head and it is now at a machine shop. Intake refresh and TB/WP was done last winter so I intend to reuse most of the parts that was changed then except for the WP witch makes funny sounds....

Thanks for your help

 

I haven't removed either head (yet!) but after having the valve covers off this past season I can't believe the removal will be that difficult.
Given that, I'd be concerned as to how much room you have to clean up the block surface etc with engine in place. Others with more hands on experience will probably have better input.

I have a used Porsche WP in the garage..............~60k kms

 

make sure to drain the block before removing the head bolts

 

Hi Luc,
If the machine work to be done on your new head includes resurfacing, there are some implications if the final height is significantly lower than the height of the other head ..... perhaps to the point where both heads need to be cut identically: this is theoretical speculation - a good engine rebuilder can provide facts which I cannot.
Shaving a head ( or using a thinner headgasket that the other side) both increaces the CR and makes it different from the other side - perhaps of minor consquence. Dimensionally, for example, the water bridge likes to see equal mating surfaces ...... similarly, that equally applies to the intake plenum.

Anyway, just a thought ...

BTW, saw your ex - '87 S4 & met Steve at our annual PCA show & shine: nice S4!
BTW #2 ... my Carrera took 1st place this year .... guess I'll switch and enter the 928 next year

 

I have an '88 S4 that may need head removal as well. My impression was that you could not remove the heads without pulling the engine. Is this (hopefully) false, and the heads can be removed without puling the whole unit?

 

I removed the heads off the 1988 with the engine on a stand. It was a bugger. You need to remove the cams to get to the head bolts. I have a set of heads that does not need and has not had any welding done to them for $400.00 for the pair. They need some cleaning though.

 

Thanks for the offer but I ordered one from Roger.

 

Hi Garth,

The first report from the machine shop said that 10 thousandths was shaved. I don't know if that is enough to make a difference.

I will have more info when I go there to pick it up.

 

While I have not pulled heads in-car, I've pulled two motors apart. Do yourself a favor and get a good 3/4" drive breaker bar to loosen the head bolts - they are on frickin' tight, as in, my 1/2" impact wrench would not budge them. Also, you'll need a 3/4 to 1/2" drive adpater so you can use a 19 mm 1/2" drive socket- the M12 (19mm) head bolts are deep in the head and there's not much room in there for a big thick walled socket.

Disassembly is the reverse of assembly, loosen them in the reverse order of the tightening pattern (shown):

 

Pull the motor. You'll thank yourself later. I can't imagine doing this with the motor in the car. I'm sure people have done it, but I think the frustration you'd save would be worth it. After doing it myself and putting the motor back in, I'd totally pull it again if I needed to pull a head off.

You'll be irritated when you find out how easy an intake R&R is when the motor is on the floor before you start. I pulled my motor with everything in place, except the AC and power steering were disconnected.

I used a 1/2 drive and a 5 foot (!) breaker bar. You need good space and leverage to get those things out.

Check the WSM specs on the limits for machine work. There are two sets of head gaskets, thin and thick, depending on how much you took off. You also risk some mis-match from the water-bridge and possible leaks there due to how it fits.

If you need a clutch, now's the time!!

 

+1 on pulling the engine.

Also loosing the cam cap bolts without stripping the triple sq. bolt heads can be bit of a challange.

https://rennlist.com/forums/6184607-post13.html

Might be wise to go ahead and order a few cam cap bolts for the install.

You also might need a bolt extractor set. I think I got mine at Home Depot.

 

I pulled both heads off on my S4 with the engine in the car. the only problem I had doing this was loosening some of the bolts that hold the cam in place which may be difficult to torque down later on. Im talking about the ones close to the shock mount.
I end up taking the engine out bcause of #8 cylinder wall being cracked open.
If you have a friend to help, pulling the engine is not hard.

 

I did not break or strip any of the cam cap bolts. I attribute that success to having the motor out so I could get all the angles perfect, and have the space to give each one a good whack with the xzn bit before I started. I can't imagine the pain of breaking one and having to drill it with the motor in the car. I'd probably have a stroke from rising blood pressure.